How Do I Change My Kitchen Faucet: A Guide

Yes, you absolutely can change your kitchen faucet yourself! Changing a kitchen faucet is a common DIY faucet replacement project that most homeowners can tackle with basic tools and a little patience. If you are looking to upgrade kitchen faucet models or simply need to replace kitchen sink faucet due to leaks, this guide will walk you through every step, from preparation to testing the final seal. We will cover everything you need to know to successfully install new kitchen tap hardware.

Preparing for Your Faucet Swap

Good prep work makes the job much easier. Before you start trying to remove old kitchen faucet components, gather your supplies and clear the workspace.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Having the right equipment on hand prevents frustrating trips to the hardware store halfway through the job.

New Faucet Assembly: Ensure it matches your sink’s hole configuration (single-hole, three-hole, etc.).
Basin Wrench: This specialized tool is crucial for reaching tight spots under the sink.
Adjustable Wrench or Pliers: Needed for supply line connections.
Bucket and Old Towels/Rags: To catch spilled water.
Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from debris.
Screwdriver Set: Phillips and flathead might be needed for mounting hardware.
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk: To seal the base of the new faucet.
Flashlight or Headlamp: Cabinets under the sink are dark!
Safety Gloves (Optional): Keep your hands clean and protected.
Penetrating Oil (Optional): Helpful if old nuts are rusted tight.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

This is the most critical first step in any plumbing repair kitchen faucet job. You must stop the water flow before disconnecting kitchen water supply lines.

Locate Shutoff Valves: Look directly under the sink basin. You should see two small valves—one for hot water (usually on the left) and one for cold water (usually on the right).
Turn Off the Water: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them past their stopping point.
Test the Lines: Turn on the old faucet handles (both hot and cold) above the sink. Only a small amount of residual water should drip out. If water continues to flow strongly, you have not closed the main valves properly.
Consider the Main Shutoff (If Needed): If you cannot find under-sink valves, or if they don’t work, you must disconnect kitchen water supply at the main shutoff valve for your house. This will turn off water everywhere, so plan accordingly.

Removing the Old Kitchen Faucet

Taking out the old fixture can sometimes be the hardest part of the process, especially if the faucet has been in place for many years. This step is key to the best way to change kitchen faucet successfully.

Clearing the Workspace

Empty everything from under the sink cabinet. You need as much room as possible to maneuver your tools and body. Place towels and your bucket directly beneath the connections you will be working on.

Disconnecting Supply Lines

The supply lines connect the faucet to the shutoff valves.

Identify Lines: Determine which line is hot and which is cold.
Use Wrenches: Hold the shutoff valve steady with one wrench. Use the adjustable wrench or pliers to turn the connection nut on the supply line counter-clockwise. Be ready for a little water to leak out when the connection breaks.
Drain Excess Water: Allow the lines to drain into your bucket.

If you are planning to swap out bathroom faucet parts or need to work on similar small lines, the technique is the same: turn the supply valve off, then loosen the connection nut.

Removing Mounting Hardware

This is where the basin wrench truly earns its keep. The mounting nuts hold the entire faucet assembly tightly against the bottom of the sink or countertop.

Locate Nuts: Look up underneath the sink where the faucet base meets the surface. You will see large nuts or mounting brackets secured by bolts.
Loosen the Nuts: Fit the jaw of your basin wrench around the mounting nuts. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen them. If they are very tight or rusted, apply a small amount of penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes before trying again.
Remove Mounting Brackets: Once the nuts are loose, slide off any mounting plates or washers.

Freeing the Old Faucet Body

With the water lines and mounting hardware gone, the faucet assembly is only held in place by sealant.

Cut the Sealant (If Necessary): If caulk or old putty is holding the faucet base to the sink deck, use a utility knife to carefully cut around the edges of the base plate on top of the sink.
Lift Out the Faucet: From above the sink, gently pull the old faucet straight up and out of the holes.
Clean the Surface: Use a plastic scraper or soft cloth to remove all traces of old putty, caulk, or grime from the sink surface where the new faucet will sit. A clean surface ensures a good seal for your new fixture.

