You fix a kitchen faucet by first turning off the water supply. Then, you take the faucet apart to find the broken piece, like a worn-out washer or a bad cartridge. You replace the bad part with a new one, put everything back together, and turn the water back on. This guide will show you how to do this, whether you are repairing a leaky kitchen faucet or replacing a faulty kitchen faucet.
Why Faucets Leak and Drip
Kitchen faucets are used many times each day. This constant use causes parts to wear out. Leaks and drips are the most common signs of trouble. Troubleshooting common kitchen faucet problems starts with knowing the source of the issue. A drip usually means the seal or valve inside is bad. Sometimes, mineral buildup causes problems too.
Common Kitchen Faucet Issues
Faucets can fail in a few main ways. Knowing these will help you fix them fast. Here are some common kitchen faucet issues:
- Dripping from the spout: This is often a bad washer, seal, or cartridge.
- Leaking around the base or handle: This usually points to a loose connection or a damaged O-ring.
- Low water pressure: This might mean the aerator is clogged or the supply line is kinked.
- No hot or cold water: Check the shut-off valves under the sink first.
When you need to start fixing a dripping kitchen sink tap, knowing the type of faucet you have is key.
Types of Kitchen Faucets
Faucets come in a few main styles. The steps for kitchen faucet repair guide change based on the type you own.
| Faucet Type | Description | Common Failure Points |
|---|---|---|
| Compression | Two handles (hot and cold). Oldest design. | Washers wear out quickly. |
| Cartridge | One or two handles. Moves up/down for flow, left/right for temp. | Cartridge wears out or cracks. |
| Ball Type | Single handle that sits on a round ball base. Common in older single-lever styles. | Inlet seals or spring assemblies break. |
| Ceramic Disc | Single handle. Uses two ceramic discs to control flow. Very durable. | Discs crack (rarely) or O-rings fail. |
Most modern homes use cartridge or ceramic disc faucets. We will focus on these for detailed fixes, as they are the most common today.
Preparing for Kitchen Faucet Repair
Before starting any work, you need the right gear. Having the proper tools for kitchen faucet repair makes the job much smoother and safer.
Essential Tools Checklist
Gather these items before you start DIY kitchen faucet fixes:
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench (for tight spots under the sink)
- Screwdrivers (flat-head and Phillips)
- Pliers (needle-nose and standard)
- Hex keys (Allen wrenches—often needed for handle screws)
- Utility knife or putty knife (to pry off caps)
- White vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning mineral deposits)
- Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
- Plumber’s grease (silicone-based)
- Rags or towels
Safety First: Shutting Off the Water
This step is vital. Never try to take a faucet apart while the water is on.
- Locate the Shut-Off Valves: Look under the sink cabinet. You will see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor—one for hot water and one for cold water.
- Turn Off the Water: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. This shuts off the water flow to the faucet.
- Test the Faucet: Turn the faucet handles on fully (both hot and cold). If water still flows out, the main shut-off for the house might need to be turned off, or the under-sink valves are faulty. Let any remaining water drain out.
- Protect the Drain: Place a rag or stopper in the sink drain. This stops small screws or parts from falling down the pipe.
Fixing a Dripping Faucet: Step-by-Step
If you are repairing a leaky kitchen faucet, the fix often involves replacing faucet cartridges or washers. The process depends on your faucet type.
Fixing a Single-Handle (Cartridge or Disc) Faucet
Single-handle faucets rely on a cartridge to mix water and control flow. When it drips, the cartridge is usually the problem.
Step 1: Removing the Handle
- Find the Screw: Look closely at the handle base. Often, there is a small decorative cap hiding the screw. Pry this cap off gently with a small flat-head screwdriver or putty knife.
- Unscrew the Handle: Beneath the cap, you will find a set screw. This screw is usually held in place by an Allen wrench (hex key). Loosen and remove this screw.
- Pull the Handle Off: Lift the handle straight up and off the faucet body. If it is stuck due to corrosion, rock it gently side to side while pulling up. Do not force it too hard.
Step 2: Accessing the Cartridge
- Remove the Cap/Dome: Once the handle is off, you might see a metal dome or cap covering the cartridge. Unscrew this by hand or use an adjustable wrench if needed.
- Locate the Retainer Clip/Nut: The cartridge is held in place by a brass retaining nut or a small U-shaped metal clip.
- If it’s a nut, use an adjustable wrench to turn it counter-clockwise and remove it.
- If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull the clip straight up and out. Keep track of this clip!
Step 3: Replacing the Cartridge
- Remove the Old Cartridge: Grasp the top stem of the cartridge with pliers (if necessary) and pull it straight up. Pay close attention to how it sits in the housing—note the orientation of any tabs or slots.
