Why Is My Kitchen Faucet Dripping? Easy Fixes

A dripping kitchen faucet is almost always caused by worn-out internal parts like washers, O-rings, or cartridges that no longer seal water flow completely. Fixing a leaky faucet repair is often a simple DIY job that saves water and stops that annoying faucet dripping noise.

That steady drip, drip, drip coming from your kitchen sink is more than just irritating; it wastes a lot of water and can increase your water bill. Many people think they need a plumber right away for a leaky faucet repair, but often, the solution is quite simple. This guide will help you figure out how to stop faucet drip yourself, covering the most common plumbing leak causes and providing easy steps for kitchen sink repair. We will explore what causes the leak, how to identify your faucet type, and the specific steps for fixing it, whether you need a washer replacement or a cartridge replacement. We will also touch upon how these issues might relate to low water pressure faucet scenarios.

Pinpointing the Source of the Drip

Before you can fix the drip, you need to know where it is coming from. A leak can originate in a few places: the spout (the most common), the base of the handle, or under the sink.

Spout Drips: The Most Common Problem

When water drips steadily from the end of the faucet spout, the problem lies within the mechanism that controls the water flow inside the faucet body. This mechanism depends heavily on the type of faucet you have.

Handle Leaks: When Water Escapes Around the Handle

If water seeps out from around the handle when the water is running, the issue is usually with the seals or packing nuts inside the handle assembly. These seals keep the water contained within the faucet body.

Base Leaks: Problems at the Bottom

If water pools around the base of the faucet, the issue might be with the seals or gaskets where the faucet connects to the sink deck, or it could be a leak in the supply lines underneath.

Faucet Types: Knowing What You Have

Different faucets use different internal parts. Trying to fix a disk faucet with parts meant for a compression faucet will not work. Knowing your faucet type is crucial for getting the right replacement parts, such as a correct O-ring replacement.

There are four main types of kitchen faucets:

Faucet Type	How It Works	Key Components That Fail
Compression	Uses rubber washers compressed against a valve seat to stop water flow.	Washers and valve seats.
Cartridge	Uses a movable cartridge, which can be a rotating stem or cylinder, to control flow.	The cartridge unit itself.
Ball	Uses a slotted metal or plastic ball to regulate water flow and mix hot/cold water. (Common in older single-handle faucets).	Ball assembly, springs, and rubber seats.
Ceramic Disc	Uses two durable ceramic discs that slide against each other to open or close the water path.	The ceramic disc cartridge unit.

Preparation: Essential Steps Before Any Repair

No matter the faucet type, the first steps for any kitchen sink repair involving a leak are the same. Safety and preparation prevent further mess or damage.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

This is the most critical step. You must shut off the water to the faucet before attempting any disassembly.

Look under the sink cabinet. You will find two small shut-off valves attached to the hot and cold supply lines leading up to the faucet.
Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This shuts off the water supply to the faucet.
Turn the faucet handle on fully to drain any remaining water pressure from the lines. This ensures the area is safe to work on.

Step 2: Protect Your Sink

A sink full of tools and small screws is a nightmare.

Place a towel or rag inside the sink basin to catch dropped parts.
If your sink is enamel or delicate, consider placing a plastic barrier over the drain opening to prevent losing small components like screws or O-rings down the drain.

Step 3: Gather Your Tools

You will need basic plumbing tools for most repairs:

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Pliers (needle-nose are often helpful)
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Hex keys (Allen wrenches, often needed for modern single-handle faucets)
Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
Penetrating oil (if parts are stuck)

Repairing a Compression Faucet Leak

Compression faucets are the oldest and most straightforward design, but they often need the most maintenance because rubber parts wear out quickly. If you have a compression faucet, your primary fix will involve a washer replacement.

Fixing a Drip from the Spout (Compression Faucet)

The drip happens because the rubber washer at the base of the stem assembly is flattened or cracked, failing to seal against the valve seat when the handle is off.

Disassembling the Handle

Pry off the decorative cap (often marked H or C) on top of the handle using a flathead screwdriver.
Unscrew the handle screw revealed underneath the cap. Remove the handle.
You will see the packing nut holding the stem assembly in place. Use an adjustable wrench to carefully loosen and remove the packing nut. Turn counter-clockwise.
Pull the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body.

Replacing the Washer and Seat

At the bottom tip of the stem assembly, you will find the screw holding the rubber washer in place. Unscrew it and remove the old, flattened washer. This is the source of your drip.
Install the new washer. Ensure it matches the size and shape of the old one perfectly. Tighten the screw holding the washer.
Inspect the valve seat—the brass fitting inside the faucet body where the stem pushes the washer down. If the seat is rough or pitted, the new washer will wear out quickly. You might need a specialized tool called a valve seat grinder or a replacement seat to ensure a smooth seal.

