Can I change a kitchen sink faucet myself? Yes, you can absolutely change a kitchen sink faucet yourself with basic tools and a little patience. This guide will show you every step for installing a new kitchen faucet successfully.
Preparing for Your DIY Kitchen Faucet Upgrade
Making a DIY kitchen faucet upgrade is a great way to refresh your kitchen look and fix leaks. Before you start turning wrenches, good preparation makes the job fast and easy.
Gathering Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement Tools
Having the right tools ready stops frustrating trips to the hardware store halfway through the job. Here are the essential kitchen faucet replacement tools you will need:
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench (a basin wrench is crucial for tight under-sink plumbing for faucet access).
- Pliers (slip-joint or channel locks).
- Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead).
- Safety glasses.
- Bucket and old towels (for catching water).
- Putty knife or razor blade (for scraping old caulk).
- Flashlight or headlamp (it gets dark under the sink!).
- Plumber’s putty or silicone sealant (check your new faucet instructions).
- Teflon tape (also called pipe thread tape).
Picking the Right New Faucet
When choosing a new faucet, consider your current setup. Most sinks are drilled for three holes (hot, cold, spout) or one hole.
Single Handle vs Double Handle Faucet Choice
Your choice between a single handle vs double handle faucet affects the installation process slightly.
| Feature | Single Handle Faucet | Double Handle Faucet |
|---|---|---|
| Operation | Mixer controls water flow and temperature in one lever. | Separate handles for hot and cold water. |
| Cleaning | Easier to wipe down due to fewer bases. | More seams to clean around. |
| Installation | Often simpler, especially single-hole models. | Requires aligning two separate handles and a spout. |
Make sure the new faucet base plate (escutcheon) covers all existing holes if you switch from a three-hole setup to a single-hole model.
Step 1: Disconnecting Old Kitchen Faucet
The first big hurdle is disconnecting old kitchen faucet lines. Work safely and keep things dry.
Shutting Off the Water Supply
This is the most important safety step.
- Look under your sink cabinet. You should see two shut-off valves—one for hot water (usually on the left) and one for cold water (usually on the right).
- Turn both valves fully clockwise until they stop. Turn them off firmly, but do not overtighten.
- Open the old faucet handles completely to release any pressure left in the lines. Let the water drain out until it stops.
- Place your bucket directly under the supply line connections to catch drips.
Removing Water Supply Lines
The supply lines run from the shut-off valves up to the faucet body.
- Use your adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts where the supply lines connect to the shut-off valves. Turn counter-clockwise. Some water will drip out, so keep that towel handy.
- Next, follow the supply lines up to where they connect to the bottom of the old faucet. Use pliers or a wrench to disconnect these lines from the faucet tailpieces.
If you have a sprayer hose, disconnect it now, too. Often, there is a separate connection point for the sprayer hose under the sink.
Detaching the Faucet Base
This is where you need good lighting and maybe that basin wrench. The faucet is held onto the sink deck by mounting nuts or screws underneath.
- Get under the sink and locate the large nuts or mounting brackets securing the faucet body to the underside of the sink.
- Use your basin wrench to grip these nuts. They are often stiff from corrosion. Turn them counter-clockwise to loosen them. If they are plastic, be gentle to avoid cracking them.
- Once all nuts or screws are removed, the old faucet should lift straight up and out from the top of the sink.
- Use a putty knife to gently scrape away any old caulk or putty residue left on the sink surface. Clean the area thoroughly.
Step 2: Mounting the New Kitchen Sink Faucet
Now it is time for the fun part: mounting a kitchen sink faucet. Always refer to the specific instructions that came with your new faucet, as designs vary widely.
Preparing the New Faucet
If your new faucet came with flexible supply lines already attached, skip ahead. If not, this is the time to attach them to the faucet body.
- Wrap the threads of the faucet tailpieces with a few layers of Teflon tape, winding clockwise. This ensures a tight, leak-free seal.
- Hand-tighten the supply lines onto the faucet base first, then give them a slight turn with a wrench—just snug, not overly tight.
Setting the Faucet Base
If you are going from a three-hole to a single-hole faucet, you will place a deck plate (escutcheon) over the existing holes first.
- If the faucet uses plumber’s putty or a rubber gasket for sealing the base, apply it now according to the manufacturer’s directions. For most modern faucets, a large rubber gasket is used, eliminating the need for putty.
- Feed the supply lines and the faucet mounting shank down through the hole(s) in the sink or countertop.
- From below the sink, thread the large mounting washer and nut(s) onto the faucet shank.
Securing the Faucet
Properly securing the faucet prevents wobbling and leaks.
- Hand-tighten the mounting nut(s) until the faucet sits straight on the sink top.
- Use your basin wrench or the specialty tool provided with your faucet kit to firmly tighten the nut(s). Be very careful not to overtighten, which could crack a granite or composite sink. The faucet should not move when you wiggle it.
Installing Sprayers and Accessories (If Applicable)
If you have a separate side sprayer or a pull-down/pull-out sprayer hose:
- Feed the sprayer hose down through its designated hole.
- Attach the weight to the designated spot on the pull-out hose underneath the sink. This weight helps the sprayer retract smoothly.
- Connect the sprayer hose to the main faucet body connection point, usually a quick-connect fitting or threaded nut.
Step 3: Connecting Supply Lines to Under-Sink Plumbing for Faucet
The final stage of the setup involves under-sink plumbing for faucet connections to your home’s water supply.
Connecting Hot and Cold Lines
This step requires careful alignment to prevent cross-threading.
- Identify which new supply line connects to the hot water inlet and which connects to the cold. (Hot is usually on the left, cold on the right, but check your faucet labels!)
