How To Change Faucet In Kitchen Sink: Easy Guide

Yes, you can absolutely change your kitchen faucet yourself! This guide will show you how to replace kitchen faucet hardware step-by-step. Many people think this job is too hard, but with the right tools and plan, DIY kitchen faucet replacement is very doable. We will walk through how to safely remove old kitchen faucet parts and install new sink faucet hardware with ease.

Preparation: Getting Ready for the Change

Before you start making a mess, good prep work saves time and stress. Think of this as getting your tools and workspace set up right.

Tools for Changing Kitchen Faucet

Having the right gear makes this job much faster. You do not need every fancy tool, but some are very helpful.

Tool Name Purpose Why It’s Needed
Basin Wrench Reaching nuts under the sink Essential for tight spots.
Adjustable Wrench (or Pliers) Tightening or loosening supply lines For making secure water connections.
Screwdriver Set (Phillips and Flathead) Removing cabinet parts or drain linkages May be needed for securing brackets.
Utility Knife or Putty Knife Scraping old caulk or putty For a clean surface for the new faucet.
Safety Glasses Protecting your eyes Water might drip unexpectedly.
Bucket and Towels Catching spilled water Keeps your cabinet dry.
Flashlight or Headlamp Seeing clearly under the sink Cabinets are often dark.
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk Sealing the new faucet base Stops water from leaking under the sink rim.

Choosing Your New Faucet

When you replace kitchen faucet, you pick the style you want. Faucets come in many forms. Do you want a simple single handle faucet installation or a classic dual handle faucet replacement? Measure your sink hole setup first. Most modern sinks have one, two, or three holes. Make sure your new faucet fits the number of holes you have. Some faucets need an extra base plate (escutcheon) to cover extra holes.

Step 1: Shutting Off the Water Supply

This is the most crucial safety step. You must stop the water flow before you start taking things apart.

Locating the Shutoff Valves

Look directly under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves attached to the water pipes coming out of the wall or floor. One valve controls the hot water (usually marked red or H). The other controls the cold water (usually marked blue or C).

Turn both valves fully clockwise until they stop. Do not force them too hard, or you might break an old valve.

Testing the Shutoff

Turn on the old faucet handles above the sink. Let the water run until it stops completely. This relieves any pressure left in the lines. If water still flows, you must find the main water shutoff for your house and close it. Always verify that the water is off before proceeding to remove old kitchen faucet parts.

Step 2: Disconnecting Supply Lines and Drains

Now we move to the actual kitchen sink plumbing repair work underneath the sink. Place your bucket and towels under the lines you are about to disconnect.

Detaching the Supply Lines

The supply lines run from the shutoff valves up to the base of your existing faucet.

  1. Use your adjustable wrench or pliers to gently loosen the coupling nuts connecting the supply lines to the faucet shanks (the threaded pipes coming down from the faucet).
  2. Be ready for a small amount of water to spill out when you loosen these. That is what the bucket is for.
  3. Once disconnected, carefully move the old supply lines out of the way. If your new faucet came with new lines, you can often leave the old ones attached to the faucet body for easier removal later.

Dealing with Sprayers or Soap Dispensers (If Applicable)

If you have a side sprayer or a built-in soap dispenser, these often have small hoses running down. Unthread or disconnect these hoses from the main faucet body underneath the sink.

Step 3: Removing the Old Faucet Mounting Hardware

This is often the hardest part of the DIY kitchen faucet replacement. Old metal parts get rusty and stuck. This is where your basin wrench shines.

Locating the Mounting Nuts

Look up at the underside of the faucet base where it sits on the sink deck. You will see large nuts or clamps holding the faucet body tight against the sink. These are the kitchen faucet mounting hardware.

  1. Use your basin wrench to grip these nuts. If they are plastic, pliers might work better. If they are metal and very tight, spray them lightly with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait ten minutes.
  2. Turn the nuts counter-clockwise to loosen them. This might take significant muscle, especially if the nuts are corroded. Keep the basin wrench steady.
  3. Remove all mounting nuts, washers, and any brackets associated with the old faucet.