Reassembly and Testing

Replace the stem assembly, tighten the packing nut, and reattach the handle.
Slowly turn the water supply valves back on under the sink.
Test the faucet. If the drip persists, the valve seat likely needs replacing, or the new washer is the wrong size.

Repairing a Cartridge Faucet Leak

Cartridge faucets, common in modern single-handle sinks, are generally more reliable. If this faucet leaks, you usually need a cartridge replacement. These cartridges regulate both volume and temperature.

Fixing a Drip from the Spout (Cartridge Faucet)

A leak means the internal seals or the cartridge body itself has failed.

Accessing the Cartridge

Look for a small set screw, often located under the handle, usually requiring a hex key (Allen wrench). Loosen this screw and lift the handle off.
You may see a decorative dome or cap covering the cartridge. Remove it.
The cartridge is usually held in place by a retainer clip (a small metal pin or U-shaped clip) or a brass retaining nut. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull out the retaining clip, or unscrew the nut.
Pull the cartridge straight up and out. You may need to wiggle it gently or use a specialized cartridge puller tool if it is stuck.

Replacing the Cartridge

Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to ensure you buy an exact match. Faucet brands use proprietary designs.
Before inserting the new cartridge, check the area for any mineral buildup.
Insert the new cartridge, making sure the orientation marks (usually tabs or notches) align perfectly with the faucet body slots. If the cartridge is installed crooked, it will leak immediately or fail to control temperature correctly.
Secure the retainer clip or nut, reattach the cap, and put the handle back on.

Tip for Fixing Running Faucet Issues: If you have trouble getting the water to shut off completely (a fix running faucet situation), ensuring the cartridge is seated correctly is the key. A misaligned cartridge cannot create a proper seal.

Repairing a Ball Faucet Leak

Ball faucets are complex, featuring many small parts. They often leak from the spout or around the base of the handle. Fixing these usually requires replacing several small components, including springs and seals, or replacing the entire ball assembly.

Fixing a Leak in a Ball Faucet

Remove the handle screw and lift off the handle.
Unscrew the cap or collar covering the rotating ball mechanism.
Lift out the cam, washer, and the slotted ball assembly.
Inside the faucet body, you will see small rubber seats resting on springs. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully remove these old springs and seats. These are common failure points leading to leaks and issues with low water pressure faucet performance if clogged.
Replace the springs and seats with new ones, ensuring the small ends of the springs face down into the faucet body.
Reinsert the ball, ensuring the slot aligns with the pin inside the faucet body.
Place the cam and washer over the ball, ensuring the tab on the cam fits into the notch in the faucet body.
Reassemble the collar and handle. You will need to tighten the collar firmly but gently to adjust the tension on the ball assembly—too loose causes leaks; too tight makes the handle stiff.

Repairing a Ceramic Disc Faucet Leak

These faucets are very reliable because ceramic discs are hard and don’t wear down like rubber washers. When they leak, it’s usually due to debris caught between the discs or a cracked cartridge housing.

Fixing a Leak in a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Turn off the water supply and remove the handle (similar process to the cartridge faucet).
Remove the escutcheon cap.
The disc cylinder (cartridge) is usually secured by screws or a retaining nut. Remove these fasteners.
Lift out the cylinder. Inspect the inlet and outlet ports.
If the seal is bad, you might be able to replace the seals around the base of the cylinder if they are replaceable.
More often, you must replace the entire ceramic disc cartridge unit. As with ball faucets, take the old one to match it precisely.
Insert the new cylinder, ensuring the inlet/outlet holes line up correctly with the water inlets in the faucet body.
Secure the assembly and reattach the handle.

Dealing with Leaks at the Handle Base: O-Ring Replacement

If water is not coming from the spout but is seeping out around the base of the handle, the likely culprit is a worn-out O-ring replacement is needed. O-rings act as seals around the moving parts, like the stem or cartridge.

This applies mostly to compression, ball, and cartridge faucets.

The O-Ring Replacement Process

Follow the initial disassembly steps for your faucet type to expose the stem or cartridge assembly.
Once you remove the stem or cartridge, examine the exterior surfaces where rubber rings are located. These are the O-rings. They might look cracked, flattened, or brittle.
Carefully use a small flathead screwdriver or awl to roll the old O-rings off their grooves. Be gentle to avoid scratching the metal body.
Clean the grooves thoroughly. Mineral deposits often cling here.
Lubricate the new O-rings lightly with plumber’s silicone grease (this helps them slide on and preserves the rubber).
Roll the new O-rings into place. They should fit snugly but not be stretched too tight.
Reassemble the faucet. The new seals should stop the water from escaping around the handle when running.

