How To Change Kitchen Faucet: Easy DIY Guide

Yes, you absolutely can change your kitchen faucet yourself! Replacing an old kitchen faucet is a very common DIY home repair project. With the right tools and a bit of patience, most homeowners can successfully install kitchen faucet models without calling a plumber. This guide walks you through every step, from shutting off the water to getting your new tap running smoothly.

Preparing for Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement Project

Before you start wrenching under the sink, good preparation saves a lot of time and frustration. Think of this phase as setting the stage for success.

Selecting the Right New Faucet

Choosing the new faucet is the first big step. Faucets come in many styles, like the popular single handle faucet installation types or the classic two handle faucet replacement models.

Measure these key things first:

Holes in the Sink or Countertop: Count how many holes your current setup uses (one, two, three, or four). Your new faucet must match this setup, or you might need a deck plate installation to cover extra holes.
Spout Height and Reach: Make sure the new faucet fits well in your sink basin and can reach all corners of the sink.
Installation Type: Decide if you want a side spray or a pull-down sprayer design.

Gathering Essential Tools

Having the right gear makes the job much easier. You will need more than just basic tools for working in tight spaces.

Tool Name	Primary Use	Importance Level
Adjustable Wrench	Tightening/loosening supply lines.	High
Basin Wrench (or Under Sink Wrench)	Reaching nuts in cramped areas behind the sink.	Very High
Pliers (Slip-joint or Channel Lock)	Gripping various pipes and fittings.	Medium
Safety Glasses	Protecting your eyes from drips and debris.	High
Bucket and Old Towels	Catching residual water when disconnecting lines.	High
Flashlight or Headlamp	Seeing clearly in the dark cabinet space.	High
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk	Sealing the base of the new faucet.	Medium
Utility Knife or Scraper	Removing old caulk or putty.	Low

Step 1: Turning Off the Water Supply

This is the most crucial step. Never try to take off old pipes or loosen fittings until the water is completely off.

Locating the Plumbing Shut-off Valves

Most kitchen sinks have dedicated shut-off valves located directly underneath the sink, usually mounted on the wall or the cabinet floor.

Identify the Valves: Look for two small handles or knobs—one for hot water (often marked red) and one for cold water (often marked blue).
Turn Off the Flow: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop turning. Do not force them past their stopping point.
Test the Faucet: Turn on the old faucet handles in the sink. If water trickles out and then stops completely, you have successfully shut off the main supply to the faucet. If water still flows freely, you may need to shut off the main water supply to your entire house.

Draining Remaining Water

Even after turning the valves, water remains in the lines.

Open the old faucet fully to release any remaining pressure and drain the lines.
Place your bucket and towels directly under the supply line connections.

Step 2: How to Remove Old Faucet Components

Working underneath the sink cabinet is often the hardest part due to tight spaces and awkward angles. Use your headlamp or flashlight to see clearly.

Disconnecting Water Supply Lines

You need to detach the flexible supply lines running from the shut-off valves up to the bottom of the faucet body.

Use the Wrench: Use your adjustable wrench to carefully grip the nut connecting the supply line to the faucet tailpiece (the pipe coming down from the faucet).
Loosen Counter-Clockwise: Turn the nut to the left (counter-clockwise) to loosen it. Have your bucket ready, as a small amount of water will spill out.
Repeat for Both Lines: Disconnect both the hot and cold lines.

Tip: If the connection is heavily corroded or stuck, a little penetrating oil applied an hour before can help loosen it up.

Detaching the Faucet Body

The faucet itself is held onto the sink or countertop by one or more large nuts, called the faucet mounting nut system.

Locate Mounting Hardware: Look up underneath the sink. You will see nuts, washers, or mounting brackets securing the faucet base.
Use the Basin Wrench: This specialized tool is essential here. Its long handle and swivel jaw allow you to reach up and grab the mounting nuts that standard wrenches cannot reach.
Loosen the Nuts: Turn the faucet mounting nut counter-clockwise until it comes off. If you have a very old faucet, this nut might be plastic and could break easily, so turn slowly.
Remove the Deck Plate (If Present): If your old faucet used a deck plate installation to cover extra holes, remove this plate as well.

