Simple Steps: How To Fix A Leaking Kitchen Faucet

Can I fix a leaking kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you can fix a leaking kitchen faucet yourself with some basic tools and simple steps. Many common leaks are due to worn-out parts like washers or cartridges, which are easy to replace.

Fixing a leaky faucet saves water and money. It also stops that annoying drip, drip, drip sound. This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step. We will cover different faucet types. We want to help you successfully stop kitchen sink dripping.

Preparation: The Essential First Steps

Before grabbing any tools, you must prepare. Taking these simple steps first prevents messes and water damage.

Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most crucial step. You must turn off the water supply lines leading to the faucet.

Locate the Shut-Off Valves: Look under the sink. You should see two small valves, usually chrome. One is for hot water, and one is for cold water.
Turn Them Off: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. Do not overtighten them.
Test the Faucet: Turn on the faucet handles above the sink. Let any remaining water drain out. If water still flows strongly, you need to find the main water shut-off for your house and turn it off there.

Gather Your Tools

Having the right tools makes the job much easier. You don’t need specialized plumbing equipment for most repairs.

Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Pliers (needle-nose often help)
Hex keys (Allen wrenches) – often needed for modern handles
Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
White vinegar (for cleaning mineral deposits)
Towel or rag
Plumber’s putty (sometimes needed, but less common for internal parts)

Tip: Keep the small parts organized. Use a small bowl or a magnetic tray so you don’t lose screws or springs.

Deciphering Your Faucet Type

Faucets look different, but they usually fall into one of four main categories. The way you fix a leak depends on what kind you have.

Compression Faucets (Two Handles): These are older styles. They rely on rubber washers to stop the flow. They are prone to leaks, often needing a replace faucet washer job.
Ball Faucets (Single Handle): Common in older kitchens. They use a rotating metal or plastic ball to control flow. These can be tricky to fix.
Cartridge Faucets (Single or Two Handles): These use a self-contained cartridge to control water. Leaks often mean a leaky faucet cartridge replacement.
Ceramic Disc Faucets (Single or Two Handles): The newest and most durable type. They use two ceramic discs. If these leak, you usually replace the entire disc unit.

Fixing Leaks in Two-Handle Faucets (Compression Style)

If you have two handles that you tighten down to stop the water, this section is for you. A leak here usually means you need a two handle faucet leak fix.

Locating the Problem

The leak usually happens in one of two places: around the spout base or right out of the spout tip (a constant drip).

Repairing a Spout Drip (Compression Faucets)

This is the most common issue and points directly to a worn-out seal. This is a classic dripping faucet repair.

Remove the Handle: Pop off the decorative cap (it usually says H or C). Unscrew the handle screw underneath. Lift the handle off.
Access the Stem: You will see a packing nut holding the stem in place. Use an adjustable wrench to carefully unscrew this nut.
Remove the Stem Assembly: Twist and pull the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body.
Replace the Washer: At the bottom of the stem, you will find a small screw holding the rubber washer in place. Remove the screw. Take off the old washer. It is likely cracked or flattened.
Install New Washer: Put on a new washer of the exact same size. Secure it with the screw. If the leak was around the handle base (not the spout tip), you might also need to replace faucet washer material around the stem threads (packing material).
Reassemble: Put the stem back in, tighten the packing nut, reattach the handle, and turn the water back on slowly to check your work.

If the stem itself is pitted or damaged, you may need a faucet valve replacement for that side.

Addressing Single Handle Faucet Issues

Single handle faucet repair often involves dealing with cartridges or ball mechanisms.

Cartridge Faucet Leak Repair

Cartridge faucets are known for being reliable, but when they fail, replacing the cartridge fixes the problem quickly.

Remove the Handle: Find the set screw that holds the handle on. This is often hidden under a small plastic plug or on the side/back of the handle base. Use a small hex key or screwdriver to loosen this screw. Pull the handle off.
Remove the Retaining Clip/Nut: Look at the top of the faucet body. You might see a decorative cap or a retaining nut holding the cartridge down. Remove this part. Some cartridges are held by a small brass clip. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull this clip straight up.
Pull Out the Cartridge: The cartridge sits inside the faucet body. It might have tabs that line up with slots in the faucet body. Gently rock the cartridge side to side while pulling straight up. Sometimes a specialized cartridge puller tool is needed if it is stuck, but often you can grip the top stem with pliers.
Install the New Cartridge: Take the old cartridge to the store to ensure you get an exact match. Check the orientation—make sure the tabs or alignment marks line up perfectly with the faucet body slots. Push the new cartridge down firmly until it seats correctly.
Reassemble: Replace the retaining clip or nut, put the handle back on, and secure the set screw.

