Can I build my own kitchen units? Yes, you absolutely can build your own kitchen units. This guide will show you how to tackle making your own kitchen units from scratch. Building DIY kitchen cabinets saves money and lets you create exactly what you need. We cover everything from planning to the final touches on your custom kitchen cupboards.
Planning Your Dream Kitchen Layout
Good planning stops big problems later. Think hard about how you use your kitchen now. Where do you need more storage? Where does the light fall best? These steps help you start designing own kitchen units perfectly.
Measuring Your Space Accurately
Measure twice, cut once—this old saying is key here. Get a good tape measure. Measure the floor, walls, and ceiling height. Note where doors and windows are. Also, mark existing pipes or vents.
- Wall Lengths: Measure from corner to corner.
- Ceiling Height: Measure at several points. Floors can be uneven.
- Obstructions: Mark sinks, radiators, and sockets clearly.
Deciphering Cabinet Dimensions
Standard base cabinets are often 600mm deep and 900mm high (including the worktop). Wall cabinets usually sit 500–600mm above the counter.
Decide on the width for each unit. Do you want a 600mm oven housing? Maybe a 450mm drawer stack? Draw a simple map showing where each unit sits. This map is vital for constructing fitted kitchen furniture.
| Unit Type | Typical Depth (mm) | Typical Height (mm) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base Unit | 560–600 | 720 (Cabinet only) | Allows for worktop overhang. |
| Wall Unit | 300–350 | Varies | Must leave space above hob/sink. |
| Tall Unit | 560–600 | Up to 2100 | For larders or integrated appliances. |
Materials Selection for Longevity
The wood you choose matters a lot. It affects the look, strength, and cost of your DIY kitchen cabinets.
Choosing Cabinet Box Material
For the main structure, or carcasses, strength is paramount.
- Plywood (Birch or Hardwood): Strong, durable, and handles moisture well. It’s a top choice for woodworking for kitchen cabinets.
- MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard): Cheaper and very smooth for painting. It needs good sealing against water, especially in sinks areas.
- Melamine-Faced Chipboard (MFC): Common for standard cabinets. It’s ready-made and easy to assemble.
Selecting Carcass Construction Methods
How will you join the sides, top, and bottom of the boxes?
Dowelling and Glue
This is a strong, classic method. Use wooden dowels and wood glue. It makes a very solid joint.
Screws and Biscuits
Using specialized screws, often hidden, provides a strong connection. Biscuits add alignment strength.
Pocket Holes
A fast, modern method. Drill angled holes on the inside faces. Screws driven through these create strong hidden joints. This is great for assembling base kitchen cabinets.
Step-by-Step: Assembling Base Kitchen Cabinets
Base units are the workhorses of the kitchen. Getting these right ensures your kitchen unit installation guide ends well.
Cutting the Panels
If you are not buying pre-cut panels, precision is crucial here. Use a high-quality circular saw with a guide rail. This prevents chipping and ensures perfectly square cuts.
- Sides: Need to be identical in size.
- Top/Bottom: Must match the exact width needed.
- Back Panel (Usually thinner): Often 9mm or 12mm thick board.
Constructing the Carcass
Follow these steps when assembling base kitchen cabinets:
- Mark Joints: Lay out where the top, bottom, and internal shelves will sit on the side panels.
- Drill Holes: Drill holes for dowels, screws, or biscuits according to your chosen method. Pre-drill screw holes to avoid splitting the wood.
- Glue and Assemble: Apply wood glue to all mating surfaces. Clamp the pieces together tightly. Make sure the frame is perfectly square using a builder’s square.
- Attach the Back: Nail or screw the back panel on last. This panel squares the whole unit and stops it from racking (leaning sideways).
Tip for Appliance Bays: If you are making a unit for a cooker, ensure the internal dimensions fit your appliance specs. Tall units need extra bracing for stability.
Adding Adjustable Shelves and Fittings
For shelves, you need shelf pins. Drill a series of holes inside the cabinet sides. Use a jig to keep the holes straight and evenly spaced. This allows for flexible storage later.
Building Wall Cabinets
Wall units are lighter but must be very secure on the wall. Their assembly process is similar to base units, but they often lack a bottom panel if they are designed to fit over appliances.
When constructing fitted kitchen furniture, remember that wall units often use hanging rails instead of sitting directly on the floor.
Creating Beautiful Doors: Making Shaker Style Kitchen Doors
The doors define the kitchen’s look. Making shaker style kitchen doors is a popular choice because it looks classic and is achievable with basic woodworking for kitchen cabinets skills.
A Shaker door has a flat centre panel set inside a raised frame (stiles and rails).
Components of a Shaker Door
- Stiles: The vertical side pieces of the frame.
- Rails: The horizontal top and bottom pieces of the frame.
- Panel: The flat wood or MDF sheet that sits in the middle.
Joinery for Door Frames
The joints connecting the stiles and rails are critical for strength.
