Yes, you can hang upper kitchen cabinets yourself by following a clear, step-by-step process that focuses heavily on precise measuring and secure securing upper kitchen cabinets to studs. This cabinet installation guide breaks down the job so even a beginner can successfully complete the mounting upper kitchen cabinets task.
The process of installing wall cabinets kitchen might seem daunting, but with the right plan, the right tools for hanging kitchen cabinets, and patience, it becomes manageable. We will cover everything from checking your tools to the final adjustments for perfect alignment.
Preparing for Cabinet Installation: The Crucial First Steps
Good preparation prevents major headaches later. Rushing this stage is the quickest way to end up with crooked or unsafe cabinets.
Essential Tools and Materials Checklist
Before you start, make sure you have everything ready. Having all your kitchen cabinet hanging hardware accessible saves time.
| Tool Category | Item | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Measuring & Marking | Tape Measure | Accurate distance checks. |
| Pencil (Sharp) | Marking stud locations. | |
| Level (4-foot recommended) | Ensuring plumb and level lines. | |
| Chalk Line or Laser Level | Creating clear, straight reference lines. | |
| Fastening | Stud Finder | Locating wall studs accurately. |
| Power Drill/Driver | Pre-drilling and driving screws. | |
| Long, heavy-duty structural screws (3-inch or longer) | Fixing kitchen cabinets to wall securely. | |
| Clamps or Cabinet Jacks | Temporarily holding cabinets in place. | |
| Safety & Support | Safety Glasses | Protecting your eyes. |
| Sturdy Ladder | Safe access to upper areas. | |
| Cabinet Preparation | Shims (Wood or Plastic) | For minor adjustments and leveling and mounting wall cabinets. |
Measuring the Space
Accurate measurements are vital. Measure twice, cut (or drill) once.
Determining Cabinet Height Placement
Upper cabinets usually sit above the countertop. Standard practice dictates a 17 to 20-inch gap between the countertop and the bottom of the upper cabinets.
- Measure Countertop Height: Standard height is 36 inches from the finished floor.
- Decide on Gap: If you choose an 18-inch gap (common for standard 34.5-inch base cabinets), your bottom cabinet edge needs to sit at $36″ + 18″ = 54″$ from the floor.
- Mark the Bottom Line: Use your tape measure and pencil to mark this height (54 inches) on the wall where the first cabinet will sit. Repeat this mark every 16 or 24 inches across the entire wall section where cabinets will go.
Finding and Marking Wall Studs
This is the most critical step for safely securing upper kitchen cabinets to studs. Cabinets are heavy, especially when loaded with dishes. Drywall alone cannot support them safely.
- Locate Stud Centers: Use your stud finder. Mark the edges of each stud you find.
- Confirm Studs: Drill a small pilot hole through your pencil mark in the center of the stud area to confirm you hit solid wood.
- Draw the Layout Line: Use a long level or a chalk line to draw a straight, horizontal line connecting the center marks of the studs. This line should align with the height you marked in the previous step, representing the bottom of your upper cabinets. For best practice, also draw a light centerline where the cabinet edges will sit.
Preparing the Cabinets
Most cabinets come with mounting rails or holes. If not, you may need to add wood strips (cleats) to the back to aid in mounting upper kitchen cabinets.
- Check Cabinet Depth: Measure the depth of your base cabinets. Upper cabinets should typically be flush with the front edge of the base cabinets or slightly recessed (by about 1 inch).
- Locate Mounting Holes: Drill pilot holes inside the cabinet where the mounting screws will pass through the rail or back panel. These holes should be slightly larger than the shank of your mounting screws to allow for minor adjustments during leveling and mounting wall cabinets.
The Hanging Process: Step-by-Step Installation
The best way to hang upper cabinets involves starting at a corner or at the highest focal point and working outward.
Step 1: Installing the First Cabinet (The Anchor Point)
Choose the cabinet you want to hang first. Usually, this is the one next to a doorway or the one that defines the end of a cabinet run.
- Set Up Support: Position your cabinet jacks or use temporary scrap wood supports set at your determined height (e.g., 54 inches).