- If you are using new supply lines, wrap the threads of the shut-off valve stems with a layer of Teflon tape (clockwise).
- Align the coupling nut of the supply line with the valve stem.
- Hand-tighten the coupling nut onto the valve. Then, use your adjustable wrench to tighten it a half-turn more until secure. Do not overtighten!
Tip: When making these connections, hold the supply line steady with one hand while turning the coupling nut with the other. This prevents twisting the line itself.
Reattaching the Drain Stopper Linkage (If Applicable)
If your sink has a pop-up drain stopper operated by a small rod coming from the back of the faucet, you must connect this linkage now.
- Insert the pivot rod from the faucet body into the clevis strap (the horizontal bar that moves the stopper).
- Adjust the position of the strap until the drain stopper seats properly when the rod is pushed down fully, and opens when pulled up fully. This often takes minor adjustments to the clips or screws on the clevis strap.
Step 4: Testing and Final Checks
Never skip the testing phase. A small leak now saves a big cleanup later.
Reintroducing Water Slowly
- Ensure the faucet handles on the new faucet are in the OFF position.
- Go back under the sink. Slowly turn the hot water shut-off valve counter-clockwise to open it. Watch the connection points carefully for any immediate drips.
- Slowly turn the cold water shut-off valve counter-clockwise. Again, inspect all connections you just made for leaks.
- If you see a small drip, gently tighten the corresponding nut just a tiny bit more.
Flushing the System
- Go above the sink. Before turning the faucet on, remove the aerator (the screen tip) from the end of the faucet spout. This prevents debris loosened during installation from clogging it.
- Turn the faucet on to the full hot position. Let it run for about one minute.
- Turn the faucet to the full cold position. Let it run for another minute.
- Turn the faucet off. Reinstall the aerator, making sure it is snug.
Test the operation of the faucet handles to ensure smooth movement and proper temperature mixing. If you notice troubleshooting low water pressure faucet issues after installation, the aerator is the first place to check for debris.
Advanced Tips and Troubleshooting
Even the simplest jobs can present unique challenges, especially when dealing with old pipes.
Dealing with Stubborn Old Nuts
If the nuts holding the old faucet are severely corroded, a little penetrating oil applied overnight can help. If that fails, the basin wrench is your best friend. If the nuts are plastic and spin without loosening, you may need to carefully cut them away using a small oscillating multi-tool with a metal cutting blade (be extremely careful not to hit the sink basin).
Faucet Types and Installation Variations
The steps above cover standard deck-mounted faucets. If you are installing a different type, note these differences:
- Pull-Down Hoses: Ensure the hose slides easily through the mounting area. The weight placement is critical for retraction.
- Three-Hole Faucets: You will secure two handles and one spout base, often using three separate mounting nuts or a large bracket.
- Bar Faucets/Pot Fillers: These may require drilling new holes if they do not match your existing sink configuration.
Checking for Leaks After a Day
Wait a full 24 hours before concluding the job is perfect. Water expands and contracts, and slight leaks might only appear under full use. Check all connections again the next day.
Fathoming Supply Line Compatibility
When connecting a sink faucet, compatibility between the new faucet lines and your existing shut-off valves is key. Modern faucets often come with flexible braided steel lines. Older homes might have copper stub-outs requiring compression fittings.
Table: Supply Line Connection Types
| Connection Point | Common Fitting Type | What to Check |
|---|---|---|
| Faucet End | Varies (often proprietary nut) | Must match the new faucet tailpiece size. |
| Shut-off Valve End | Standard 3/8 inch Compression | If the valve is older, you may need a new valve body. |
If the new supply lines do not fit the old valves, you must replace the shut-off valves first. This is an extra step but ensures a reliable seal for your replacing a leaky kitchen faucet project.
Why is the Water Pressure Low After Installation?
If you have troubleshooting low water pressure faucet problems after the switch, follow these checks in order:
- Aerator: Is it clogged with debris from flushing? Clean it.
- Shut-off Valves: Are they fully open? Sometimes people only open them halfway.
- Supply Lines: Did you inadvertently kink one of the flexible supply lines while maneuvering under the sink? If so, straighten it gently or replace it.
- Internal Cartridge: Rarely, debris can enter the faucet cartridge itself during installation. Running the faucet with the aerator off (as described in Step 4) usually clears this.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long does it take to change a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer, it can take about 1 to 2 hours. For a first-timer, especially if you have tough under-sink plumbing for faucet access, budget 3 to 4 hours, including cleanup time.
Q: Do I need to turn off the main water supply to the house?
A: Usually, no. You only need to turn off the dedicated hot and cold shut-off valves located directly under the sink. Only turn off the main water if those local valves are old, leaky, or do not exist.
Q: What is the difference between plumber’s putty and silicone sealant for faucets?
A: Plumber’s putty is generally used to seal the base of the faucet or around a drain flange for a pliable, removable seal. Silicone sealant creates a stronger, waterproof, permanent bond. Most modern faucets include rubber gaskets and do not require putty, but always check your manual.
Q: My new faucet is single-hole, but my sink has three holes. What do I do?
A: You need an escutcheon, also called a deck plate. This large plate covers the two unused outer holes while allowing the single faucet shank to pass through the center hole. Most single-handle faucets designed for three-hole sinks come with this plate included for easy mounting a kitchen sink faucet over existing holes.
Q: Can I reuse my old water supply lines?
A: It is highly recommended not to reuse old supply lines, especially if you are installing a new kitchen faucet to fix a leak. New faucets often come with new lines. If not, buying new flexible lines is cheap insurance against future leaks.