- Mortise and Tenon: This is the strongest traditional joint. A tongue (tenon) on the rail fits perfectly into a slot (mortise) cut into the stile. This requires precision tools.
- Dowels: Simpler to execute but still very strong when glued well.
Housing the Panel
The centre panel needs room to expand and contract with humidity changes. Do not glue the panel to the frame.
- Cut grooves (rebates) into the inside edges of the stiles and rails.
- The panel slides into these grooves. This allows the panel to move slightly without cracking the frame.
When you are renovating kitchen cabinets yourself, building new Shaker doors is a fantastic upgrade.
Finishing Touches: Worktops and Installation
Once the boxes and doors are made, it’s time for the kitchen unit installation guide phase.
Installing Kitchen Carcasses
This is where the layout comes to life. Base units go in first.
- Positioning: Place the first unit against the wall where you want the run to start. Use a spirit level to ensure it is level side-to-side and front-to-back. Use wedges under the feet if the floor is uneven.
- Fixing to the Wall: Secure the unit to the wall studs or brickwork using long screws. Use robust fixings suitable for your wall type (e.g., rawlplugs for masonry).
- Levelling and Spacing: Place the next unit next to the first. Use pipe clamps or specialized cabinet joining clamps to pull the carcasses tightly together. Check both units are level again.
- Joining Units: Drill pilot holes through the internal vertical panels where they meet. Screw them together firmly. This creates one strong, unified run of fitted kitchen furniture.
Note on Wall Units: Always locate the wall studs before drilling. Use a stud finder. Wall units must be hung from solid structure, not just plasterboard. Hanging rails make this process much easier for renovating kitchen cabinets yourself.
Fitting Worktops
Worktops should only go on after all the carcasses are perfectly level and secured.
- Measure the final run length, allowing for overhangs (usually 20mm at the front and sides).
- Cut the worktops using a track saw for a clean edge.
- If you have corner joins, use specific corner connectors and sealant to make them waterproof and seamless.
- Secure the worktop by screwing up through the top edges of the base carcasses into the underside of the worktop material.
Hardware: Hinges, Drawers, and Handles
The hardware dictates how the units function daily. Invest in good quality runners and hinges.
Drawer Runners
For drawers, use full-extension ball-bearing runners. These allow the entire drawer box to pull out.
When assembling base kitchen cabinets, ensure the runners are mounted parallel and at the correct height according to the drawer box design. Always use the manufacturer’s template for mounting holes.
Door Hinges
Modern kitchen doors almost always use concealed European-style hinges.
- These hinges screw onto a mounting plate inside the carcass.
- They offer three-way adjustment (up/down, in/out, side-to-side). This is essential for perfect door alignment when making shaker style kitchen doors.
| Hardware Item | Key Feature | Importance for DIY |
|---|---|---|
| Concealed Hinges | Three-way adjustment | Allows fine-tuning door gaps. |
| Full-Extension Runners | Smooth, deep access | Maximizes usable drawer space. |
| Soft-Close Mechanisms | Prevents slamming | Great safety and luxury feature. |
Finishing and Sealing Your Custom Build
The final stage protects your hard work.
If you used raw MDF or plywood for the boxes, sealing is vital. Use a good quality primer and two topcoats of durable kitchen paint. For solid wood components, use clear lacquer or oil.
Pay special attention to areas near the sink and dishwasher. Use silicone sealant around the edges where the worktop meets the wall and where the worktop meets the sink cut-out. This prevents water ingress, which can ruin chipboard or MDF quickly.
This detailed approach to designing own kitchen units ensures a professional, durable result when renovating kitchen cabinets yourself.
FAQ Section
Q: What is the hardest part about building DIY kitchen cabinets?
A: The hardest part is achieving perfect squareness and alignment across all the boxes and doors. Small errors in the initial carcass assembly multiply when you start installing kitchen carcasses and fitting doors. Precision in measuring and cutting is crucial.
Q: Can I reuse my old kitchen doors on new DIY carcasses?
A: Maybe, but it is often difficult. Older cabinets might use different hinge types or have different standard depths. If you are renovating kitchen cabinets yourself, it is usually best to build new carcasses to match modern hinge standards for the best function and look of your custom kitchen cupboards.
Q: How much money can I save by building my own kitchen units?
A: Savings vary greatly. You can typically save 30% to 60% compared to buying mid-range flat-pack or fully fitted units. The biggest savings come from the labour costs, especially if you are constructing fitted kitchen furniture for a large space.
Q: Do I need specialized tools for making shaker style kitchen doors?
A: To make high-quality, long-lasting shaker doors, you ideally need a router or a table saw to cut the precise rebates (grooves) for the panel. While simpler versions can be made with careful hand tools, a router makes making shaker style kitchen doors much faster and more accurate.
Q: What material is best for the cabinet carcass if I plan on painting everything?
A: Moisture-resistant MDF (MR-MDF) is excellent for painting. It has a very smooth surface that takes primer and paint very well. However, ensure all exposed edges are sealed properly before painting to prevent moisture absorption.