Installing the New Kitchen Faucet

Now it’s time to install new kitchen tap hardware. Take your time reading the instructions provided with your specific faucet model, as mounting systems vary widely.

Pre-Assembly Steps

Some modern faucets require you to install parts onto the faucet body before putting it into the sink holes.

Attach Supply Lines: If your new faucet did not come with supply lines pre-attached, screw the new flexible supply lines onto the threaded connections coming out of the faucet base now. Hand-tighten them, then use a wrench to give them a quarter-turn more. Do not overtighten.
Install Deck Plate (If Applicable): If you are moving from a three-hole sink to a single-hole faucet, you will use the provided deck plate (escutcheon) to cover the extra holes.

Sealing the Base

A good seal prevents water from seeping under the faucet base and causing damage.

Apply Sealant: Most modern faucets use a rubber gasket that sits directly on the sink deck. If yours uses a gasket, skip the putty. If your instructions call for plumber’s putty or silicone caulk, apply a thin, consistent bead around the bottom edge of the faucet base or the deck plate.
Position the Faucet: Carefully thread the supply lines and faucet shank(s) down through the hole(s) in the sink deck. Ensure the faucet is perfectly centered and facing the correct direction (spout facing forward).

Securing the Faucet from Below

This is the reverse of removal. It requires patience while working in the cramped space.

Install Mounting Hardware: From under the sink, slide the supplied washer(s) and mounting nut(s) up over the threaded shaft(s) of the faucet.
Hand Tighten: Get the nuts finger-tight first to hold the faucet steady.
Align and Tighten: Use your basin wrench to tighten the mounting nuts securely. It is vital that the faucet doesn’t wobble. However, do not crank down too hard, as this can damage the sink surface, especially if it is porcelain or thin stainless steel.
Check Alignment Again: Double-check from above that the faucet handle or spout hasn’t moved while you were tightening underneath. Adjust if necessary before the final tightening pass.

Connecting the Water Lines

The final step in making your plumbing repair kitchen faucet system functional is reconnecting the water.

Attaching Supply Lines to Shutoff Valves

Connect the new flexible supply lines to the corresponding shutoff valves.

Hot to Hot, Cold to Cold: Match the lines to the correct valves.
Secure Connections: Hand-tighten the compression nuts onto the valve threads. Then, use your adjustable wrench to tighten them securely, about one-half to three-quarters of a turn past finger-tight. Again, be careful not to strip the threads or overtighten.

Installing the Sprayer Hose (If Applicable)

If you have a pull-down or side sprayer, you must now install its hose and weight.

Connect Hose to Faucet Shank: This usually involves snapping the sprayer hose onto a quick-connect fitting underneath the faucet body. Listen for a solid click.
Attach the Weight: Clip the provided counterweight onto the lowest part of the sprayer hose loop. This weight ensures the sprayer retracts properly after use.

Testing the New Faucet Installation

Do not skip this crucial testing phase. A slow leak ignored now can turn into a big flood later.

Restoring Water Flow Slowly

Ensure Faucet Handles are Closed: Make sure the handles on the new faucet are in the fully “off” position.
Open Shutoff Valves: Slowly turn the hot and cold shutoff valves counter-clockwise to restore the water supply. Turn them slowly at first.
Listen and Watch: As the water pressure returns, check all connection points under the sink immediately. Use a dry paper towel to feel around the nuts you tightened on the supply lines and the mounting hardware. If you see or feel water immediately, shut the supply back off and gently tighten that specific connection another small turn.

Flushing the Lines

Once you confirm there are no major leaks under the sink, you must flush the new system. New faucets often have debris or protective coatings inside that need washing out.

Remove Aerator: Unscrew the aerator tip (the screen at the very end of the spout).
Run Water: Turn on both the hot and cold water fully for several minutes. This flushes out any sediment from the lines.
Check Pressure: Observe the water flow. If the pressure seems low, turn the water off, screw the aerator back on, and check the flow again. If it’s still low, the aerator might be clogged with debris already. Remove and rinse it.

If you successfully completed all these steps, congratulations! You have managed your DIY faucet replacement and successfully installed your new fixture.

