DIY Fix: How To Stop A Dripping Kitchen Faucet

Yes, you can absolutely stop a dripping kitchen faucet yourself! Most common faucet drips happen because of worn-out parts inside the handle, usually a washer or a cartridge. Fixing a leaking kitchen tap is a common DIY job that saves water and money. This guide will walk you through the steps for repairing a dripping faucet based on the type of faucet you have.

Why Kitchen Faucets Drip

A steady drip might seem small, but it wastes a surprising amount of water over time. A silent dripping faucet fix is important for your water bill and the peace of mind that comes from a quiet kitchen. Faucets drip for a few main reasons. These issues usually involve parts that wear out from constant use and water pressure.

The main culprits are:

Worn Washers or Seals: In compression faucets, rubber washers flatten or crack.
Damaged Cartridges: In newer cartridge or ceramic disc faucets, the internal unit wears out.
Loose Parts: Sometimes, tightening a loose faucet handle is all it takes.
Corroded Valve Seats: Mineral buildup can prevent a perfect seal.

Knowing what kind of faucet you have is the first big step in DIY faucet repair.

Identifying Your Faucet Type

There are four main types of faucets found in kitchens today. Your repair method depends entirely on which one you have.

Faucet Type	How Many Handles?	Key Internal Part	Common Dripping Cause
Compression	Two	Rubber Washer	Worn-out rubber washer
Cartridge	One or Two	Removable Cartridge	Worn O-rings or a cracked cartridge
Ceramic Disc	One	Ceramic Disc Unit	Cracked disc or inlet seals
Ball Type	One	Rotating Ball Assembly	Worn springs, seats, or cams

Most modern faucets are cartridge or ceramic disc types. Older faucets often use the compression style.

Safety First: Preparing for the Repair

Before you grab any tools, you must shut off the water. If you skip this step, you will have a big mess when you take the faucet apart.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

Locate Shutoff Valves: Look under the sink. You should see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor—one for hot water and one for cold water.
Turn Off the Water: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them hard.
Test the Faucet: Turn on the dripping faucet fully. Water should stop completely, or only a very small dribble should come out. If water keeps flowing, the shutoff valves are not working or are missing.
If No Valves Under Sink: You will need to troubleshooting leaky sink faucet by finding the main water shutoff valve for your entire house. This is usually near the water meter or where the main line enters your home. Turn this off completely.

Gathering Your Tools

You need the right tools for how to stop faucet drip noise from becoming a plumbing emergency.

Adjustable wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Pliers (needle-nose are very helpful)
Utility knife or putty knife (for prying off caps)
Replacement parts kit (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
White vinegar (for cleaning mineral deposits)
Towel or rag (to protect the finish)
Plumber’s grease (silicone-based, non-petroleum)

Repairing a Compression Faucet (Two Handles)

Compression faucets are the oldest style. They rely on a rubber washer pressing against a metal valve seat to stop the flow. When water dripping from faucet spout happens in these faucets, it almost always means you need replacing kitchen faucet washer.

Step 1: Taking Off the Handle

Remove Decorative Cap: Pry off the small decorative cap (usually marked H or C) on top of the handle using a thin flathead screwdriver or utility knife. Be gentle not to scratch the metal.
Unscrew the Handle Screw: You will see a screw underneath the cap. Use the correct screwdriver to remove this screw. Keep the screw safe.
Remove the Handle: Lift the handle straight up. If it is stuck, try wiggling it gently or use a handle puller if you have one.

Step 2: Accessing the Stem and Washer

Remove the Packing Nut: Look for a large nut holding the stem assembly in place. This is the packing nut. Use an adjustable wrench to turn this nut counter-clockwise to loosen it.
Pull Out the Stem: Once the packing nut is off, you can pull or unscrew the entire faucet stem assembly out of the faucet body.

Step 3: Replacing the Washer

Inspect the Washer: At the very bottom of the stem assembly, you will find the rubber washer held in place by a brass screw. This washer is likely flattened, cracked, or hardened. This is the source of the leak.
Remove the Old Washer: Use a screwdriver to remove the brass screw. Take off the old washer.
Install the New Washer: Take the old washer to a hardware store to match the size exactly. Place the new washer in position. Reinstall the brass screw and tighten it gently—do not overtighten, or you will ruin the new washer quickly. This step is key for a successful replacing kitchen faucet washer.

Step 4: Checking the Valve Seat

The valve seat is the metal part inside the faucet body where the washer presses.

