DIY: How To Replace Laminate Kitchen Countertops Now

Can I replace laminate kitchen countertops myself? Yes, you absolutely can replace your old laminate countertops yourself with some basic tools and patience. This complete guide will walk you through every step of the DIY laminate countertop replacement project, from taking the old ones out to putting the beautiful new ones in.

Assessing Your Current Countertop Situation

Before starting any demolition, take a good look at what you have now. Knowing the layout helps you plan the removal and the new installation.

Deciphering What Holds Your Countertops In Place

Laminate countertops are usually held down in a few key ways. Finding these spots is the first step in a smooth laminate countertop removal.

Screws from Below: Check the underside of the cabinets. Cabinets often have screws going up into the bottom of the countertop. These are usually located near the top edge of the cabinet box.
Caulk or Silicone: The seam where the backsplash meets the wall, and sometimes where the counter meets the wall, is sealed with caulk or silicone. You must cut this seal first.
Sink Flange: If you have a drop-in sink, the sink clips underneath hold the sink tightly to the counter. You must disconnect the plumbing and remove the sink before the counter can lift.

Phase 1: The Laminate Countertop Tear Out

This phase is all about safe removal. We call this the laminate countertop tear out. Be careful not to damage your cabinets during this process.

Tools Needed for Removal

Gather these tools before you begin the teardown:

Safety glasses and work gloves
Utility knife
Pry bar or putty knife
Drill/driver
Adjustable wrench (for plumbing)
Screwdriver set

Step-by-Step Laminate Countertop Removal

Follow these steps carefully for safe removal:

Turning Off Water and Disconnecting Plumbing

Safety first! You must shut off the water supply to the sink.

Shut off valves: Locate the hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink. Turn them fully clockwise until they stop.
Drain lines: Open the faucet to relieve any remaining pressure. Place a bucket under the P-trap to catch drips.
Disconnect: Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the supply lines from the faucet tailpieces. Remove the P-trap and drain lines.
Remove the Sink: Locate the clips holding the sink in place. Unscrew or unclip them. Gently pry the sink up from the top, breaking the caulk seal. Set the sink aside safely.

Removing Fasteners and Seals

Now we detach the counter from the structure.

Cut the Caulk: Use your utility knife to slice through all caulk lines. Cut where the backsplash meets the wall, and where the front edge meets any side walls. Go deep with your cuts.
Remove Cabinet Screws: Open the upper cabinets. Look up at the underside of the countertop. Use your drill or screwdriver to remove every screw anchoring the counter to the cabinet frame. Keep these screws organized; you might need them later.

Lifting the Old Countertop

This usually requires two people. Laminate counters are bulky and awkward.

Gentle Prying: Start at an end or a corner. Insert a putty knife or thin pry bar between the top of the cabinet and the bottom of the counter. Gently tap the pry bar to create a small gap.
Lifting: Once you have a small gap, switch to a slightly larger pry bar or a wood block to protect the cabinets. Slowly pry upward. Work your way along the length of the counter, lifting evenly.
Separate and Remove: Once loose, lift the entire section off the cabinets. Move it carefully to your disposal area.

Phase 2: Preparing the Base for Installation

The surface where the new counter sits must be clean and flat. This is crucial for a good fit and long life. This step focuses on preparing subfloor for countertop.

Cleaning the Cabinet Tops

Residual adhesive, old caulk, or debris can throw off the level of your new top.

Scraping: Use a plastic scraper to remove any large blobs of old adhesive. Avoid using metal scrapers directly on the wood cabinet tops if possible, as you could gouge them.
Cleaning: Wipe down all cabinet tops thoroughly with a degreaser or mineral spirits. This ensures good adhesion later.

Checking and Adjusting Cabinet Level

New countertops look best when they sit flat. If your cabinets are out of plumb or level, the new counter might rock or not line up properly.