- Lift and Position: Carefully lift the first cabinet. Rest the bottom edge of the cabinet onto your supports so that the top edge is level with your layout lines. Check that the cabinet sides align with your penciled centerlines on the wall.
- Check for Level and Plumb: Place the 4-foot level on the top edge (to check level) and the side edge (to check plumb, or perfectly vertical). Make small adjustments using shims between the back of the cabinet and the wall if necessary.
Step 2: Securing the First Cabinet Firmly
Now, you must affix the cabinet securely. Remember, you are attaching upper cabinets to drywall is not enough; you must hit those studs.
- Pre-drill Wall Holes: Using the pilot holes you drilled in the cabinet back as a guide, pre-drill holes through the cabinet and into the wall studs. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than your mounting screws.
- Drive the Screws: Insert your long structural screws (3 inches or longer) through the pre-drilled holes in the cabinet rail and into the studs.
- Tighten Gradually: Drive the screws until they are snug. Do not overtighten yet. Check your level one last time. If the cabinet shifts when you tighten, you need longer screws or better stud identification.
Step 3: Connecting Adjacent Cabinets
This step ensures a seamless look between units. You are now mounting upper kitchen cabinets side-by-side.
- Place the Next Cabinet: Bring the second cabinet up next to the first. Rest it on the supports.
- Align and Clamp: Ensure the tops and bottoms are perfectly flush. Use heavy-duty clamps to hold the two cabinet faces tightly together. Adjusting the height slightly might be necessary to match the first cabinet perfectly.
- Drill Cabinet-to-Cabinet Holes: Inside the cabinet box, usually near the top and bottom rear corners, drill pilot holes through the side panels of both cabinets. These holes should be about 1 inch from the back edge and 1 inch from the top/bottom edges.
- Join Them: Drive short, sturdy cabinet screws (usually 1.5 to 2 inches long) through these holes to join the boxes together. This creates one solid unit.
Step 4: Leveling and Mounting Wall Cabinets for the Run
Continue this process, adding cabinets one by one, clamping them to the last installed cabinet, and screwing them together internally before fixing kitchen cabinets to wall.
- Check Level on the Run: After securing the second cabinet to the wall studs, use the level across the tops of both cabinets to ensure the entire run remains level. Minor shifts in the wall can cause slight dips. If necessary, use shims behind the cabinet rail where it meets the wall to push it up slightly before driving the final screws.
Step 5: Final Tightening and Verification
Once all cabinets in the section are attached to each other and secured to the wall studs:
- Final Screw Tightening: Go back and firmly tighten all the structural screws attaching the cabinets to the studs. Be firm but stop just before the wood starts to compress excessively.
- Check for Gaps: Inspect all seams where cabinets meet. If you see gaps, loosen the screws slightly, use a shim to close the gap, and retighten.
Advanced Installation Techniques and Common Issues
Successful installation often requires finesse, especially when dealing with walls that aren’t perfectly flat.
Dealing with Uneven Walls
Walls in older homes rarely offer a perfectly flat surface for installing wall cabinets kitchen. If you skip this step, your cabinet doors will look crooked when closed.
Shim Placement Strategy
Shims are your best friend for leveling and mounting wall cabinets.
- Function: Shims fill the void between the back of the cabinet and the wall.
- Where to Place: Place shims directly behind where your mounting screws will enter the studs. If the wall bows outward near the center of the cabinet but is straight at the studs, use shims only where you anchor into the studs. This allows the cabinet to “float” securely against the solid parts of the wall.
- Avoid Over-shimming: Do not use so many shims that you push the cabinet away from the stud completely. The screw must penetrate the stud for security.
Using Cabinet Hanging Hardware (Cleats)
While many modern cabinets have integrated rails, some DIY projects or older cabinets benefit greatly from using a separate kitchen cabinet hanging hardware cleat system.
- What is a Cleat? A cleat is a strip of wood (often 1×3 lumber) screwed directly and levelly into the wall studs.