This process is the standard for leaky faucet cartridge replacement.

Ball Faucet Repair (If Applicable)

Ball faucets are complex due to many small parts. If your fix running kitchen tap involves this type, be meticulous.

Disassembly: Remove the handle screw and the handle. Unscrew the cap or dome surrounding the ball mechanism using adjustable pliers, protecting the finish with a rag.
Remove Parts: Lift out the cam assembly, the packing, and the plastic or metal control ball.
Inspect Seals and Springs: Beneath the ball, you will find two small rubber seats and springs. These wear out quickly and cause drips. Remove them carefully.
Replace Seals and Springs: Install new springs (narrow end down) and place the new rubber seats over them.
Reassemble: Place the ball back in, making sure its slot aligns with the pin in the faucet body. Put the cam assembly on top, making sure the slot on the cam lines up with the tab on the faucet body. Screw the cap back on. Do not overtighten.

Dealing with Spout Base Leaks and Noises

If water leaks out from the base of the spout (where it meets the sink deck) or if you have a noisy faucet repair situation, the issue is usually O-rings or the cartridge seat.

Spout Base Leaks (Swiveling Spouts)

When a spout swivels, it relies on O-rings inside the base to keep water sealed inside the spout assembly.

Remove the Spout: On many models, you must first remove the handle and cartridge assembly to access the spout base. On pull-down spray head models, the spout might lift straight up once the handle mechanism is removed.
Locate O-Rings: Examine the base of the spout housing. You will see one or two rubber O-rings wrapped around the metal tube.
Replace O-Rings: Carefully cut or roll off the old O-rings. Clean the area thoroughly. Lubricate the new O-rings with silicone faucet grease (this helps them seal and prevents future noise). Slide the new rings into place.
Reassemble and Test: Put the spout back on, ensuring it seats properly over the seals.

Addressing Faucet Noise (Whining or Humming)

A noisy faucet repair is often linked to high water pressure or worn internal parts.

Worn Washers/Cartridges: If the noise happens when the water is running, it often means the seal material is vibrating against the metal seat. Replacing the internal mechanism (washer, cartridge, or ball seats) usually solves this.
High Water Pressure: If the noise is a general hum throughout the house when you run the faucet, your home’s water pressure might be too high. You may need a pressure regulator installed on your main water line, which usually requires a professional plumber.

Faucet Valve Replacement: When Parts are Too Damaged

Sometimes, the brass or plastic housing where the washer or cartridge sits—the valve seat—gets corroded or pitted. This prevents a good seal, even with a brand-new washer.

How to Replace the Valve Seat

This applies mostly to older compression faucets but is relevant for faucet valve replacement in any style where the internal housing is damaged.

Access the Seat: After removing the stem (as described in the compression section), look down into the faucet body hole. You might see the old valve seat.
Use a Seat Wrench: Plumbers use a specific tool called a seat wrench. It has splines that fit into the seat, allowing you to grip and unscrew it.
Remove and Install: Carefully unscrew the old seat. Take the old seat with you to buy an exact match. Screw the new seat into place firmly, but do not strip the threads.

Using Plumber’s Putty for Sealing

When do you need plumber putty faucet applications? Putty is used primarily for sealing connections where two solid surfaces meet the sink deck, not for internal water seals.

When to Use Putty: Use it under the base plate (escutcheon) of a new faucet or around the bottom lip of a drain flange assembly. It creates a waterproof seal between the fixture and the sink surface.
When NOT to Use Putty: Do not use putty inside the working parts of the faucet (like around cartridges or washers). For internal seals, use silicone grease or the provided rubber gaskets/O-rings.

Note on Silicone Caulk: Some modern installers prefer silicone caulk over plumber’s putty for its durability, especially around fixtures exposed to lots of moisture.