Inspect for Damage: Look down into the faucet body where the stem came out. If the seat is rough, pitted, or corroded, the new washer won’t seal well.
Clean or Re-seat: You can try cleaning it with a cloth dipped in vinegar. If it is deeply pitted, you need a special tool called a seat wrench to remove and replace it, or a seat dressing tool to smooth the surface. This is part of a full DIY faucet repair.

Step 5: Reassembly

Lubricate: Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the threads of the stem assembly.
Reinsert: Screw or push the stem assembly back into the faucet body.
Tighten Packing Nut: Hand-tighten the packing nut first, then give it a small turn with the wrench. It needs to be snug but not crushing the stem.
Reattach Handle: Put the handle back on, secure the handle screw, and snap the decorative cap back into place.

Turn the water back on slowly and check for drips.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet (Single or Double Handle)

Cartridge faucets are common today. They use a self-contained cartridge unit to control water flow and temperature. A leak often means the cartridge itself needs replacing faucet cartridge.

Step 1: Accessing the Cartridge

Remove Handle Screw: Look for the small set screw that holds the handle onto the faucet body. This is often hidden under a decorative cap or sometimes accessed from the side or back of the handle base. Use an Allen wrench (hex key) or screwdriver to loosen and remove this screw.
Remove the Handle: Lift the handle off.
Remove Retaining Clip or Nut: Cartridges are usually held in place by a brass retaining nut or a small metal clip inserted vertically into the faucet body.
- If a Clip: Use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull the clip straight up.
- If a Nut: Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the retaining nut counter-clockwise.

Step 2: Removing and Inspecting the Cartridge

Pull the Cartridge: Grip the top of the cartridge (it might have a small stem sticking up) with pliers. Pull it straight up and out. It may take a little force.
Examine O-Rings: Look at the base and sides of the old cartridge. If the rubber O-rings look cracked or worn, you can sometimes replace just the O-rings instead of the whole cartridge. Use a small pick to roll the old O-rings off.
Compare Parts: Take the old cartridge to the store. Cartridges are brand and model-specific, so getting an exact match is crucial for troubleshooting leaky sink faucet issues related to this part.

Step 3: Installing the New Cartridge

Lubricate: Apply plumber’s grease to the new O-rings or the outside body of the new cartridge.
Align Properly: This is vital. Cartridges have specific notches or alignment tabs. Look for markings on the faucet body. The new cartridge must line up exactly with these marks so the hot and cold sides are correct. If misaligned, the handle won’t work right, or the water will run backward.
Insert and Secure: Push the cartridge firmly into place. Reinstall the retaining clip or the retaining nut. Make sure the clip sits fully in its groove.
Reattach Handle: Put the handle back on, secure the set screw, and test the water flow. If the faucet still drips from the spout, you may need a new cartridge.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets are very reliable. They use two highly polished ceramic discs that slide against each other to control water flow. They rarely drip unless the seal at the bottom fails or the discs crack (which is rare).

Step 1: Accessing the Disc Cylinder

Remove Handle: Follow the same steps as the cartridge faucet to remove the handle and any decorative caps or screws.
Remove the Cylinder Cap: You will see a metal housing or cap covering the ceramic cylinder. Unscrew this cap, usually by hand or with gentle wrench help.
Remove the Disc Cartridge: Lift out the entire disc assembly.

Step 2: Replacing Seals or the Cylinder

Inspect Seals: At the bottom of the housing where the cylinder sat, there are usually neoprene or rubber seals and springs. These seals are the most common leak point in a disc faucet. Use a small tool to remove the old seals and springs.
Install New Seals: Place the small springs into their slots first, and then place the new rubber seals on top of the springs.
Clean Discs: Wipe the ceramic discs with a soft cloth. Do not scratch them.
Reassemble: Place the disc cylinder back in, making sure any alignment marks match. Screw the cap back on firmly.

Ceramic disc repairs are often about replacing faucet cartridge seals rather than the main disc unit itself.

Addressing Ball-Type Faucets

Ball-type faucets (often found in older single-handle kitchens) use a rotating metal or plastic ball to regulate water flow. They have many small parts, making them trickier for DIY faucet repair.

Step 1: Disassembly

Remove Handle: Loosen the set screw on the side or back of the handle and remove it.
Remove Cap and Collar: Unscrew the cap that covers the ball mechanism. This might require adjustable pliers, so wrap the cap with a cloth first to prevent scratches.
Remove Cam and Ball: Lift out the cam (a plastic piece with a slot) and the plastic or metal rotating ball underneath it.

Step 2: Replacing Seats and Springs

Locate Seats and Springs: Look down into the faucet body. You will see two small rubber seats resting on small springs, one for the hot side and one for the cold side. These are usually the cause of leaks where water dripping from faucet spout.
Remove Old Parts: Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the old springs and seats.
Install New Parts: Drop the new springs in first, followed by the new rubber seats resting on top of the springs.

