Step-by-Step: How Do You Change A Kitchen Sink Faucet

Yes, you can absolutely change a kitchen sink faucet yourself with some basic tools and a clear plan. This guide walks you through the entire process, from taking out the old unit to installing the new one properly.

Preparing for Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement

Changing your kitchen faucet might seem like a big job. It is not, though, if you take it one step at a time. Good prep work saves time and headaches later on. This section helps you gather what you need before you start to remove old kitchen faucet.

Gathering Necessary Tools and Materials

Before you begin any kitchen faucet replacement, make sure all your supplies are ready. Having everything close by makes the job much smoother.

Tool/Material	Purpose	Notes
Adjustable Wrench	For tightening and loosening nuts.	Essential for supply lines.
Basin Wrench	Reaches tight spots under the sink.	This tool is a lifesaver for mounting nuts.
Pliers (Channel Lock)	Gripping larger fittings.	Helps hold things steady.
Safety Glasses	Protects your eyes from drips and debris.	Always wear these!
Bucket and Towels	Catches water that spills out.	Sinks hold residual water.
Headlamp or Flashlight	Visibility under the sink is poor.	You need good light down there.
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk	Sealing a new faucet base.	Check your new faucet instructions for which to use.
New Faucet Unit	The star of the show!	Make sure it fits your sink hole configuration.
Utility Knife or Scraper	Removing old sealant.	Useful for cleanup.

Choosing the Right New Faucet

When you install new sink faucet, you must match the new unit to your existing sink holes. Most sinks have one, two, three, or four holes.

One Hole: Simple installation, often for modern pull-down sprayers.
Three Holes: Common setup. If your new faucet only uses one hole, you will use an optional base plate (escutcheon) to cover the extra holes.
Four Holes: Usually includes a separate sprayer or soap dispenser.

Check the box of your new faucet. It should say if it comes with an escutcheon plate for three-hole sinks.

Phase 1: Taking Out the Old Fixture

The first major part of the kitchen faucet installation guide is getting the old one out. This often takes more time than putting the new one in. Work slowly and safely.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

Safety first! You must stop the water flow before touching any lines.

Locate Shutoff Valves: Look directly under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves attached to the pipes coming up from the floor or wall—one for hot water (usually red or marked ‘H’) and one for cold water (usually blue or marked ‘C’).
Turn Off the Water: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. Do not overtighten them.
Verify: Turn on the old faucet handles above the sink. A little water might drip out, but the main flow should stop. This confirms the disconnect hot and cold water lines preparation is complete.
Drain Remaining Water: Leave the faucet handles open. This relieves any pressure trapped in the lines.

Clearing Out Under the Sink

The space under the sink is usually cramped and dark. Clear everything out. Tools, cleaning supplies, and garbage bins go away for now. Place your bucket and towels directly under the connections you will be working on.

Disconnecting the Water Lines

This is where you disconnect hot and cold water lines. You need the adjustable wrench for this step.

Identify Supply Lines: These are the flexible hoses running from the shutoff valves up to the bottom of the faucet body.
Loosen Connections: Place the wrench onto the coupling nut where the supply line meets the shutoff valve. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen. Be ready! Some water will drain out of the line when you loosen the first connection. This is why the bucket is essential.
Detach Faucet Lines: Repeat this process for both the hot and cold lines where they connect directly to the old faucet shank. You might need pliers or a basin wrench if the nuts are corroded or hard to reach.

Removing the Old Faucet Mounting Hardware

The faucet is held onto the sink deck by one or more mounting nuts underneath. These nuts are often difficult to access. This is where the basin wrench shines.

Locate Mounting Nuts: Look up past the supply lines to find the large nuts threaded onto the faucet shanks holding the faucet in place.
Use the Basin Wrench: Fit the jaw of your basin wrench onto the nut. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to loosen the nuts. If they are stuck, use penetrating oil and wait ten minutes before trying again.
Remove Sprayer/Soap Dispensers (If Applicable): If your old unit had a separate side sprayer or soap dispenser, remove its hose connection underneath and then unthread its mounting nut.

Lifting Out the Old Faucet

Once all the lines and mounting nuts are off, the faucet should lift right out from the top of the sink. You may need to wiggle it a bit if sealant has glued it down.

Lift Carefully: Pull the old faucet straight up.
Clean the Sink Deck: Scrape away any old plumber’s putty, silicone, or mineral deposits left behind on the sink surface. Use the scraper or utility knife carefully so you do not scratch the sink finish. A clean surface is vital for sealing a new faucet base later.

Phase 2: Installing the New Fixture

Now we move to the plumbing for kitchen sink faucet setup with your shiny new unit. Always refer to the specific instructions that came with your new faucet, as designs vary greatly.

Preparing the New Faucet

Many modern faucets come mostly assembled. You might need to attach the sprayer hose or connect faucet supply lines before you put the unit into the sink opening.

Attach Supply Lines (If Separate): If your new faucet did not come with lines already attached, screw the new flexible supply lines onto the threaded inlets on the faucet body now, while you still have good access. Hand-tighten first, then give a slight turn with the wrench—do not over-tighten plumbing connections in plastic parts.
Apply Sealant: This step is crucial for waterproofing. Check your manual. Some faucets use a rubber gasket only. If yours requires it, apply a thin rope of plumber’s putty or a bead of silicone caulk around the base plate (escutcheon) or directly under the faucet base if no plate is used. This ensures good sealing a new faucet base.

Placing the Faucet in the Sink Hole(s)

Insert Through Holes: Carefully thread the faucet shanks and supply lines down through the designated hole(s) in the sink deck.
Position Correctly: Make sure the faucet is straight and facing the intended direction (usually centered over the sink basin). If you used putty or caulk, press down firmly but gently to set the seal.

