You can stop a dripping kitchen faucet by turning off the main water supply, taking the faucet apart, finding the worn-out part—usually a washer or cartridge—and replacing it with a new one. This simple guide will walk you through the steps to fix leaky faucet issues quickly and affordably.
A leaky faucet is more than just annoying; it wastes a lot of water. That slow drip, drip, drip adds up fast. You might think you need a plumber, but often, you can solve kitchen faucet drip problems yourself with basic tools. This article will show you how to repair dripping tap systems in most common kitchen faucets. We will cover the common causes and the exact steps needed to silence that annoying sound and stop running faucet noise for good.
Tools You Need Before You Start
Before you begin to fix leaky faucet problems, gather your supplies. Having the right tools makes the job much easier. You do not need many fancy items.
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
- Screwdriver set (flathead and Phillips)
- Pliers
- Utility knife or small pick (for removing caps)
- White vinegar (for cleaning mineral buildup)
- Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new faucet cartridge replacement)
- Towel or rag
Step 1: Shutting Off The Water Supply
This is the most important first step. Never start working on a faucet before you tighten loose faucet parts or replace anything without turning the water off.
Locating the Shut-Off Valves
Look under your kitchen sink. You should see two small knobs or handles coming out of the wall or floor pipe. One controls the hot water, and the other controls the cold water.
- Turn both valves clockwise until they are tight. This shuts off the water flow to the faucet.
- Turn on the faucet handles above the sink. This lets out any remaining water pressure in the lines. Let it run until the water stops completely. This confirms the water is off.
If you cannot find these local shut-off valves, you must turn off the main water supply to your entire house. This is usually near your water meter or where the main line enters your home.
Step 2: Identifying Your Faucet Type
Faucets are not all the same. The way you repair dripping tap depends heavily on what kind of faucet you have. There are four main types common in kitchens:
| Faucet Type | How It Works | Common Leak Source |
|---|---|---|
| Compression | Uses rubber washers pressed against a valve seat to stop water flow. | Worn-out rubber washers. |
| Cartridge | Uses a movable stem or cartridge that controls the flow. | Worn O-rings or a cracked cartridge. |
| Ball | Uses a rotating metal or plastic ball with slots inside. | Springs, seals, or the ball itself. |
| Ceramic Disc | Uses two very hard ceramic discs that slide against each other. | Seals around the disc assembly. |
Most modern faucets are cartridge style because they are more reliable than older compression types. If your faucet is old and has separate hot and cold handles, it is likely a compression faucet needing a washer replacement faucet.
Step 3: Disassembling The Faucet Handle
You need to get inside the faucet body to access the parts causing the leak. This process varies slightly by faucet type.
Removing Handle Caps and Screws
- Look for a small decorative cap on top of the handle (often marked H or C). Use a thin flathead screwdriver or utility knife to gently pry this cap off. Be careful not to scratch the handle finish.
- Beneath the cap, you will find a screw. Use the correct screwdriver to remove this screw. Keep the screw safe!
- Pull the handle straight up and off the faucet body. If it sticks, you may need to gently wiggle it or use a handle puller tool, though this is rare for simple dripping issues.
Exposing the Valve Stem or Cartridge
Once the handle is off, you will see the mechanism that controls the water.
- Compression Faucets: You will see a packing nut holding the stem in place. Use an adjustable wrench to carefully loosen and remove this nut. Then, you can unscrew or lift out the entire valve stem assembly.
- Cartridge Faucets: You will likely see a retaining clip (often brass or plastic) holding the faucet cartridge replacement unit in place. Use needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver to pull this clip straight up. Once the clip is removed, you can lift the cartridge straight out. Be sure to note its orientation—it must go back in the exact same way.
Step 4: Locating and Fixing The Cause of The Drip
This is where we diagnose why the faucet is leaking and take action to solve kitchen faucet drip.
Case A: Compression Faucets and Washer Replacement Faucet
If you have a compression faucet, the culprit is almost always the washer at the bottom of the stem assembly.
- Inspect the Washer: Look at the bottom tip of the stem you removed. There will be a small screw holding a rubber washer in place.
- Remove the Old Washer: Unscrew the brass screw and remove the old, likely hardened or cracked, rubber washer.
- Replace the Washer: Take the old washer to a hardware store to find an exact match. When installing the new washer, seat it firmly. If the screw is corroded, replace it too.