Use a Level: Place a long level across the tops of the cabinets, checking side-to-side and front-to-back.
Shim Where Needed: If a section is low, use thin strips of wood (shims) between the cabinet frame and the countertop to raise it slightly. Glue the shims in place temporarily. Do not skip this check, especially in older homes.

Phase 3: Installing New Laminate Countertops

Now comes the exciting part: installing new laminate countertops. Even if you bought prefabricated sections, you might need some on-site adjustments.

Measuring and Cutting Your New Material

Most DIYers buy laminate counters that come pre-edged on the front and ends, but you often need to cut out openings for the sink and cooktop.

Tools for Cutting Laminate

Circular saw with a fine-tooth carbide-tipped blade (essential for clean cuts)
Jigsaw (for sink cutouts)
Clamps
Straight edge or guide rail
Safety gear

Cutting Laminate Countertops Safely

Cutting laminate creates a lot of fine dust. Wear a good dust mask (N95).

Template First: If you are cutting a sink or cooktop opening, trace the template provided with the appliance onto the top surface of the new counter.
Protect the Finish: Laminate can chip easily when cut. To minimize this, always cut the top surface with the blade running backward (or use a shallow “scoring” pass first). Better yet, cut from the underside of the counter for the final cut whenever possible.
Using a Guide: For long, straight cuts (like splicing two sections together or cutting the back edge), clamp a perfectly straight edge firmly to the counter surface as a guide for your circular saw.
Sink Cutout: Use a jigsaw for curves or internal cuts. Drill a pilot hole in a corner of your traced area large enough to insert the jigsaw blade. Cut slowly along your line.

Securing the Countertop to the Cabinets

This is where you use the best methods to secure the top without damaging its appearance.

Choosing the Best Adhesive for Laminate Countertops

While screws hold the counter down, sometimes an adhesive is used for extra security, especially near the backsplash or where a seam occurs.

Construction Adhesive: A quality construction adhesive (like a heavy-duty polyurethane sealant) works well for bonding laminate to wood cabinets if needed, though screws are the primary fastener for laminate. Use it sparingly on the cabinet tops.

Fastening the Countertop

Positioning: Carefully lift the new countertop sections into place. Ensure all edges line up perfectly with walls and seams. This often requires two people.
Securing: Drive your screws up through the cabinet frame into the underside of the countertop. Do not overtighten! Laminate is stiff, and excessive force can cause it to crack or “dome” slightly over time. Screw until the counter is snug against the shims and cabinet frame.

Making Seams Look Good

If your kitchen requires two pieces of counter to meet (common for L-shapes or long runs), you need a good seam.

Butt Joint: The standard method for laminate is a tight butt joint. The two cut ends meet flush.
Seam Compound: Some installers use a specialized epoxy or color-matched caulk in the seam before butting the pieces together, or they use metal H-molding (though this is less common with modern, solid-core laminates). If your new counter has a factory-finished seam edge, simply butt them tightly.

Finishing Touches: Backsplashes and Edge Banding

Your laminate countertop installation guide isn’t complete without addressing the edges and backsplash.

Attaching the Backsplash

If your new counter came with a matching laminate backsplash piece:

Apply Adhesive: Run a bead of construction adhesive or silicone along the back edge of the countertop where the backsplash will sit.
Placement: Press the backsplash piece firmly into place against the wall.
Secure: If the backsplash is tall, you may need to temporarily brace it while the adhesive cures. Caulk the top seam where the backsplash meets the wall with silicone for a waterproof seal.

Repairing Edges with Laminate Countertop Edge Banding

If you had to make a straight cut on a side that wasn’t factory-finished (for example, cutting a counter to fit perfectly into a niche):

Trimming: Use specialized, thin strips of matching laminate material called edge banding. Trim the banding slightly longer than the edge you are covering.
Ironing On: Most modern edge banding has a heat-activated glue. Use a household iron set to medium heat. Press the iron onto the banding, moving slowly and steadily to melt the glue underneath.
Trimming Excess: Once cool, use a sharp chisel or a specialized edge banding trimmer to carefully trim the excess material flush with the top and bottom surfaces. Sand lightly if needed.