Lifting Out the Old Faucet

Once all connections and mounting nuts are removed:

Go back up top, above the sink.
Gently lift the entire old faucet assembly straight up and out of the sink holes.
Clean the sink surface thoroughly where the old faucet sat. Scrape off any old plumber’s putty, grime, or mineral deposits using a plastic scraper or soft pad. A clean surface ensures a good seal for the new fixture.

Step 3: Preparing the New Faucet for Install Kitchen Faucet

New faucets often require some assembly before they go into the sink holes. Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, as assembly varies widely between models.

Assembling Components (If Necessary)

For many modern faucets, especially pull-down sprayer types, you might need to:

Attach the flexible spray hose to the main spout body.
Install the weight onto the spray hose (this helps retract the sprayer head).
Attach new supply lines to the faucet body if they were not pre-installed.

Applying Sealant (Putty or Silicone)

The base of the faucet needs a waterproof seal where it meets the sink or countertop.

For Faucets with an Integrated Gasket: Many new faucets come with a thick rubber or foam gasket attached to the bottom plate. If this gasket is present, you usually do not need plumber’s putty or silicone. The gasket handles the seal.
If No Gasket: Roll a thin rope of plumber’s putty and press it firmly around the underside perimeter of the faucet base or the deck plate installation piece. Alternatively, use a bead of 100% silicone caulk for a more permanent seal.

Step 4: Mounting the New Faucet

Now we reverse the removal process, starting from underneath the sink.

Positioning the Faucet

Feed Lines Through: Carefully lower the new faucet body, along with its attached supply lines and tailpieces, through the holes in the sink deck. Make sure the faucet is straight and facing forward.
Seat the Base: Ensure the base (with putty or gasket) sits flush against the sink surface.

Securing the Faucet from Below

This is where the under sink wrench becomes your best friend again, especially for tight fits.

Install Washers and Nuts: From underneath, slide the provided mounting washer(s) and then thread the faucet mounting nut onto the faucet shank.
Hand Tighten First: Push the washer up snugly against the sink bottom and hand-tighten the nut. Make sure the faucet is still straight on top.
Final Tightening: Use your basin wrench or under sink wrench to carefully tighten the faucet mounting nut. Tighten it until the faucet feels completely secure and cannot wiggle. Be careful not to overtighten, especially on plastic components, as this can crack the sink or damage the faucet base.
Check Alignment: Go topside one last time. If the faucet is crooked, slightly loosen the nut, adjust it straight, and then re-tighten securely.

If you are performing a two handle faucet replacement, repeat this securing process for the hot and cold handles, which often require separate mounting nuts. For a single handle faucet installation, there is usually one large mounting system.

Step 5: Connecting the Water Lines

It is time to connect new faucet lines to your existing plumbing valves.

Attaching Supply Lines

New faucets usually come with new supply lines, or the lines are already integrated.

Match Hot and Cold: Connect the supply line marked ‘H’ (Hot) to the hot shut-off valve, and the line marked ‘C’ (Cold) to the cold shut-off valve. Most modern connections are standard ½ inch compression fittings.
Hand Tighten: Thread the compression nuts onto the valve stems by hand first. This prevents cross-threading.
Wrench Tighten: Use your adjustable wrench to tighten the connection another quarter to a half turn. You want it snug, but avoid excessive force. Over-tightening can damage the rubber washer inside the fitting, causing leaks.

Self-Check: If your old faucet used separate flexible hoses, ensure the new flexible hoses reach the valves without kinking or stretching.

Installing the Sprayer Weight (If Applicable)

If you installed a pull-down faucet, now is the time to install the clip-on weight onto the hose loop under the sink. This weight ensures the spray head retracts smoothly back into the spout when released.

Step 6: Testing for Leaks and Finishing Up

This is the moment of truth! Take your time here to ensure everything is sealed properly before you put everything back into the cabinet.

