How To Change Out A Kitchen Faucet: DIY Guide

Yes, you can absolutely change out your kitchen faucet yourself! This DIY kitchen faucet replacement is a common home repair. Many people think it is hard. It is not, though. With the right tools and steps, you can finish the job easily. This guide will show you the best way to change out a faucet.

Gathering Your Supplies: What You Need

Before you start, gather all your tools. Having everything ready saves time later. You need the right plumbing tools for faucet change. Do not try to use regular tools. Specialized tools make the job much safer and faster.

Essential Tools Checklist

Tool	Purpose
Basin Wrench	Reaching tight spots under the sink.
Adjustable Wrench	Loosening and tightening supply lines.
Pliers (Channel-lock)	Gripping tough nuts and fittings.
Screwdriver Set	Removing old mounting hardware.
Safety Glasses	Protecting your eyes from debris.
Bucket and Towels	Catching any spilled water.
Flashlight or Headlamp	Seeing clearly under the sink.
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk	Sealing the new faucet base.
Utility Knife	Cutting old caulk if needed.

Getting Your New Faucet Ready

Make sure your new faucet is all there. Check the box against the parts list in the manual. Having all parts ready means less stopping and starting. This is key for a smooth install new kitchen faucet process.

Step 1: Turning Off the Water Supply

This is the most crucial first step. If you skip this, you will have a flood!

Locating the Shut-Off Valves

Look under your sink cabinet. You should see two valves. One is for hot water (usually red or marked ‘H’). The other is for cold water (usually blue or marked ‘C’).

Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This closes them.
Test the faucet handles above the sink. Turn the old faucet on fully (both hot and cold).
Only a little water should drip out, or none at all. This confirms the water is off.

If you cannot find these small valves, you must turn off the main water supply to your house. This is usually near your water meter or where the water line enters your home.

Draining Remaining Water

Even after turning off the valves, water stays in the lines.

Open the old faucet handles fully again.
Let all the remaining water drain out into the sink basin.
Leave the handles open during the removal process.

Step 2: Removing the Old Faucet

This section covers disconnecting old faucet connections. Be patient here; this is often the hardest part. Old connections can be stiff or rusty.

Detaching the Water Lines

You need to separate the flexible water lines from the shut-off valves.

Place your bucket directly under the connections.
Use your adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nuts where the lines meet the valves. Turn counter-clockwise.
Be ready for a small amount of water to drip out when you loosen these.
Once loose, carefully remove the supply lines from the valve stems. Let any residual water drain into the bucket.

Dealing with Sprayers and Soap Dispensers

If your old faucet has a side sprayer or a soap dispenser, detach those now.

Look for a hose leading to the sprayer. It usually connects near the base of the faucet. Disconnect this hose.
If there is a soap dispenser, remove the plastic bottle underneath. Then unscrew the mounting nut that holds the dispenser top in place.

Removing Stuck Kitchen Faucet Hardware

This is where you will be doing most of your reaching and wrestling under the sink. The faucet is held to the sink by large mounting nuts or brackets.

Lie on your back under the sink. Use your flashlight.
Locate the mounting nuts or screws holding the faucet base down.
Use your basin wrench or large socket wrench to start loosening these nuts. Turn counter-clockwise.

Tip for Stuck Nuts: If the nuts are corroded, spray them with penetrating oil (like WD-40). Wait 15 minutes before trying to turn them again. Sometimes, you might need a hacksaw blade to carefully cut through plastic nuts if they will not budge. This is part of how to replace kitchen sink faucet when things seize up.

Lifting Out the Old Unit

Once all nuts are removed and lines disconnected:

Go back above the sink. Gently pull the old faucet straight up and out of the holes.
Scrape away any old plumber’s putty or caulk residue from the sink surface using a plastic scraper or utility knife. Clean the area completely.

Step 3: Preparing and Installing the New Faucet

Now it is time to install new kitchen faucet parts. Read the instructions that came with your specific model very carefully. Faucets differ greatly.

Mounting the Base Plate and Gasket

Many modern faucets come with a deck plate (escutcheon) if you are covering an old three-hole sink configuration.

Place the rubber gasket or foam seal onto the bottom of the new faucet base or deck plate. This stops water from leaking under the sink.
If your manual calls for plumber’s putty, roll a thin rope of putty and place it around the edge of the base plate. If you use a rubber gasket, skip the putty.
Thread the faucet supply lines and mounting shank(s) through the hole(s) in the sink deck.

Securing the Faucet from Below

Go back under the sink. This step ensures the faucet does not wiggle when used.

Slide any washers or mounting brackets onto the threaded shank(s) from below.
Thread the large mounting nuts by hand. Make sure the faucet above the sink is straight before tightening.
Use your basin wrench or appropriate socket tool to firmly tightening faucet nuts. Do not overtighten! Just make it snug. Excess force can crack the sink or damage the faucet base.

Fathoming Tightening: The goal is firm, not extreme pressure. If you can wiggle the faucet body above the sink easily, tighten the nuts a bit more.

Connecting New Water Lines

Your new faucet likely has pre-attached supply lines. If not, attach new flexible supply lines to the faucet tails first.

Attach the hot line to the hot inlet on the faucet body. Attach the cold line to the cold inlet. Hand-tighten these first.
Use your adjustable wrench to give them a quarter to half turn more. Be careful not to kink the flexible lines.