Securing the Faucet from Below

This is the reverse of removing the old hardware.

Install Mounting Hardware: From underneath, slide the provided rubber gasket, metal washer, and finally the large mounting nut(s) up onto the faucet shanks.
Hand Tighten First: Thread the mounting nut(s) by hand until they catch.
Tighten Faucet Mounting Nuts: Use your basin wrench or the special plastic tool provided with the faucet to tighten faucet mounting nuts. Tighten them evenly until the faucet is snug and does not wobble. Stop tightening when you feel firm resistance; excessive force can crack the sink or damage the faucet base.
Final Alignment Check: Go topside. Check that the faucet is perfectly straight. If it moved while you were tightening below, you might need to loosen the nut slightly, adjust the faucet, and then re-tighten.

Installing Sprayers or Accessories (If Applicable)

If you have a separate side sprayer:

Place the sprayer head into its designated hole.
From underneath, slide on the washer and thread the mounting nut onto the sprayer base. Tighten this securely.
Attach the sprayer hose to the quick-connect fitting or threaded port underneath the main faucet body, following the manufacturer’s steps.

Phase 3: Final Plumbing Connections and Testing

With the faucet physically mounted, the final stage involves connecting the water supply and testing for leaks. This completes the plumbing for kitchen sink faucet setup.

Connecting the Water Supply Lines

It is time to connect faucet supply lines to the shutoff valves.

Match Lines: Ensure the hot supply line from the faucet connects to the hot water valve, and the cold line connects to the cold valve. Color coding or ‘H’ and ‘C’ markings help immensely.
Thread Connections: Carefully thread the coupling nuts of the supply lines onto the threads of the shutoff valves. Start threading by hand to prevent cross-threading (damaging the threads).
Tighten Connections: Once hand-tight, use your adjustable wrench to gently tighten the nuts about a quarter to a half turn more. They need to be tight enough to seal but not so tight that you damage the internal washers.

Connecting the Drain Line (If Applicable)

If you replaced the entire faucet assembly, including the drain stopper linkage, follow these steps:

Align Linkage: Connect the lift rod from the faucet body to the pivot rod coming from the drain flange in the sink. This usually involves a small clevis strap with holes.
Adjust for Proper Seal: Adjust the linkage so that when the lift rod is pulled up, the stopper seals completely in the drain opening. You may need to bend the metal strap slightly.

Testing for Leaks

This is the moment of truth for your kitchen faucet installation guide.

Prepare for Leaks: Put the bucket back under the connections, and keep your towels handy.
Turn Water On Slowly: Go back under the sink. Very slowly, turn the hot and cold shutoff valves counter-clockwise to restore water flow. Listen for any hissing sounds.
Initial Check: Wait a minute. Look closely at every connection you touched: the valve connections and the connections to the faucet body. If you see dripping, turn the water off immediately and slightly tighten the leaking connection.
Test Faucet Operation: Turn on the new faucet, testing both hot and cold water at full pressure. Let the water run for several minutes. This helps clear any debris from the new lines.
Final Inspection: While the water is running, inspect all connections one last time. Check the area around the base where you performed sealing a new faucet base for any seepage. If everything is dry after five minutes of running water, you have succeeded in your kitchen faucet replacement!

Maintaining Your New Kitchen Tap

Once you successfully replace kitchen tap, a little ongoing care helps it last longer.

Regular Cleaning

Wipe down the faucet daily with a soft cloth. Avoid harsh abrasive cleaners, especially on finishes like brushed nickel or matte black. For mineral deposits, use a mixture of white vinegar and water applied with a soft sponge.

Checking Connections Annually

Once a year, look under the sink. Gently check the tightness of the tighten faucet mounting nuts and the supply line connections. Vibration from daily use can sometimes loosen these fittings slightly over time.

Aerator Care

The tip of your faucet (the aerator) mixes air into the water flow. If the pressure drops, the aerator might be clogged.

Unscrew the tip of the faucet counter-clockwise.
Soak the small screen inside in white vinegar to dissolve mineral buildup.
Rinse and screw it back on tightly.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it usually take to change a kitchen sink faucet?

For a moderately handy person who has all tools ready, the total time to remove old kitchen faucet and install new sink faucet is typically between one and three hours. The hardest part is usually removing the old, stuck nuts.

What if the new faucet doesn’t fit the old holes?

If your new faucet requires fewer holes than you have, you must use the base plate (escutcheon) provided with the new unit to cover the extra openings. If the new faucet requires more holes than you have (rare, but possible for very specialized units), you may need to consult a countertop professional to drill new holes, which requires specialized diamond bits.

Can I reuse the old water supply lines?

It is strongly recommended that you do not reuse old supply lines when you replace kitchen tap. Old lines can weaken, leading to leaks later. Most new faucets come with new lines, or you should purchase new, high-quality braided stainless steel lines rated for the correct pressure.

Why is there still water under the sink after I shut off the valves?

Water trapped in the pipes between the shutoff valve and the faucet will drain out when you open the old faucet handles. This is normal. The bucket catches this residual water when you first disconnect hot and cold water lines.

My mounting nuts are rusted solid. What should I do?

If you cannot loosen the old nuts to remove old kitchen faucet, use a penetrating oil like WD-40 or PB Blaster. Spray it liberally onto the threads of the nuts and let it soak for 15–30 minutes. You might also try using a mini hacksaw blade (carefully!) to cut a slot into the side of the nut if there is room, or use a small plumbing torch (very cautiously, avoiding plastic or rubber nearby) to heat the nut briefly, which can help break the rust bond.