Step-by-Step: How To Repaint Kitchen Cabinets

Can I repaint my kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you absolutely can repaint your kitchen cabinets yourself! Repainting kitchen cabinets is a fantastic way to achieve a major kitchen cabinet makeover without the high cost of replacement. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the cabinet painting process for a professional-looking finish, making DIY cabinet painting achievable for most homeowners.

Why Repaint Your Cabinets?

Many people wonder if refinishing kitchen cabinets is worth the effort. The answer is a resounding yes. A fresh coat of paint can completely transform the look and feel of your kitchen. It updates dated styles, hides minor wear, and allows you to choose any color you desire. It is much cheaper than buying new cabinets.

Phase 1: Planning Your Cabinet Painting Project

Good planning prevents poor performance. Rushing this stage leads to problems later on. Decide on your color and prepare your workspace first.

Selecting the Right Color and Finish

Choosing the right color is the most exciting part. Think about your current countertops and flooring. Do you want a bright, modern look or a cozy, traditional feel?

Light Colors: Make a small kitchen feel bigger. They show dirt more easily.
Dark Colors: Add drama and depth. They hide minor stains better.
Neutrals (White, Gray, Beige): These are safe bets. They usually sell well if you move later.

Determining the Best Paint for Cabinets

This is crucial for a lasting finish. You cannot just use regular wall paint. You need paint made for hard surfaces. The best paint for cabinets is durable and resists chips and moisture.

We highly recommend using specialized cabinet paints. These are usually high-quality enamel or lacquer-based paints. They offer a hard, smooth finish.

Paint Type	Pros	Cons	Best For
Oil-Based Alkyd	Very hard finish, durable.	Strong fumes, slow drying, yellows over time.	High-traffic areas, traditional look.
Water-Based Acrylic Alkyd	Low odor, fast drying, cleans up easily.	Slightly less durable than oil, more expensive.	Most DIY projects, modern finishes.
Lacquers/Specialty	Professional-grade, very smooth finish.	Hard to apply correctly, requires spraying equipment.	Expert users seeking perfection.

Always aim for a satin or semi-gloss finish. Flat finishes show every imperfection. A glossier finish is easier to wipe clean. Invest in high-quality cabinet paint; cheap paint never lasts.

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies

Collect everything before you start any work. You do not want to stop mid-project to run to the store.

Degreaser or TSP substitute for cleaning kitchen cabinets before painting.
Fine-grit sandpaper (120, 180, and 220 grit).
Good quality primer (stain-blocking if necessary).
Your chosen high-quality cabinet paint.
Painter’s tape and plastic sheeting for protection.
Screwdrivers for removing doors and hardware.
Tack cloths, rollers (foam or high-density), and angled brushes.
A safe, ventilated area for drying (garage or spare room).

Phase 2: Preparation is Key to Success

Preparation takes up most of the time in refinishing kitchen cabinets, but it determines 90% of the final result. Poor prep means peeling paint later.

Removing Doors, Drawers, and Hardware

Take everything off the boxes. This makes the job much faster and cleaner.

Label Everything: Use masking tape and a marker. Label the back of each door (e.g., “Top Left,” “Drawer Center”). This saves massive headaches during reassembly.
Remove Doors and Drawers: Unscrew the hinges. Keep all screws together in labeled bags for each door or drawer.
Remove Hardware: Take off all knobs and pulls. Keep them safe, or plan for cabinet hardware replacement. If replacing hardware, measure the existing drill holes first.

Deep Cleaning Kitchen Cabinets Before Painting

Grease and grime are the enemy of good paint adhesion. Even if the cabinets look clean, they hold invisible layers of cooking oils.

Use a strong degreaser. TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) is excellent but harsh. A TSP substitute or a strong solution of dish soap and warm water works well.
Scrub every surface thoroughly. Pay close attention to areas around handles and near the stove.
Rinse the surfaces well with clean water.
Let the cabinets dry completely. They must be bone dry before moving on.

Cabinet Stripping and Sanding

If your existing finish is glossy, peeling, or damaged, you need to rough it up or remove it. Cabinet stripping and sanding prepare the surface for paint.

When to Strip vs. When to Sand

Sanding Only: If the current finish is in good shape (not peeling) and you are using a quality bonding primer.
Stripping: If the finish is badly chipped, peeling, or you are changing the cabinet material significantly (like going from dark stain to light paint). Stripping is messy and labor-intensive.

The Sanding Process

Sanding levels the surface and creates “tooth” for the primer to grip.

Start Coarse (If Needed): Use 120-grit sandpaper only if you have deep scratches or rough areas.
The Main Sand: Use 180-grit sandpaper on doors, drawer fronts, and cabinet boxes. Sand with the grain of the wood. You are not trying to remove all the old color; you are just dulling the finish.
Final Smoothing: Lightly go over everything with 220-grit paper for a very smooth feel.
Dust Removal: This is critical. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment first. Then, wipe down every surface with a tack cloth or a rag lightly dampened with mineral spirits. Dust left behind will show under the new paint.

Phase 3: Priming for the Perfect Base

Priming kitchen cabinets seals the wood, blocks stains, and ensures the topcoat adheres properly. Do not skip primer!

Choosing the Right Primer

The best primer blocks tannins (oils in wood like oak or pine) from bleeding through your new light paint color.

For Dark Finishes or Staining Wood (e.g., Oak): Use an oil-based or shellac-based primer. These are the best at blocking stains.
For Generally Good Surfaces: A high-quality bonding primer designed for slick surfaces works well.

Applying the Primer

Apply primer thinly. Thick coats take longer to dry and can sag.