- Inspect the Housing: Wipe out any grit or debris inside the faucet body cavity. You might see small rubber O-rings or seals at the bottom. If they look cracked or flattened, replace these small seals first before assuming the main cartridge is bad.
- Insert the New Cartridge: Take your replacement cartridge (make sure it matches the old one exactly). Align the tabs or markings on the new cartridge with the slots in the faucet body. Push it firmly down until it seats completely. This is critical for leak-free operation.
Step 4: Reassembly
- Secure the Cartridge: Reinstall the retaining clip or tighten the retaining nut. Make sure it is snug, but do not overtighten, as this can crack the new plastic parts.
- Reattach the Handle: Place the handle back onto the stem, secure it with the set screw, and snap the decorative cap back on.
Fixing a Two-Handle Faucet (Compression Style)
If you have an older, two-handle faucet fixing a dripping kitchen sink tap usually means replacing the stem washers.
Step 1: Handle Removal
- Remove the decorative caps (usually marked H or C).
- Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to remove the handle screws.
- Lift the handles off.
Step 2: Removing the Stem Assembly
- Under the handle, you will see a packing nut holding the stem assembly in place. Use an adjustable wrench to turn this packing nut counter-clockwise until the entire stem assembly lifts out.
- Some stems are threaded directly into the faucet body and only need to be unscrewed after the packing nut is loosened.
Step 3: Washer Replacement
- Look at the bottom tip of the stem assembly. You will see a screw holding a rubber washer in place. This is the seat washer, which stops the water flow when you turn the handle off.
- Remove the screw and replace the old, worn-out washer with a new one of the exact same size.
- Check the area just above the washer seat where the stem enters the faucet body. There may be a packing washer or O-ring here that needs replacing to stop leaks around the handle. Apply a light coat of plumber’s grease to all new O-rings.
Step 4: Reassembly
- Screw the stem assembly back into the faucet body.
- Tighten the packing nut.
- Reattach the handles.
Addressing Leaks Around the Base or Handle
If water seeps out from around the handle base or where the spout swivels, the O-rings are the usual culprits. This is a common issue when repairing a leaky kitchen faucet.
Spout O-Ring Replacement (For Swiveling Spouts)
- Remove the Spout: After removing the handle (as described above), you must remove the entire spout assembly. This often means removing a retaining nut or clip located at the base of the spout where it meets the faucet body. Some newer models might just lift off once internal screws are removed.
- Locate O-Rings: Once the spout is off, you will see one or two rubber O-rings wrapped around the base of the spout pipe.
- Replace and Lubricate: Use a small screwdriver or utility knife to carefully roll the old O-rings off. Clean the metal surface thoroughly. Roll the new O-rings into place. Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the new rings. This prevents them from tearing during reassembly and helps the spout swivel smoothly.
- Reassemble: Put the spout back, secure any retaining hardware, and reattach the handles.
Dealing with Low Water Pressure
Low pressure can be frustrating, but it is usually a simple fix. This falls under troubleshooting common kitchen faucet problems.
Cleaning the Aerator
The aerator is the small screen piece at the very tip of the spout. It mixes air into the water stream and catches sediment.
- Unscrew the Aerator: Most aerators twist off by hand, or you might need a pair of pliers wrapped in a cloth (to prevent scratching the finish).
- Disassemble: Separate the screen, flow restrictor, and housing.
- Soak and Clean: Soak all plastic and metal pieces in a bowl of white vinegar for at least 30 minutes. This dissolves mineral buildup (calcium and lime). Use an old toothbrush to scrub away any stubborn residue.
- Rinse and Reassemble: Rinse all parts well. Reassemble the aerator in the correct order and screw it back onto the spout. Test the water flow.
Checking Supply Lines
If cleaning the aerator does not help, check the hoses underneath the sink.
- Make sure the shut-off valves are fully open (turned counter-clockwise).
- Check the flexible supply lines running from the wall valves to the faucet. Ensure they are not kinked or sharply bent. If they are kinked, gently straighten them.
Replacing the Entire Faucet
If your faucet is very old, heavily corroded, or the internal body is cracked, replacing a faulty kitchen faucet might be the best long-term solution. Installing a new kitchen faucet requires removing the old one first.
Removing the Old Faucet
- Shut Off Water and Drain: Follow the initial safety steps to shut off both hot and cold water lines.
- Disconnect Supply Lines: Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the flexible supply lines from the shut-off valves under the sink. Have a small bucket ready for residual water.
- Remove Mounting Hardware: This is often the hardest part. Look up at the base of the faucet from underneath the sink. There will be large mounting nuts or a mounting bracket held by screws securing the faucet to the countertop.
- A basin wrench is specifically designed for reaching these tight spots. Loosen the nuts or screws holding the faucet base.
- Lift Out the Old Faucet: Once all connections and mounting hardware are free, lift the old faucet straight up and out from above the sink.