Addressing Low Water Pressure Faucet Issues Alongside Drips

Sometimes, a constant drip is accompanied by low water pressure faucet performance when the tap is turned on. These problems can be related.

A clogged aerator at the tip of the spout is a common cause of low pressure, but internal clogs can also be responsible.

Cleaning the Aerator

The aerator is the screen device screwed onto the very end of the spout. It mixes air with the water stream to create a smooth flow.

Unscrew the aerator, usually by hand or with pliers (wrap the jaws of the pliers with tape to prevent scratching the chrome).
Disassemble the small screen components.
Soak all the small parts in a bowl of white vinegar for several hours to dissolve mineral deposits (calcium and lime).
Rinse thoroughly and reassemble.

If cleaning the aerator doesn’t fix the low pressure, the blockage might be inside the faucet body or the supply lines, possibly caused by debris loosened during a recent repair attempt or aging pipe corrosion. If the blockage is deep inside, you might need to flush the supply lines after shutting off the water.

Advanced Checks: Valve Seats and Supply Lines

If you have replaced all the seals, washers, and O-rings, and the faucet still drips, you must investigate the surfaces the seals press against.

Inspecting and Servicing the Valve Seat

For compression faucets, the valve seat is crucial. If this brass fitting inside the faucet body is pitted or damaged, no rubber washer will seal properly, leading to a constant drip.

Cleaning: Sometimes, you can clean the seat gently with fine steel wool or a specific valve seat wrench designed to smooth out minor imperfections.
Replacement: If cleaning fails, the valve seat must be removed and replaced. This requires a special valve seat removal tool that grips the seat threads internally so you can unscrew it.

Checking Under the Sink

If you hear dripping but water isn’t coming from the spout, check the connections below the sink.

Ensure the coupling nuts connecting the faucet tailpieces to the supply lines are tight. Do not overtighten, as this can crack plastic components.
Check the supply line hoses themselves for cracks or wear, especially where they connect to the shut-off valves. If hoses look worn or bulging, they need replacement to prevent a burst pipe. This is critical for preventing major flooding.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While many leaks are manageable DIY projects, there are times when it is best to call for professional help.

Faucets Stuck or Corroded: If components are so seized with mineral buildup or corrosion that you cannot remove them without extreme force, forcing them might break the faucet body or the pipes leading to it.
Leaks Inside Walls: If you trace the leak and find moisture or dripping coming from behind the wall, this is a major structural plumbing issue requiring immediate professional attention.
Complex or Expensive Faucets: High-end, sensor-activated, or touch-on faucets often have complex electronic components. Attempting internal repairs on these can void warranties and lead to costly errors.
Inability to Shut Off Water: If the shut-off valves under the sink are old and refuse to close, you will need a plumber to shut off the main water line to the house and replace those valves before you can proceed with the fix running faucet repair.

Summary of Dripping Faucet Causes

Here is a quick reference chart summarizing the main reasons your faucet might be dripping, depending on the style:

Faucet Type	Primary Dripping Cause	Common Fix
Compression	Worn rubber washer	Washer replacement
Compression	Eroded valve seat	Valve seat grinding or replacement
Cartridge	Worn seals or cracked cartridge body	Cartridge replacement
Ball Type	Worn springs, seats, or ball assembly	Full seal/spring kit replacement
Ceramic Disc	Damaged inlet/outlet seals or disc misalignment	Cartridge replacement or seal replacement
All Types	Loose packing nut or bonnet nut	Tighten nut slightly

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long should a faucet repair take?

For basic fixes like a washer replacement or O-ring replacement on a standard faucet, an experienced DIYer can take 30 minutes to an hour. If you need to source a specific cartridge replacement or deal with stuck parts, it can easily take several hours or require a return trip to the hardware store.

Can a dripping faucet cause damage besides a high water bill?

Yes. Constant dripping can lead to mineral buildup (scale) inside the faucet components, making future leaky faucet repair harder. If the drip occurs at the base, constant moisture can also damage the countertop or sink cabinet over time.

Why does my faucet drip only when the hot water is on?

This usually indicates an issue specifically with the hot water side sealing mechanism. In compression faucets, the hot water washer is likely worn out. In cartridge or ball faucets, the seals or O-rings associated with the hot water path within that specific assembly are failing.

Do I need to replace the entire faucet if it’s dripping?

No, not usually. Most modern faucets are designed for repairability through component replacement (cartridge, washer, O-ring). Only replace the whole unit if the body is cracked or if replacement parts are unavailable or prohibitively expensive, which is rare for standard models. Addressing the drip promptly is key to extending the life of your existing fixture.