Step 4: Final Connections and Testing

The last phase of this kitchen faucet replacement guide involves hooking up the water and checking for leaks.

Connecting to Shut-Off Valves

Align the new flexible supply lines with the shut-off valves below the sink.
Attach the hot line to the hot valve and the cold line to the cold valve.
Use your adjustable wrench to tighten the coupling nuts securely. Again, do not overtighten.

Installing the Sprayer Hose (If Applicable)

If you have a pull-down or pull-out sprayer, you need to connect the hose underneath.

Many modern pull-down sprayers use a quick-connect fitting. Push the hose firmly onto the corresponding connector stub coming from the faucet body. You should hear or feel a click.
If you have a weight for the pull-down hose, attach it now. The weight helps retract the sprayer head back into the spout when you let go. Clip the weight onto the lowest part of the hose loop, usually about 6 to 10 inches from the connection point.

Turning Water Back On and Checking for Leaks

This is the moment of truth.

Make sure the new faucet handles above the sink are in the OFF position.
Slowly turn the hot water shut-off valve counter-clockwise to open it.
Slowly turn the cold water shut-off valve counter-clockwise to open it.
Watch all the connections you just made—especially under the faucet body and at the shut-off valves. Look for any drips or moisture.

If you see a small drip:

If it is at the shut-off valve, gently tighten that coupling nut a tiny bit more.
If it is at the faucet body connection (where the supply line meets the faucet), tighten that nut slightly.

Flushing the Lines

Once you confirm there are no leaks under the sink:

Remove the aerator screen from the tip of the faucet spout. This prevents debris from clogging it.
Slowly turn on the hot water at the handle. Let it run for one minute. Check the flow.
Turn the hot water off. Slowly turn on the cold water. Let it run for one minute.
Turn off the water. Screw the aerator back onto the spout securely.

Your DIY kitchen faucet replacement is complete! Test the flow, temperature control, and sprayer function one last time.

Special Considerations for Different Faucet Types

While the basic steps remain similar, some specialized faucets need extra attention.

Single-Handle vs. Double-Handle Faucets

Single-handle faucets often have a single, large mounting nut or bracket system. Double-handle faucets might require you to mount the hot and cold handles separately, which means three holes on the sink deck need sealing or covering with the deck plate.

Pull-Down and Pull-Out Spray Heads

These systems rely on internal hoses and weights. Ensure the hose moves freely when testing the sprayer. If the hose snags or feels stiff when pulled out, you may need to adjust the placement of the counterweight under the sink.

Installation on Different Sink Materials

When tightening faucet nuts on thin stainless steel sinks, be extra cautious. These sinks can dent easily. Use a large washer or a metal plate underneath (if provided) to spread the pressure out evenly. Porcelain or granite sinks are more robust but can crack under uneven pressure.

Deciphering Common Installation Issues

Even with a good kitchen faucet replacement guide, things can go wrong. Here are quick fixes.

Issue 1: Water Pressure is Low

This usually means the aerator is clogged, or the lines are partially blocked.

Fix: Turn off the water. Remove the aerator. Turn the water on briefly (hot and cold separately) to flush debris. Then reattach the clean aerator. If the problem persists, check the connections at the shut-off valves to ensure the supply lines are not kinked.

Issue 2: Leaking Beneath the Sink After Installation

A leak means a seal failed somewhere.

Fix: Dry the area completely with a towel. Turn the water back off. Recheck the connections, starting from the shut-off valves upward. For threaded connections, try tightening them slightly more (about an eighth of a turn). If the leak is around the faucet base itself, the mounting nuts might be too loose, or the gasket/putty seal failed. You might need to remove the faucet, clean the sink surface, and re-seal it.

Issue 3: The Faucet Keeps Swiveling

This means the tightening faucet nuts were insufficient.

Fix: Turn the water off. Go under the sink and use your basin wrench to firmly tighten the main mounting nut that holds the faucet body to the sink deck. Remember, this nut secures the base plate and prevents rotation.

Maintenance for Your New Faucet

Proper care ensures your new faucet lasts a long time.

Cleaning: Wipe the exterior daily with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners, which can scratch the finish.
Mineral Deposits: If you notice hard water spots, use a mild vinegar and water solution to clean the spout and handles periodically.
Aerator Check: Once a year, unscrew the aerator and rinse out any debris that has collected inside. This keeps your water flow strong.

FAQ Section

What is the most difficult part of the DIY kitchen faucet replacement?

The most difficult part is often removing the old, corroded mounting nuts located in the tight space under the sink. This is why having the right plumbing tools for faucet change, especially a basin wrench, is essential for removing stuck kitchen faucet hardware.

Do I need to solder pipes when I replace kitchen sink faucet?

No, modern install new kitchen faucet projects rarely involve soldering. New faucets almost always use flexible supply lines that connect directly to standard shut-off valves using threaded fittings.

How long should it take to change out a kitchen faucet?

For someone doing this for the first time, expect the process to take between two to four hours, especially if you encounter difficulties disconnecting old faucet parts. An experienced plumber can do it in under an hour.

Can I use silicone caulk instead of plumber’s putty?

Yes, many modern faucet manufacturers recommend silicone caulk, especially for granite or solid surface countertops, as putty can sometimes stain these materials. Silicone offers a very strong, waterproof seal around the faucet base.