Phase 4: Reinstalling Fixtures

The final stage is putting the plumbing and appliances back where they belong.

Installing the Sink

Apply Sealant: Run a generous, continuous bead of 100% silicone caulk around the rim of the sink basin where it will meet the new countertop surface.
Set the Sink: Gently lower the sink into the cutout.
Secure Clips: From underneath, attach the sink mounting clips. Tighten them evenly, just until they are snug. Do not overtighten, as this can warp the sink or crack the laminate beneath it.
Reconnect Plumbing: Reattach the P-trap, drain lines, and faucet supply lines. Hand-tighten fittings, then give them a quarter turn with a wrench. Check carefully for leaks after turning the water back on.

Installing the Cooktop (If Applicable)

If you dropped in a separate cooktop:

Sealing: Apply silicone caulk around the perimeter of the cooktop cutout opening on the underside of the counter.
Drop In: Set the cooktop in place.
Fasten: Secure it using the manufacturer’s provided clips and screws from beneath the counter.

Maintenance for Your New Laminate

To keep your new counter looking great, follow these simple care tips.

Activity	Recommended Action	Avoid This Action
Daily Cleaning	Wipe spills immediately. Use mild dish soap and water or non-abrasive cleaner.	Abrasive scrub pads, steel wool, or highly acidic cleaners.
Heat Protection	Always use trivets or hot pads for hot pots and pans.	Placing very hot items directly on the laminate surface.
Cutting	Use cutting boards for all food prep.	Cutting directly on the counter surface.
Longevity	Address any chipped areas promptly using a laminate repair kit.	Allowing water to pool near seams or cut edges.

Deciphering Common Issues During Replacement

Even with careful planning, small problems can pop up. Here is how to handle them.

Dealing with Seams

What if my laminate countertop seam repair looks uneven? If the seam is slightly proud (one side sticks up higher than the other), you can sometimes gently sand the high spot down using a sanding block with very fine-grit sandpaper (like 320 grit). Go slowly and evenly. If the seam is gapped, clean it out and fill it with a color-matched acrylic sealant made for laminate.

When the Countertop Won’t Sit Flat

If the new counter rocks even after checking for shims, the issue is often the cabinet frame itself being slightly warped or twisted from age.

If the counter rocks side-to-side, you need to adjust the leveling feet or add shims under the cabinets themselves.
If the counter bows slightly in the middle, you may need to install a support brace screwed into the back of the cabinets running wall-to-wall, underneath the center of the span.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Laminate Replacement

Q: How long does a typical DIY laminate countertop replacement take?

A: For an average-sized kitchen (L-shape or straight run), expect the laminate countertop removal and installing new laminate countertops process to take one full weekend, maybe longer if you need extensive plumbing rework or complex cuts. Give yourself two days minimum.

Q: Do I have to remove my sink before replacing the counter?

A: Yes, almost always. Whether you have an undermount (which is rare for laminate but possible) or a drop-in sink, the sink must be detached, disconnected, and removed first. The counter must be completely free before lifting it off the cabinets.

Q: Can I use an existing sink with new laminate counters?

A: Yes, you can often reuse your existing drop-in sink. Just clean it thoroughly before setting it into the new laminate top. Make sure the sink’s dimensions match the cutout size of your new countertop, or be prepared to carefully adjust the cutout using a jigsaw.

Q: Is it better to glue or screw laminate countertops down?

A: For standard laminate countertops, screwing from the cabinet base up is the primary method of securing them. Adhesives are generally only used to bond the backsplash to the back of the main counter or to secure very long seam joints temporarily. Do not rely solely on glue.

Q: What is the best way to hide a seam in laminate?

A: The best way is to use a factory-finished, precision-cut edge that joins tightly (a tight butt joint). If you must fill a small gap, use a seam filler kit designed specifically for laminate that matches your counter color. Avoid standard silicone caulk in the main seam line.