Reassembly and Testing

Once you have replaced the faulty part (washer, cartridge, or O-rings), reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Take your time.

Lubricate Moving Parts: Apply a light coat of non-toxic plumber’s silicone grease to all O-rings, threads, and moving plastic parts of the cartridge. This helps smooth operation and extends the life of the new parts.
Tighten Carefully: When screwing handles or packing nuts back on, tighten them until they are snug. Overtightening is a common cause of future leaks or broken handles.
Slow Water Turn-On: Go back under the sink. Turn the hot and cold water valves on very slowly. Listen for any immediate rushing sounds.
Test Operation: Operate the faucet handle(s) through their full range of motion (full cold, full hot, mixed). Let the water run for a few minutes.
Check for Leaks: Look closely under the sink at the supply connections. Look around the faucet base where it meets the sink deck. Finally, check the spout for any residual drips.

If you followed the steps for dripping faucet repair correctly, the dripping should have stopped. If the leak persists at the spout, you may have missed an internal seat or need to adjust the tightness of the handle mechanism.

Troubleshooting Common Faucet Issues After Repair

If you still have problems, review these common mistakes.

Symptom	Likely Cause	Quick Fix Check
Water flows weakly after repair.	Aerator is clogged or handle not fully open.	Unscrew the aerator at the spout tip and clean it. Ensure the handle moves fully.
Faucet leaks from under the handle base.	Packing nut is loose, or O-rings on the stem are damaged.	Tighten the packing nut slightly. If that fails, disassemble and replace stem O-rings.
Water flow is erratic or surging.	Air trapped in the lines or faulty cartridge alignment.	Turn water off completely, then slowly turn back on. Ensure the cartridge is seated correctly.
Handle is very stiff to turn.	Too much grease or overtightened retaining nut/cap.	Loosen the retaining nut slightly, or clean off excess grease from the cartridge stem.

Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Leaks

Preventative care is cheaper than frequent repairs. Keep your faucet running smoothly for years with these habits.

Clean the Aerator Regularly: Mineral deposits build up inside the screen at the tip of the spout. Unscrew it every few months, soak it in vinegar, and scrub it clean. This helps maintain flow and reduces strain on the internal parts.
Avoid Hard Closing: Teach everyone in the house not to slam the handles shut. Excessive force damages washers and cartridges rapidly.
Inspect O-Rings Every Few Years: If you notice a slight weep or sound near the spout base, preemptively replace the O-rings before a major leak occurs.
Handle Hard Water Deposits: If you have very hard water, wipe the faucet surfaces often. Mineral buildup can sometimes work its way into the cartridge mechanism, causing premature failure.

By following these guidelines, you should be able to handle most common leaks yourself, whether you are performing a dripping faucet repair on an old model or a leaky faucet cartridge replacement on a modern one.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long should a faucet cartridge last?

A high-quality ceramic disc cartridge can last 10 to 20 years. Lower-quality cartridges or those exposed to very hard water may only last 3 to 5 years before needing a leaky faucet cartridge replacement.

Do I need to use plumber’s putty if my faucet has gaskets?

If your faucet came with rubber gaskets or O-rings designed to seal the connection to the sink deck, you generally do not need plumber’s putty. The gaskets do the sealing job. Putty is best reserved for sealing drain flanges or sometimes the base plate of faucets that lack adequate rubber seals.

What is the difference between a washer and a cartridge?

A washer is a simple, flat piece of rubber used in older compression faucets. It gets compressed against a valve seat to stop water flow. A cartridge is a complete, self-contained unit that moves up and down or rotates inside the faucet body to mix and control the water flow. It often contains small O-rings or seals internally.

Why does my faucet leak only when the dishwasher or washing machine runs?

This usually means the water pressure in your home spikes when high-demand appliances turn on. This surge can push past a weak seal in your faucet. While replacing the washer or cartridge might temporarily help, the real solution is often installing or repairing a pressure reducing valve (PRV) on your main water line.

Can I use regular grease on my faucet parts?

No. You should only use silicone faucet grease, sometimes called plumber’s silicone grease. Standard petroleum-based grease can break down rubber parts like O-rings and washers, causing them to swell or disintegrate faster. Silicone grease is safe for rubber and plastic components.