Deciphering Common Faucet Installation Issues

Even when following guides, things can go wrong. Here are solutions to frequent hurdles encountered when you change kitchen sink mixer tap components.

Issue 1: Faucet Won’t Seal to the Sink Deck

If water drips underneath the base even after tightening the mounting hardware, the seal is broken.

Cause: Insufficient or uneven sealant, or a warped mounting surface.
Solution: Remove the faucet again. If using putty, apply a slightly thicker bead. If using a rubber gasket, ensure it is seated perfectly flat. If you need to upgrade kitchen faucet on an old sink that is slightly dented, you may need a high-quality silicone sealant rather than putty.

Issue 2: Supply Lines Don’t Reach

The new faucet’s lines might be shorter than the old ones, or the shutoff valves are positioned awkwardly.

Cause: Mismatched line lengths.
Solution: You will need to purchase new, flexible supply lines that are long enough. When buying, measure the distance from the shutoff valve up to the faucet intake threads and purchase lines slightly longer than that measurement.

Issue 3: The Old Mounting Nuts Will Not Budge

Rusted or corroded nuts can make removing the old fixture impossible with standard tools.

Cause: Corrosion over time.
Solution: Apply a quality penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) directly to the threads above the nut. Let it soak for at least 30 minutes, reapplying if necessary. If it still won’t turn, you may need to use a specialized tool like a reciprocating saw with a thin metal-cutting blade to carefully cut the nut in half, being extremely careful not to touch the sink or the supply lines.

Issue 4: Low Water Pressure After Installation

If the flow is weak, it is usually restricted at the faucet itself.

Cause: Debris in the aerator or clogged cartridge.
Solution: Remove and clean the aerator first. If pressure is still low, turn off the water, disconnect the supply lines from the faucet base, and briefly run the water supply into a bucket (with the faucet handles open). If the water flows normally into the bucket, the blockage is inside the faucet body or cartridge. Check your manual for cartridge cleaning instructions, or contact the manufacturer.

Selecting the Right Faucet for Your Needs

When you decide to upgrade kitchen faucet, choosing the correct type is as important as the installation itself.

Faucet Style	Hole Configuration Needed	Best For	Key Feature
Single-Handle Mixer	1 or 3 Holes (with deck plate)	Ease of use, modern look	Temperature and flow controlled by one lever.
Two-Handle Faucet	3 Holes	Traditional aesthetics, precise temperature setting	Separate handles for hot and cold water.
Pot Filler (Wall-Mounted)	N/A (separate installation)	Convenience over the stovetop	Fills large pots without moving them to the sink.
Pull-Down/Pull-Out	1, 2, or 3 Holes	Versatility for rinsing large sinks or spraying counters	Hose retracts directly into the spout head.

If you are looking to simplify your sink setup, swapping a three-hole faucet for a modern single-handle model is a great way to upgrade kitchen faucet. You will use the deck plate mentioned earlier to cover the unused holes.

If you are replacing an older fixture in a bathroom and want to know how to swap out bathroom faucet, the principles are identical: shut off water, disconnect supply lines, remove mounting hardware, and secure the new fixture. Kitchen faucets are often larger, but the mechanics are the same.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it usually take to change a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer, it can take 1 to 2 hours. For a beginner tackling the removal of an old, stuck faucet, plan for 3 to 4 hours.

Q: Do I need to solder pipes when I change my kitchen faucet?
A: No. Modern kitchen faucets use flexible supply lines with compression fittings that screw directly onto your existing shutoff valves. Soldering is not required for this type of plumbing repair kitchen faucet job.

Q: What if my shutoff valves are old and leaking when I try to close them?
A: If the valves leak when you try to close them, you must shut off the main water supply to your house immediately. At this point, it is often best to replace the old shutoff valves along with the faucet, or call a professional plumber to handle the valve replacement before proceeding with the faucet installation.

Q: Is plumber’s putty or silicone caulk better for sealing the new faucet base?
A: Silicone caulk creates a stronger, longer-lasting, waterproof seal, especially good for granite or stone countertops. Plumber’s putty is traditional and easier to clean up later but can sometimes be softened by harsh detergents or aged finishes. Always follow your new faucet manufacturer’s specific recommendation.