- Clean the Sink Surface: Scrape off any old putty or silicone sealant from the sink surface where the old faucet sat. A clean surface is key for the new faucet seal.
Installing a New Kitchen Faucet
New faucets usually come with detailed instructions specific to their model. However, the general steps remain the same.
Step 1: Applying Sealant
Many modern faucets come with a rubber gasket that sits between the faucet base and the sink deck. If yours does not, or if you are using a very old style, apply a thin bead of plumber’s putty or silicone sealant around the base edge of the new faucet body before setting it down.
Step 2: Setting the Faucet Body
- Feed the new faucet’s supply lines and mounting hardware down through the holes in the sink deck.
- Position the faucet correctly from above the sink.
Step 3: Securing from Below
- From underneath the sink, slide the mounting hardware (usually a rubber gasket, metal plate, and mounting nuts) onto the threaded shanks.
- Hand-tighten the mounting nuts first. Ensure the faucet is straight above the sink.
- Use your basin wrench or appropriate tool to fully tighten the nuts. Be firm, but do not overtighten to the point of cracking the countertop.
Step 4: Connecting Supply Lines
- Connect the new faucet’s flexible supply lines to the corresponding hot and cold shut-off valves.
- Hand-tighten the connections, then use an adjustable wrench to give them a quarter-turn more. Do not overtighten compression fittings.
Step 5: Final Testing
- Ensure the faucet handle is in the “Off” position.
- Slowly turn the hot and cold shut-off valves back on (counter-clockwise). Listen for any immediate hissing sounds that indicate a major leak.
- Check all connections under the sink for drips while the water is slowly flowing.
- Turn the faucet on fully (both hot and cold) to flush out any debris from the lines. Let it run for a minute.
- Turn the faucet off and check for drips. If there are no leaks, congratulations on installing a new kitchen faucet!
Maintaining Your Faucet to Prevent Future Issues
Routine care prevents the need for frequent repairs. A little maintenance goes a long way in keeping your faucet working well and avoiding emergency DIY kitchen faucet fixes.
Regular Cleaning
Wipe down the faucet exterior often with mild soap and water. If you notice hard water spots, use a 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar weekly. Always dry the faucet thoroughly after cleaning.
Checking for Loose Parts
Every few months, gently check the faucet handle screws and the base for any looseness. Tightening these small parts can prevent leaks from developing where the handle connects to the body.
Avoiding Harsh Chemicals
Never use abrasive cleaners or harsh chemicals like bleach or ammonia-based products directly on the finish, especially if it is brushed nickel, bronze, or specialized coatings. These can damage the protective layer.
Quick Troubleshooting Summary
Use this chart for fast diagnosis when troubleshooting common kitchen faucet problems:
| Symptom | Probable Cause | Quick Fix Action |
|---|---|---|
| Steady drip from spout | Worn cartridge, seal, or seat washer. | Replace the appropriate internal part (replacing faucet cartridges if needed). |
| Leak around the handle | Worn O-rings or packing nut is loose. | Replace O-rings and lubricate, or gently tighten the packing nut. |
| Low water flow | Clogged aerator. | Unscrew, soak in vinegar, and clean the aerator screen. |
| Faucet drips after repair | New part seated incorrectly or debris trapped. | Shut off water, disassemble, clean housing, and reseat the cartridge/washer firmly. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I replace a kitchen faucet cartridge?
There is no set schedule. A quality cartridge can last ten years or more. You should only replace it when you notice continuous leaking that won’t stop after simple tightening, which signals wear on the internal seals or discs.
Can I fix a leaky kitchen faucet without shutting off the main water supply?
Yes, for most single-faucet repairs, you only need to turn off the hot and cold shut-off valves located directly under the sink. Only turn off the main house supply if those under-sink valves fail to stop the water flow completely.
What is the easiest faucet type to repair myself?
Generally, compression faucets (two handles) are easiest for beginners because they use simple washers that are easy to see and replace. Cartridge faucets are also straightforward for DIY kitchen faucet fixes, provided you can easily access and remove the retaining clip.
Do I need a plumber to install a new kitchen faucet?
If you are comfortable working in tight spaces under the sink and have the right tools (especially a basin wrench), installing a new kitchen faucet is a manageable DIY project. If you are unsure about plumbing connections or if your sink setup is very old and rusted, hiring a professional ensures the job is done correctly and without leaks.
How do I stop my handle from wobbling after fixing the faucet?
Handle wobble usually means the set screw holding the handle onto the valve stem is loose. After finishing the internal repair, ensure that set screw—often hidden under a decorative cap—is tightened firmly with the correct hex key. If the screw hole in the handle itself is stripped, the handle may need replacing a faulty kitchen faucet component or the handle itself.