Lifting Out the Old Fixture

Once all the nuts are off, the faucet should be loose.

  1. Go above the sink. Carefully lift the old faucet straight up and out of the sink holes.
  2. If it sticks, it might be sealed with old caulk or plumber’s putty on the sink surface. Use your utility knife or putty knife gently to break the seal around the base. Be very careful not to scratch the sink material.
  3. Remove the old faucet entirely and set it aside.

Step 4: Cleaning the Sink Surface

A clean surface is vital for the seal of your new faucet.

  1. Use your putty knife to scrape away all old caulk, putty, or grime from the area where the old faucet sat.
  2. Wipe the area down thoroughly with a clean cloth. You want the sink surface dry and smooth before setting the new hardware.

Step 5: Preparing the New Faucet for Installation

Before you place the new unit, you must prepare it according to the manufacturer’s instructions for install new sink faucet.

Attaching Supply Lines (If Not Pre-attached)

Many new faucets come with integrated supply lines. If yours does not, you must thread the new hot and cold supply lines onto the faucet tailpieces now.

  1. Wrap the threads of the tailpieces with plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) a few times in a clockwise direction. This helps create a watertight seal.
  2. Hand-tighten the supply lines onto the faucet body first. Then use your adjustable wrench for a final quarter-turn. Do not overtighten!

Applying Sealant

Check your new faucet manual. Some modern faucets use a rubber gasket instead of putty.

  • If using Plumber’s Putty: Roll a thin rope of putty (about the thickness of a pencil). Press this putty firmly around the entire underside edge of the faucet base plate (escutcheon) or the base of the faucet itself.
  • If using a Gasket: Simply place the rubber gasket onto the bottom of the faucet base as directed.

Step 6: Mounting the New Faucet

Time to put the new fixture in place! This is easier with a helper to hold the faucet steady above the sink while you work underneath.

Positioning the Faucet

  1. Gently lower the new faucet assembly down through the mounting hole(s) in the sink.
  2. Make sure the faucet is perfectly aligned and centered above the hole(s). If you used putty, press down lightly to set the seal.

Securing the Faucet from Below

  1. Go back under the sink. Slide the provided mounting washer(s) and nut(s) up onto the faucet tailpieces from below. This is the kitchen faucet mounting hardware you will use now.
  2. Hand-tighten the nuts.
  3. Use your basin wrench to tighten the nuts further. Tighten them evenly, alternating between sides if you have multiple nuts. The goal is to hold the faucet firmly in place so it does not spin. Stop tightening when the faucet above the sink looks straight and feels secure. Overtightening can damage the sink or the faucet base.

Installing Stabilizing Brackets

Some heavier faucets, especially those with pull-down sprayers, come with a metal mounting plate or bracket that screws onto the tailpieces for extra stability. Install this bracket now, securing it with the provided screws or nuts.

Step 7: Connecting the Water Lines

This step completes the connect kitchen faucet lines process.

Attaching Supply Lines to Shutoff Valves

  1. Take the new hot water supply line (often marked red or H) and thread it onto the corresponding hot water shutoff valve.
  2. Take the new cold water supply line (often marked blue or C) and thread it onto the cold water shutoff valve.
  3. Hand-tighten the coupling nuts first. Then, use your adjustable wrench to tighten them about a half-turn more. They need to be snug to prevent leaks, but stop before you strain the plastic or copper pipes.

Connecting Sprayer Hoses (If Applicable)

If you have a pull-down sprayer, now is the time to connect kitchen faucet lines for the sprayer hose. Usually, this involves snapping the quick-connect fitting onto the base unit connection under the sink. Follow your faucet’s specific guide for this attachment.

Step 8: Final Checks and Testing

You are almost done! Before putting everything back in the cabinet, you must test your work carefully.

