Easy Guide: How Do You Replace A Kitchen Sink Faucet

Replacing a kitchen sink faucet is a common home repair project that most homeowners can tackle with basic tools and some patience; yes, you can absolutely replace your kitchen sink faucet yourself, often saving money on a plumber’s visit. This guide walks you through every step, from shutting off the water to turning on the fresh flow from your new install kitchen faucet.

Getting Ready: Preparation is Key

Before you start ripping out the old fixture, good preparation saves time and avoids big messes. Think of this phase as setting the stage for a successful DIY faucet replacement.

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies

You will need specific items to successfully replace sink tap. Make sure everything is within easy reach before you look under sink plumbing.

Essential Tools Checklist:

Basin wrench (This is critical for reaching tight spots.)
Adjustable wrench or a set of open-end wrenches
Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead)
Pliers (Channel locks are often useful)
Utility knife or putty knife (for scraping old sealant)
Safety glasses
Bucket and old towels or rags
Flashlight or work light
Plumber’s putty or silicone sealant

New Parts Needed:

The new kitchen faucet assembly
New supply lines (optional, but highly recommended if old ones look worn)
Thread sealant tape (Teflon tape)

Shutting Off the Water Supply

This step is non-negotiable. You must stop the water flow before you touch any lines.

Locate Shut-Off Valves: Look under sink plumbing for the hot and cold water shut-off valves, usually located right below the sink basin.
Turn Them Off: Turn both valves clockwise until they are completely closed.
Drain Remaining Water: Turn on the old faucet handles (both hot and cold) above the sink. Let the water run until it stops. This releases pressure in the lines.
Confirm Water is Off: Check the faucet one last time. No water should drip out.

Step One: How to Remove Old Faucet Components

The process of taking out the old plumbing fixture installation can sometimes be the trickiest part. Corrosion and tight spaces make this challenging.

Disconnecting the Water Supply Lines

These lines run from the shut-off valves up to the base of your old faucet.

Place the Bucket: Put your bucket directly under sink plumbing where the lines connect to the valves. This catches any residual water.
Loosen Connections: Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts where the supply lines connect to the shut-off valves. Turn counter-clockwise. Keep a firm grip on the valve body with the other hand so you don’t accidentally damage the pipes leading into the wall or floor.
Disconnect from Faucet: If your faucet has flexible lines connected directly to the faucet shank, you may need a basin wrench to reach the connection points up near the faucet body.

Detaching the Faucet from the Sink Deck

This is where the basin wrench shines. The faucet is held down by large nuts or mounting brackets underneath the sink basin.

Locate Mounting Hardware: Shine your light under sink plumbing. You will see large nuts or screws holding the faucet in place.
Use the Basin Wrench: Fit the jaws of the basin wrench onto the largest nut holding the faucet base down. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to loosen. This often requires significant effort, especially if it’s old.
Remove Clips or Screws: Some modern faucets use mounting brackets held by two screws instead of a single large nut. Use a screwdriver or socket wrench to remove these.
Lift Out the Old Faucet: Once all mounting hardware is off, go above the sink. Carefully lift the old faucet straight up and out of the mounting holes. You might need to wiggle it gently.

Cleaning Up the Sink Surface

Old sealant leaves gunk behind. A clean surface ensures a good seal for the new unit.

Scrape Away Old Material: Use a putty knife or utility knife to gently scrape away old plumber’s putty or silicone sealant from the sink deck around the holes. Be careful not to scratch stainless steel or porcelain.
Wipe Down: Clean the area thoroughly with an all-purpose cleaner and dry it completely.

Step Two: Preparing the New Faucet for Installation

Every faucet is slightly different. Always check the manufacturer’s guide that came with your new fixture before proceeding.