- Check the O-Rings: While the stem is out, check the O-rings around the stem body. These prevent water from leaking around the handle. If they look flat or cracked, replace them too. This helps stop running faucet problems at the handle base.
- Inspect the Seat: Look down into the faucet body where the stem sits. This is called the valve seat. If this surface is rough or pitted, the new washer won’t seal properly. You may need a special tool called a seat dresser to smooth it, or you might need a faucet valve replacement if the seat is heavily damaged.
Case B: Cartridge Faucets and Faucet Cartridge Replacement
Cartridge faucets rarely use simple washers; they rely on the entire cartridge assembly.
- Inspect the Cartridge: Look closely at the plastic or brass cartridge you removed. Check the small rubber O-rings located around the body of the cartridge. If these O-rings are brittle or cut, they allow water to pass.
- Replacement is Best: For cartridge faucets, it is usually easiest and most effective to perform a full faucet cartridge replacement. It is rare that you can effectively replace just the O-rings without causing future issues.
- Buying the Right Part: Take the old cartridge to the store. Faucet brands use proprietary designs, so you must find an exact match for your brand (Moen, Delta, Kohler, etc.).
- Installation: Insert the new cartridge, making sure any tabs or keyways line up perfectly with the faucet body housing. Reinsert the retaining clip securely.
Case C: Ball and Ceramic Disc Faucets
These types are less common for simple drips but require specific service kits.
- Ball Faucets: These use a spring-loaded rubber seal system. If the drip persists, you usually need to replace the entire spring and seal assembly found in a repair kit specific to that ball faucet model.
- Ceramic Disc Faucets: These are very durable. If they drip, the inlet seals beneath the disc cartridge are usually the problem. Replacing the entire disc assembly is the standard procedure for a silent dripping faucet fix.
Step 5: Cleaning and Reassembly
Once you have installed the new parts, cleaning the components prevents future problems and helps you tighten loose faucet connections securely.
Cleaning Mineral Deposits
Water minerals (calcium and lime) cause rough surfaces and seal failures.
- Soak any metal parts you removed (stems, nuts) in a cup of white vinegar for about 30 minutes.
- Gently scrub off any scale buildup using an old toothbrush or soft cloth. This improves the seal integrity, which is key to a successful repair dripping tap job.
Putting It All Back Together
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, but take care with how tightly you fasten things.
- Insert the newly repaired stem or faucet cartridge replacement unit back into the faucet body.
- If using a compression stem, screw the packing nut back on. Tighten it just enough to feel snug, but do not overtighten it, or you will crush the new washer. Overtightening prevents the faucet from turning smoothly and can cause premature wear.
- Replace the handle, screw it down, and snap the decorative cap back on.
Step 6: Testing Your Repair
Once everything is back in place, it is time to test your work to see if you managed to stop running faucet action.
- Go back under the sink. Slowly turn the hot and cold water shut-off valves counter-clockwise to turn the water back on.
- Wait a moment, then turn the faucet on fully, letting the water run for about 30 seconds. This flushes out any debris that might have entered the line during the repair.
- Turn the faucet off completely.
- Watch the spout carefully. If the drip is gone, congratulations! You have successfully fixed the leak. If a small drip remains, it means the problem wasn’t fully addressed, or you may need a faucet valve replacement or a better seal.
Deep Dive: Addressing Specific Leak Locations
Sometimes the leak isn’t coming from the spout but from the handle base or the spout base itself. Here is how to address those:
Leaks Around the Handle Base
If water oozes out from under the handle when the water is running, the issue lies with the packing nut or the O-rings around the stem/cartridge.
- Compression Faucets: If you have a compression faucet, try tighten loose faucet packing nut slightly. If that doesn’t work, replace the packing string or O-rings on the stem.
- Cartridge Faucets: If a cartridge faucet leaks here, the O-rings around the cartridge body are the issue. Replacing the entire cartridge often solves this, or you can carefully remove the old O-rings and lubricate the new ones with plumber’s grease before reinserting the cartridge.
Leaks Around the Spout Base (Swivel Spout)
If water drips or pools where the spout meets the main body of the sink, the spout O-rings are the problem.
- Remove the spout. This often involves removing a retaining nut or clip at the base or sometimes unscrewing the whole assembly from the top after removing the handles.