Step 3: Reassembly

Replace Ball: Put the rotating ball back in. Make sure the groove on the ball aligns with the pin or slot inside the faucet body.
Replace Cam: Put the cam back on. The slot in the cam must line up with the small pin on the faucet body.
Tighten Cap: Screw the cap back on. It needs to be snug enough to hold everything in place but loose enough for the handle to turn smoothly.

Troubleshooting Common Problems Beyond the Drip

Sometimes, the leak isn’t just water dripping from faucet spout. You might have leaks elsewhere.

Leak Around the Base of the Spout

If water pools around the base of the faucet, this is usually an O-ring issue on the spout itself, not the main valve or cartridge.

Remove the Spout: On many models, the spout simply pulls straight up after you remove the handle assembly. On others, there might be a retaining screw hidden under the handle base.
Replace Spout O-rings: Once the spout is off, you will see one or two rubber O-rings around the base tube. Carefully slice off the old ones.
Lubricate and Reinstall: Coat the new O-rings generously with plumber’s grease before sliding the spout back on. This ensures a watertight seal and smooth rotation.

Fixing Handle Issues and Noises

If the leak is gone but you hear a squeak or feel looseness, you might need tightening a loose faucet handle or dealing with packing material.

Squeaking Handles (Compression Faucets): This means the packing material around the valve stem is worn out or dry. Remove the stem (as described in the compression section) and look at the packing nut. You can try wrapping new plumber’s packing string (graphite string) around the stem threads before screwing the packing nut back down. Or, simply use fresh plumber’s grease on the threads.
Loose Handles (All Types): If the handle wobbles, re-check the set screw holding the handle to the stem or cartridge. Make sure this screw is firmly set. If the screw is tight but the handle still moves excessively, the splines inside the handle itself might be stripped, requiring a new handle.

Handling Persistent Dripping After Repair

If you have gone through the replacement steps and water dripping from faucet spout continues, you must consider these factors:

Incorrect Part: Did you use the exact right replacement washer or cartridge? Even slight size differences cause leaks.
Valve Seat Damage: In compression faucets, deep pitting on the metal valve seat will defeat any new washer. Seat replacement or dressing is necessary.
Water Pressure: Extremely high water pressure can sometimes force water past even good seals. Check your home’s water pressure regulator if leaks occur across multiple fixtures.

Maintenance Tips for Longevity

Preventative care makes your next DIY faucet repair much less likely.

Inspect Regularly: Look under the sink monthly for signs of slow leaks or drips around the supply lines.
Wipe Down Handles: Keep handles clean and dry. Grit and soap scum can wear down seals faster.
Use Filtered Water (If Possible): Hard water leaves mineral deposits (scale) that score and scratch the rubber washers and ceramic discs, leading to future leaks.

Maintenance Action	Frequency	Benefit
Check handle tightness	Every 6 months	Prevents handle wobble and handle-related drips
Clean aerator	Every 3 months	Improves water flow and prevents splashing
Inspect supply line connections	Twice a year	Avoids catastrophic line failure
Address minor drips immediately	As soon as noticed	Saves water and prevents corrosion

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Leaks

Q: How long should a new faucet washer last?
A: A quality rubber washer should last between 5 and 10 years under normal household use. Ceramic and cartridge components are designed to last much longer, often 15 to 20 years, though O-rings may need replacement sooner.

Q: Can I fix a leak without shutting off the water to the whole house?
A: Yes, if your sink has dedicated shutoff valves under the basin for both hot and cold lines, you only need to turn those off. Always try the under-sink valves first.

Q: My faucet drips slowly, but I hear no noise. Is this still a problem?
A: Yes. Even a slow, silent drip wastes a significant amount of water over a year. Addressing it quickly is fiscally responsible and prevents potential mineral buildup around the spout area.

Q: I replaced the cartridge, but water is still coming from the spout. What now?
A: If you have a single-handle faucet, the most common reason for post-cartridge drips is that the new cartridge is misaligned. Turn off the water, remove the handle, and ensure the cartridge tabs are seated perfectly in the faucet body slots before reinstalling the retaining clip. If alignment is correct, the faucet body itself might have internal damage requiring replacement of the entire unit.

Q: What is plumber’s grease used for?
A: Plumber’s grease (silicone faucet grease) lubricates moving parts like O-rings, threads, and cartridge bodies. This reduces friction, ensures smooth handle operation, and helps create a tighter seal, which is essential for any successful DIY faucet repair.