Assessing New Components

Your new kit likely includes:

The faucet body
A deck plate (escutcheon), if you are covering extra holes
New mounting hardware (nuts, washers, brackets)
New flexible supply lines (sometimes they are pre-attached)

Installing the Deck Plate (If Needed)

If your new faucet is a single-hole model but your sink has three holes (standard setup), you need the deck plate.

Apply Sealant: Roll a thin rope of plumber’s putty—about the thickness of a pencil—and place it around the underside perimeter of the deck plate. Alternatively, some manufacturers suggest using a thin bead of silicone sealant.
Position Plate: Carefully set the deck plate onto the sink holes, aligning it correctly.

Attaching Supply Lines (If Not Pre-Attached)

If the flexible supply lines did not come attached to the faucet body, you must thread them in now, before mounting the faucet.

Apply Teflon Tape: Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the inlet ports on the faucet body two or three times. This helps create a watertight seal.
Hand-Tighten Lines: Screw the new supply lines onto the faucet ports. Hand-tighten first, then use a wrench for a final quarter-turn. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the connection points or the lines themselves.

Step Three: Mounting the New Fixture

Now it’s time to get the main plumbing fixture installation into place. Work slowly and carefully from above the sink.

Placing the Faucet into Position

Feed Lines Through: Guide the supply lines and the faucet shank(s) down through the hole(s) in the sink deck (over the deck plate, if used). Ensure the faucet is facing the right direction (spout facing forward).
Seat the Faucet: Gently press the faucet base down onto the sealant you applied. Wiggle it slightly to ensure the sealant spreads evenly.

Securing the Faucet from Below

This step secures the unit firmly and is crucial for preventing leaks. This is where tightening faucet nuts comes into play.

Install Gasket and Washer: Under sink plumbing, slide the rubber gasket and then the metal washer up onto the threaded shank(s) of the faucet.
Thread the Mounting Nut: Screw the mounting nut(s) onto the shank(s). Hand-tighten first.
Align and Tighten: Adjust the faucet above the sink so it is perfectly straight. Use your basin wrench to fully tighten the mounting nut(s). You need it tight enough so the faucet doesn’t spin, but do not crank down excessively, as you could crack a porcelain sink. A firm, secure fit is what you aim for.

Sealing Kitchen Faucet Base

If you used plumber’s putty, excess putty will squeeze out when you tightened the nut.

Remove Excess Putty: Use your putty knife or rag to wipe away all the excess putty squeezed out around the base of the faucet deck plate.
Silicone Alternative: If you opted for silicone sealant instead of putty, let it cure according to the manufacturer’s directions before using the sink.

Step Four: Connecting the Water Supply Lines

This phase completes the connect new sink faucet process. Accuracy here prevents future leaks.

Connecting to Shut-Off Valves

Match Hot and Cold: Make sure the hot line (usually marked red or labeled ‘H’) connects to the hot shut-off valve, and the cold line (blue or ‘C’) connects to the cold valve. Mixing them up means your hot water handle will dispense cold water, which is inconvenient but usually not damaging.
Use Teflon Tape: Wrap the threads on the shut-off valve spigots with Teflon tape (clockwise wrapping).
Wrench Tightening: Attach the supply line nuts to the valves. Hand-tighten them, then use your adjustable wrench for a final snug turn. Again, be firm but not overly forceful.

Installing the Spray Hose and Weight (If Applicable)

If your new faucet has a pull-down sprayer, you need to install the hose and clip the counterweight onto it.

Connect Hose: Snap or screw the sprayer hose connector onto the quick-connect fitting coming from the main faucet body under sink plumbing.
Attach Weight: Clip the provided counterweight onto the lowest part of the hose loop. This weight helps retract the sprayer head smoothly back into the spout when you are done using it.

Step Five: Testing and Final Checks

The moment of truth! You need to test your work thoroughly before declaring the DIY faucet replacement complete.