- Installation: Mount the cleat first, ensuring it is perfectly level and positioned so that the top edge corresponds to the top of the cabinets, or the bottom edge corresponds to the bottom, depending on your cabinet design.
- Hanging: The cabinet then rests or hooks onto this cleat. This method allows one person to hang the cabinet onto the cleat, and then another person can drive the mounting screws from inside the cabinet through the rail and into the cleat/stud. This is often cited as the best way to hang upper cabinets for ease of temporary support.
Attaching Upper Cabinets to Drywall (When Studs Aren’t Available)
In very rare situations, a specific mounting point might fall between studs. Attaching upper cabinets to drywall requires heavy-duty anchors, but this method is generally not recommended for the primary support of heavy upper cabinets.
If you absolutely must rely on drywall anchors:
- Use toggle bolts or heavy-duty self-drilling metal anchors rated for at least 50 lbs each.
- Since cabinets share weight, you must calculate the total weight and distribute the load across multiple anchors.
- Crucially: If you use anchors, the cabinet must be braced underneath (e.g., by a support jack) at all times. The primary security must always come from screws driven into studs.
Finalizing the Installation and Adjustments
Once the cabinets are physically attached, the final steps ensure they look professional.
Checking for Square and Flushness
After mounting upper kitchen cabinets, ensure the entire run looks perfect before screwing down permanently.
- Side Gaps: Check the vertical joints between cabinets. If you have a gap, use a cabinet screw to pull the cabinets tighter. If the screw doesn’t close the gap, you may have uneven shimming or a slightly warped cabinet side.
- Top Gaps: Use your level across the top run again. If a cabinet dips, loosen the screws slightly, insert a shim under the high side’s rail if it dips toward the wall, or use a jack underneath to lift the low side slightly before re-tightening.
Installing Trim and Light Railing
Once the main boxes are secure, you can add decorative elements.
- Crown Molding: This attaches to the very top edge of the cabinet boxes.
- Light Railing: This piece attaches to the underside front edge and is used to hide under-cabinet lighting strips.
These elements are typically attached using small finishing nails or specialized clips, as they do not bear structural load.
Door and Drawer Adjustments
If you installed new cabinets, the doors and drawers will almost certainly need adjustment to hang straight and close perfectly.
Modern European-style hinges (which most new cabinets use) have three adjustment screws:
- In/Out Screw: Moves the door closer to or farther from the cabinet frame.
- Side-to-Side Screw: Moves the door left or right to align vertical gaps.
- Up/Down Screw (Often on the mounting plate): Adjusts the height of the door relative to its neighbor.
Take your time with these adjustments. Small turns make a big difference in achieving that seamless, professional look that defines a great kitchen installation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is the standard distance between the countertop and the upper cabinets?
A: The standard distance, which allows comfortable working room and space for small appliances, is typically 18 inches. However, some installers prefer 17 inches or go up to 20 inches depending on the height of the user or if specific large appliances need clearance.
Q: Can I use only drywall anchors for mounting upper kitchen cabinets?
A: No. Never rely solely on drywall anchors for primary support. Upper cabinets become very heavy when loaded. You must locate and utilize wall studs for securing upper kitchen cabinets to studs using long structural screws. Drywall anchors should only be used for very light objects or as supplemental support in areas where studs are inaccessible.
Q: What are the best tools for hanging kitchen cabinets for a single person?
A: For a solo installer, cabinet jacks (sometimes called cabinet lifters or supports) are essential. These tools lift the heavy box into position and hold it steady against the wall, freeing both hands to check levels and drive the initial screws for fixing kitchen cabinets to wall. A laser level is also extremely helpful for marking consistent lines across a long run without constantly resetting a spirit level.
Q: How far apart should the screws be when fixing kitchen cabinets to wall?
A: Screws should generally be placed so that there is at least one screw driven into a stud for every 16 to 24 inches of cabinet width. Ensure that the cabinet rail or mounting surface has pilot holes pre-drilled into the areas corresponding to the studs you located. Always aim for at least two mounting points per cabinet if the cabinet spans two studs.