- Inspect the O-rings at the bottom of the spout tube. They will likely be worn flat.
- Replace these O-rings. It is crucial to coat the new O-rings liberally with plumber’s silicone grease. This reduces friction and creates a much better seal, helping you stop running faucet problems originating from the base.
Advanced Fixes: When Simple Replacement Isn’t Enough
Sometimes, even a new washer or cartridge does not solve the problem. This points toward deeper component failure, often necessitating a faucet valve replacement.
Dealing with Corroded Valve Seats
As mentioned, in older compression faucets, the valve seat itself can become pitted due to constant friction and water erosion.
- Using a Seat Grinder/Dresser: This tool mounts inside the faucet body. You turn the tool to grind away the rough metal, making the surface smooth again. This must be done carefully to avoid removing too much metal. This service is essential for a complete repair dripping tap job on worn-out systems.
Issues with Single-Handle Faucets (Ball or Cartridge)
If a single-handle faucet drips after a new cartridge is installed, the problem might be the water inlet ports in the faucet housing itself.
- If the plastic housing of the faucet body is cracked, no amount of internal part replacement will fix it. In this rare but severe case, the entire faucet fixture must be replaced. This is the final step when all efforts to solve kitchen faucet drip fail.
Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Dripping
Once you successfully manage to fix leaky faucet issues, regular maintenance will keep your faucet running smoothly for years.
- Handle Gently: Do not slam faucet handles shut. Constant forceful closing wears out rubber parts faster.
- Regular Cleaning: Wipe down the faucet regularly. If you see white mineral deposits starting to form, soak a rag in vinegar and wrap it around the spout tip for an hour.
- Check for Loose Parts Annually: Every six months, check the handles to ensure they are securely fastened. A slightly tighten loose faucet screw can prevent a future leak before it starts.
- Know Your Parts: Keep the brand and model number of your faucet handy. If you need a faucet cartridge replacement in five years, knowing the model saves hours of searching.
Summary of How to Stop A Dripping Kitchen Faucet
Stopping a drip involves a systematic approach. You must isolate the water, disassemble the handle, identify the faulty component (washer, O-ring, or cartridge), replace it with the correct part, clean the assembly, and reassemble carefully. Whether you are performing a simple washer replacement faucet service or opting for a full faucet cartridge replacement, taking your time ensures you achieve that satisfying silent dripping faucet fix. If the drip persists after these steps, consider that the valve seat or the faucet housing itself may require professional attention or a full faucet valve replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Why is my faucet dripping even after I replaced the washer?
A: If you just performed a washer replacement faucet job and the drip continues, the problem is likely the valve seat. The old washer wore out because the metal seat underneath it was rough or pitted. The new washer cannot form a perfect seal against the damaged metal. You need to clean or grind the valve seat smooth, or perform a faucet valve replacement if the seat is too damaged.
Q: How much does it cost to fix a dripping faucet?
A: Fixing a dripping faucet yourself is very cheap. Replacement washers, O-rings, or even a new generic cartridge usually cost between \$3 and \$20. The main cost is your time. If you call a plumber to repair dripping tap, labor rates typically start around \$100 to \$200 for a service call.
Q: Can I use plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) on a faucet drip?
A: Plumber’s tape is used on threaded pipe connections to prevent leaks, not on internal sealing surfaces like washers or cartridges. Applying it to the stem threads might help tighten loose faucet handles slightly, but it will not solve kitchen faucet drip coming from the spout. You need to focus on replacing the internal seals.
Q: My single-handle faucet drips, but I replaced the cartridge. What now?
A: If a new faucet cartridge replacement didn’t work, check the springs and seals beneath the ball assembly (if it’s a ball faucet) or examine the connection point of the cartridge itself. Sometimes, debris gets lodged under the new cartridge, or the entire faucet body housing is compromised. If the drip persists, you might need a full faucet valve replacement of the entire unit.
Q: Is it better to replace the whole faucet or just repair the internal parts?
A: If the faucet is very old (15+ years) or if the external finish is already worn, replacing the entire fixture is often a better long-term investment. If the faucet is relatively modern (under 10 years old) and only one internal seal is bad, a simple washer replacement faucet or faucet cartridge replacement is more cost-effective and avoids dealing with plumbing under the sink if you are replacing the whole unit.