Bleeding Air from the Lines

  1. Ensure the faucet handle above the sink is in the OFF position.
  2. Go under the sink and slowly turn the hot water shutoff valve back on (counter-clockwise). Wait a moment, then slowly turn the cold water shutoff valve back on. Listen for hissing or obvious leaks.
  3. Go above the sink. Slowly turn the faucet handles on (hot and cold). Water may sputter and spit air for a minute. Let it run for a full minute to clear all air from the lines.

Inspecting for Leaks

With the water running, quickly check every connection point under the sink with a dry paper towel or your fingers.

  • Check where the supply lines meet the shutoff valves.
  • Check where the supply lines meet the faucet tailpieces.
  • If you see any drips, turn the water off immediately. Tighten that specific connection slightly more. Test again. A slow drip needs immediate attention.

Cleaning Up the Sealant

If you used plumber’s putty, use a rag to wipe away the excess putty that squeezed out from under the faucet base. If you used silicone caulk, wait for it to cure fully (check the product directions) before getting it wet, though usually, the plumber’s putty seal is sufficient for a quick test.

Special Considerations for Faucet Types

The process above works for most standard setups, but here are notes on specific types.

Single Handle Faucet Installation

A single handle faucet installation usually means fewer connections below the sink. The handle mechanism is often integrated directly into the spout body. Ensure the handle moves freely before securing the final mounting nut. You might have a plastic retaining clip or a large threaded cylinder that holds the unit down instead of traditional nuts.

Dual Handle Faucet Replacement

A dual handle faucet replacement means you have two separate handles (one for hot, one for cold) feeding into a central spout, or two entirely separate mounting points. You will have two separate water inlets to connect below the sink, doubling the supply line connections you need to manage. Make sure the handles are positioned correctly (hot on the left, cold on the right) before final tightening.

Maintaining Your New Kitchen Faucet

Once your DIY kitchen faucet replacement is complete, proper care keeps it working well for years.

  • Avoid Harsh Cleaners: Do not use abrasive pads or strong chemicals (like bleach or ammonia) on chrome or stainless steel finishes. Stick to mild soap and water.
  • Check Connections Annually: Once a year, look under the sink when the water is off and slightly tighten the supply line connections just to prevent slow drips caused by temperature changes.
  • Aerator Cleaning: If water flow slows down, unscrew the tip of the faucet (the aerator). Soak it in vinegar to remove mineral buildup, rinse, and reinstall.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Replacement

Q: How long does it usually take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A: For someone doing it for the first time, plan for two to four hours, including cleanup. If the old faucet is stuck, it can take much longer.

Q: Can I install a new faucet if I have a three-hole sink but the new faucet only needs one hole?
A: Yes, you can. You will need to purchase an extra base plate, often called an escutcheon plate. This plate covers the unused side holes on your sink deck, allowing you to proceed with the single handle faucet installation into the center hole.

Q: My shutoff valves are old and won’t turn off completely. What should I do?
A: If the valves leak or won’t stop the water flow, do not force them. You must shut off the main water supply to your entire house first. Once the main water is off, proceed with disconnecting the faucet lines. After the faucet is replaced, you should plan to replace those old shutoff valves soon, as they pose a future leak risk. This type of issue falls under necessary kitchen sink plumbing repair.

Q: Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone caulk for the seal?
A: Check your new faucet instructions. Most modern faucets come with a rubber gasket that replaces plumber’s putty. If your faucet does not include a gasket, use a thin rope of plumber’s putty around the base edge before setting it down to ensure a watertight seal against the sink deck.

Q: What if the nuts holding the old faucet are completely corroded and won’t budge?
A: If muscle power fails, specialized tools are available, such as an oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade used very carefully to cut through the nut, or a dedicated faucet removal tool. However, if you are uncomfortable using power tools near your sink basin, it might be time to call a professional plumber for the remove old kitchen faucet stage.

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