Releasing Water Pressure Slowly

Check Connections Again: Before turning any water on, visually inspect every connection you made: the mounting nuts, the supply line connections at the valves, and the connection to the faucet body.
Turn Valves On Slowly: Go back under sink plumbing. Slowly turn the hot and cold shut-off valves counter-clockwise to turn the water back on. Listen for any immediate spraying sounds. If you hear water spraying, turn the valves off right away and go back to tighten that specific connection.
Check for Leaks: With the valves open, look closely at all connections under sink plumbing for drips. Use a dry rag to feel around the connections.

Testing the Faucet Operation

Test Flow: Turn the new faucet on fully (both hot and cold). Let the water run for several minutes. This flushes out any debris that might have entered the lines during installation.
Check Sprayer (If Applicable): Test the sprayer function to ensure the hose retracts well and the diverter works.
Final Leak Inspection: Run the water at full blast and keep checking under sink plumbing for slow drips over the next 15 minutes. If you see any slow drips forming around the mounting nuts, try tightening them slightly more. If drips appear at the supply line connections, tighten those nuts just a bit more.

Faucet Replacement Considerations Beyond the Kitchen

While this guide focuses on the kitchen sink, the general principles apply to a bathroom faucet replacement as well. The main differences are usually the size of the fixture and the complexity of the drain linkage.

Key Differences in Bathroom Faucet Replacement:

Pop-Up Drain Assembly: Bathroom sinks usually have a lift rod connected to a linkage that operates the drain stopper. When you remove old faucet, you must also disconnect this linkage rod carefully. When you install kitchen faucet, this assembly is usually absent, as kitchen sinks use basket strainers instead.
Size and Space: Bathroom sinks often offer even less room under sink plumbing than kitchen sinks, making the basin wrench even more essential.

Troubleshooting Common Installation Issues

Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly on the first try. Here are solutions to common hurdles during the connect new sink faucet stage.

Problem	Likely Cause	Quick Fix
Faucet spins freely after tightening faucet nuts.	Mounting nut is not tight enough or the friction washer is missing.	Turn off water, ensure the friction washer is present, and use the basin wrench to tighten the nut firmly.
Water leaks slightly where the supply line meets the shut-off valve.	Threads are not sealed, or the connection is loose.	Turn off water, unthread the line, apply 2-3 wraps of Teflon tape clockwise, and retighten snugly.
Cannot get the old faucet nuts to budge.	Heavy corrosion or mineral buildup.	Apply penetrating oil (like WD-40) to the threads and let it sit for 30 minutes before trying the basin wrench again.
New faucet drips from the spout after being fully installed.	Debris is stuck in the cartridge or aerator.	Remove the aerator at the tip of the spout, flush the faucet for a minute, and then reinstall the aerator.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Do I need a plumber to replace my kitchen faucet?
A: Not usually. If you are comfortable working in tight spaces and using basic hand tools, a DIY faucet replacement is achievable. It requires patience, especially when remove old faucet hardware.

Q: How long does it typically take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer, the process can take as little as one hour. For a first-timer, budget three to four hours to account for unexpected difficulties like rusted hardware or having to maneuver under sink plumbing in an awkward position.

Q: What is plumber’s putty used for when I install kitchen faucet?
A: Plumber’s putty is used to create a watertight seal between the base of the faucet (or deck plate) and the sink surface. It fills any tiny gaps, preventing water from seeping beneath the fixture.

Q: My new faucet has flexible lines, but they seem too short to reach the valves. What should I do?
A: If the new lines don’t reach, you should purchase longer braided stainless steel supply lines of the correct length and thread size, rather than attempting to force the existing ones. Always ensure you get the right connection types for both your new faucet and your existing shut-off valves.

Q: Is it better to use silicone or plumber’s putty for sealing kitchen faucet base?
A: Many modern faucet manufacturers recommend silicone sealant because it hardens and offers a more durable, permanent seal, especially on composite or granite sinks. Plumber’s putty is softer, easier to clean up, and preferred for sinks made of porcelain or stainless steel where easy removal might be desired later.