Slowly Restoring Water Pressure

Check All Connections: Double-check every nut and connection you touched underneath the sink one last time.
Slowly Open Valves: Go to the plumbing shut-off valves under the sink. Slowly turn both the hot and cold valves counter-clockwise to open them. Do this slowly so the water pressure builds gradually.
Initial Visual Check: Immediately look for any drips or streams of water around the supply line connections and the faucet mounting nut area. If you see leaks, turn the water off immediately and tighten that specific connection slightly more.

Flushing the New Faucet

Remove the Aerator: Before turning the water on fully, unscrew the small screen (aerator) at the tip of the faucet spout. This prevents debris from clogging it during the first run.
Run the Water: Turn the new faucet on to a medium flow. Run both hot and cold water for several minutes. This flushes out any manufacturing dust, sediment, or debris from the new lines and faucet cartridge.
Check for Leaks Again: While the water is running, inspect all connections under the sink with a dry paper towel. A dry towel makes spotting a tiny drip much easier.
Reinstall Aerator: Turn the water off. Screw the aerator back onto the spout tip.

If everything is dry and flowing well, congratulations! Your replace sink tap job is complete. You can now organize your tools and clean up the cabinet space.

Special Considerations for Different Faucet Types

While the general procedure remains the same, different faucet types require slight modifications.

Single Handle Faucet Installation

Single handle faucets control both volume and temperature with one lever.

Cartridge Focus: The primary focus during assembly is correctly seating the single control cartridge (often pre-installed) into the faucet body base before mounting it.
Alignment: Ensure the handle points toward the “off” or “closed” position when installed.

Two Handle Faucet Replacement

Two handle systems require connecting two separate valve stems up through the sink deck.

Staggered Mounting: Secure the hot and cold handles onto the sink deck, ensuring their mounting points are spaced correctly according to the faucet template.
Line Routing: Pay close attention to routing the hot and cold water lines neatly so they do not cross or pinch when connecting to the shut-off valves.

Deck Plate Installation Nuances

A deck plate installation is used when upgrading from a three-hole faucet to a single-hole model.

Gasket Priority: The deck plate must have a perfect seal, as it covers unused holes. Use plumber’s putty or silicone liberally but neatly under the entire plate edge before screwing it down.
Tightening Order: Tighten the mounting hardware for the plate first, ensuring it is perfectly centered, before mounting the single faucet structure on top of it.

Maintaining Your New Faucet

To keep your new fixture looking and working great, follow these simple maintenance tips.

Monthly Cleaning: Wipe down the exterior with mild soap and water. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch finishes.
Quarterly Aerator Check: Unscrew the aerator every few months. Rinse out any sediment that has collected inside. This keeps water flow strong.
Annual Valve Check: Once a year, gently check the tightness of the plumbing shut-off valves under the sink. A slight turn clockwise can prevent them from seizing up over time.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it usually take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A: For a first-timer working at a steady pace, the entire process, including removing the old unit and installing the new one, usually takes between two to four hours. If the old faucet is extremely old or corroded, expect the removal phase to take longer.

Q: What if my old faucet doesn’t have shut-off valves underneath?
A: If you cannot find dedicated plumbing shut-off valves under the sink, you must turn off the main water supply valve to your entire house. This valve is usually located near the water meter, in the basement, or sometimes outside near the street curb.

Q: Can I use silicone caulk instead of plumber’s putty?
A: Yes. Plumber’s putty is traditional and easy to clean up later, but it does not cure hard. Silicone caulk creates a stronger, more durable waterproof seal, which is often preferred, especially for stone or porous countertops. If using silicone, ensure the area is completely dry before application.

Q: Why is my new faucet leaking from the base after installation?
A: A leak at the base usually means the seal isn’t good. Check if you forgot to install the rubber gasket that came with the faucet, or if the faucet mounting nut is not tight enough to compress the gasket or putty properly against the sink. Turn off the water and re-secure the mounting hardware.