Doors and Drawers: Lay them flat on sawhorses in your ventilated space. Use a small foam roller for flat areas. Use a brush for corners and detailed edges.
Cabinet Boxes: Tape off any interior shelves or areas you are not painting (like the inside of the cabinet boxes).
Dry Time: Let the primer dry fully according to the manufacturer’s directions. This is usually several hours.
Light Sanding After Primer: Once dry, lightly sand the primed surface with 220-grit sandpaper. This knocks down any raised grain or roller fuzz. Wipe clean with a tack cloth. A smooth primer coat means a smooth final coat.

Phase 4: Painting Cabinets – The Top Coat Application

This is where your vision comes to life. Apply thin coats. Multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat.

Technique for Doors and Drawers

The goal is a smooth, factory-like finish. Spraying gives the best results, but brushing and rolling can achieve a great look if done carefully.

If Brushing and Rolling:

Cut In Edges: Use a high-quality angled sash brush to paint the detailed edges and corners first. Work the paint in well.
Roll the Flats: Use a small, high-density foam roller. Dip it lightly into the paint tray. Roll in smooth, straight passes, overlapping slightly. Work top to bottom.
Avoid Overworking: Once the paint is laid down, stop touching it. Overworking the paint causes brush marks and lumps. Let the high-quality cabinet paint level itself out as it dries.

If Spraying (Recommended for best finish):

Spraying requires significant setup (ventilation, respirator, drop cloths everywhere). Use an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) sprayer.

Practice: Spray scrap wood first to set the correct fan width and pressure.
Maintain Speed: Move the sprayer steadily across the door, keeping the nozzle the same distance from the surface.
Overlap: Overlap each pass by about 50%.

Painting the Cabinet Boxes

Painting the boxes is often easier because they have fewer complex details.

Use your brush and roller combination. Be careful around the openings so you do not get paint where the doors will close.
Be meticulous inside the frames. A small roller or a brush works well here.

Applying Multiple Coats

Most jobs require two to three coats of the topcoat for full color saturation and durability.

Wait for Full Dry Time: Check the can for recoat times. Do not rush this step. If the paint is tacky, you will ruin the layer beneath.
Light Sand Between Coats: After the first coat dries, lightly sand the entire surface with 320-grit sandpaper or a light sanding sponge. Wipe clean. This ensures the second coat adheres perfectly to the first.
Final Coat: Apply your final coat smoothly. This layer should be the best one.

Phase 5: Curing and Reassembly

The paint may feel dry to the touch quickly, but it needs time to fully cure (harden). Curing takes weeks, not days.

Curing Time

Be gentle with the cabinets for at least one week after painting. Do not put heavy items on shelves. Wait at least 48–72 hours, or longer depending on the paint type, before handling or hanging doors. Check your specific paint guidelines for the precise recoat and cure times.

Cabinet Hardware Replacement

Once the paint is hard enough to handle without smudging (usually 24–48 hours):

Install New Hardware: If you opted for cabinet hardware replacement, now is the time. If you are reusing old hardware, clean it thoroughly first.
Reattach Doors and Drawers: Carefully align the hinges. It is helpful to have a second person hold the door while you secure the screws. Adjust the hinges so the doors hang straight and close properly.

Final Touches

Step back and admire your hard work. This successful DIY cabinet painting job should look professional.

Tips for Achieving a Flawless Finish

Getting a professional look during refinishing kitchen cabinets requires attention to small details.

Creating a Dust-Free Environment

Dust particles settling in wet paint create tiny bumps.

Paint on a day with low humidity. High humidity slows drying, which means paint stays wet longer, attracting more dust.
If painting indoors, run an air purifier with a HEPA filter nearby (but not so close it blows dust onto the wet paint).
If painting in a garage, lightly mist the floor with water before you start to settle existing dust.

Managing Drips and Runs

Drips happen when too much paint is applied in one area or when a roller is overloaded.

Catching Drips: Watch the surface closely for the first 15–30 minutes after painting a section.
Fixing Drips: If you see a drip starting, gently brush it out immediately, moving the excess paint onto the surrounding area. If the drip sets hard, you must sand it down flat before the next coat.

Working in Sections

Break the job down logically to manage the process.

Section	Estimated Time Commitment (Excluding Drying)	Key Focus
Prep, Removal, Cleaning	1 day	Thorough degreasing.
Stripping/Sanding	1–2 days	Creating a good “tooth.”
Priming (2 Coats)	1 day	Stain blocking and sealing.
Painting (2–3 Coats)	2–3 days	Thin, even coats.
Reassembly & Curing	1 day + Waiting	Careful alignment of doors.

This staggered approach helps keep your kitchen functional while you work.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cabinet Repainting

How long does it take to repaint kitchen cabinets?

The actual hands-on time for DIY cabinet painting is usually 3 to 5 full days of work, depending on how many coats you use and if you spray or brush. However, the total project time, including necessary drying and curing periods between steps, often spans 5 to 10 days.

What is the cheapest way to update kitchen cabinets?

The cheapest way is definitely refinishing kitchen cabinets by cleaning them very well and applying a fresh coat of paint. You save money by reusing the existing structures and hardware (if possible).

Can I paint over glossy cabinets without sanding?

You should never skip sanding entirely. While some specialty primers claim to adhere to glossy surfaces, sanding (even a light scuff sand) ensures the primer and paint will not peel off when exposed to heat or moisture. Always aim for some surface profile.

Should I remove cabinet doors before painting?

Yes, removing the doors is highly recommended. Painting doors while they are hanging leads to uneven coverage, drips on the cabinet frames, and makes it impossible to paint the hinges and edges correctly.

What is the difference between staining and painting cabinets?

Staining adds color while allowing the natural wood grain to show through. Painting completely covers the wood grain with an opaque layer of color, offering a more uniform, modern look. Painting requires more intensive surface prep than most staining projects.