How To Build Cabinets Kitchen: Easy Tutorial

Can I build my own kitchen cabinets? Yes, you absolutely can build your own kitchen cabinets. Building custom kitchen cabinetry is a rewarding project that saves money and allows you to tailor your space perfectly. This guide offers an easy tutorial for DIY kitchen cabinet construction, covering everything from planning to the final touches. We will focus on simple, strong cabinet making techniques perfect for the ambitious beginner.

Gathering Your Tools and Materials for Building Kitchen Storage

Before starting, make sure you have the right gear. Good tools make the job much easier and safer. You will need tools for cutting, measuring, and joining wood.

Essential Tool List

Tool Category	Specific Tools Needed	Purpose
Measuring & Marking	Tape measure, ruler, combination square	Accurate sizing is key.
Cutting	Circular saw, miter saw, table saw (optional but helpful)	For cutting cabinet boxes and doors.
Drilling & Joining	Power drill, countersink bit, clamps	For assembling the boxes securely.
Finishing	Sandpaper (various grits), orbital sander	To prepare surfaces for paint or stain.

Core Material Choices

The materials you pick affect the look and lifespan of your cabinets. For simple, strong cabinets, plywood is a great choice.

Cabinet Boxes: Use high-quality 3/4-inch plywood (cabinet-grade birch or maple is best). This wood holds screws well.
Back Panels: Use thinner 1/4-inch plywood for the cabinet backs.
Face Frames: Use solid wood (like pine or hardwood strips) for the frame edges.
Hardware: Drawer slides, hinges, and handles.
Adhesive: Wood glue is vital for strong joints.

Step 1: Planning Your Kitchen Cabinet Plans

Good plans are the secret to success. Do not skip this step. You must measure your space precisely.

Measuring Your Space

Measure the length, depth, and height of every area where a cabinet will go.

Measure the wall length where the base cabinets sit.
Measure the wall length where the wall cabinets hang.
Note the distance from the floor to the bottom of your wall cabinets (usually 54 inches from the floor, allowing 18 inches between countertop and wall cabinet).
Check for any obstacles like windows, outlets, or pipes.

Creating Your Kitchen Cupboard Design

Decide on the size and style of each unit. Standard base cabinets are usually 24 inches deep (including the door). Wall cabinets are often 12 inches deep.

Standard Base Depth: 24 inches (box depth).
Standard Wall Depth: 12 inches (box depth).
Standard Base Height: 34.5 inches (this allows for a 1.5-inch countertop later).

Sketch out your design. Decide which cabinets will be drawers and which will have simple shelves. This drawing is your blueprint for building kitchen storage.

Step 2: Cutting Plywood for Cabinet Boxes

Accuracy in cutting is crucial for square and strong boxes. This is where precision matters most.

Calculating Box Dimensions

Remember that plywood thickness (3/4 inch) affects the final size.

If you want a cabinet box that is 24 inches wide:
* If using Butt Joints (Simple Method): The total width will be 24 inches. The sides will be 24 inches minus the thickness of the front frame or front edge banding.
* If using Dado/Rabbet Joints (Stronger Method): The side panels must be cut to account for the top and bottom panels sitting between them.

For this easy tutorial, we will focus on the simpler butt joint method reinforced with glue and screws, which works well with woodworking for kitchen cabinets.

Cutting the Panels

Use a circular saw with a straight edge guide for long, straight cuts on the plywood sheets.

Cut the Sides (2 pieces per base cabinet): Determine the height (e.g., 34.5 inches) and depth (e.g., 23.25 inches to allow for a 0.75-inch face frame later).
Cut the Top and Bottom (1 piece each): These panels will fit between the sides. Their width equals the desired interior width of the box.
Cut the Back Panel (1 piece): This is thin plywood, cut to the outside dimensions of the assembled box.

Tip for Better Results: If you have access to a table saw, use it for ripping edges. It provides cleaner, more accurate cuts than a handheld saw.

Step 3: Assembling the Cabinet Boxes

This section covers the core of cabinet assembly instructions. We will use pocket hole joinery or simple butt joints reinforced with glue. Pocket holes offer a strong, hidden screw connection, which is one of the best methods for building cabinets for beginners.

Preparing for Joinery (Pocket Holes)

If using pocket holes:

Drill pocket holes along the edges of the top and bottom panels. These holes will connect these pieces to the inside edges of the side panels.
Use a countersink bit where screws will enter the outside of the side panels if you are attaching a face frame later.

Step-by-Step Assembly Process

Lay out the pieces: Place one side panel flat on your workbench, inside face up.
Apply Glue: Run a bead of wood glue along the edges where the top and bottom pieces will attach. Glue provides the primary strength.
Attach Top and Bottom: Align the top and bottom panels with the side panel. Drive pocket hole screws through the pre-drilled holes, pulling the pieces tightly together. Clamp as you screw if possible.
Attach the Second Side: Apply glue to the exposed edges of the top and bottom panels. Place the second side panel on top. Clamp and drive screws to complete the basic box frame. Ensure the box is perfectly square using a framing square before the glue dries.
Attaching the Back Panel: Square the box one last time. Place the thin back panel onto the back edges of the box. Drive small nails or short screws around the perimeter, ensuring the back panel keeps the box perfectly square. This adds significant rigidity.

Step 4: Building and Attaching Face Frames

The face frame covers the rough edges of the plywood and provides a sturdy mounting surface for doors and drawers. This is essential for professional-looking custom kitchen cabinetry.

Cutting the Face Frame Components

Face frames consist of two vertical stiles (sides) and two horizontal rails (top and bottom).

Stiles: Should be the same height as the cabinet box.
Rails: The top rail should fit exactly between the stiles. The bottom rail often sits flush with the bottom edge of the cabinet box.

Use solid wood for these pieces (e.g., 1×2 lumber).

Assembling the Face Frame

Lay the stile and rail pieces face down on a flat surface.
Use glue and strong fasteners. Pocket holes are excellent here, or use biscuits if you have a biscuit joiner for alignment. Ensure the frame is perfectly square before fastening.

Attaching the Frame to the Box

Apply glue to the front edges of the plywood box.
Place the assembled face frame onto the box.
Clamp the frame tightly to the box. The frame should overlap the box edges evenly (usually about 1/4 inch overhang on the top and sides is common).
Secure the frame using screws driven from the inside of the cabinet box into the face frame stiles and rails. Ensure the screws do not penetrate through the front face! Use countersunk screws here.

Step 5: Constructing Drawers for Kitchen Cabinet Construction

Drawers must be strong, especially in a kitchen environment. Building kitchen storage relies heavily on good drawer construction. We will use the simple 5-piece drawer box construction.

Drawer Box Materials

Drawer boxes are usually made from 1/2-inch plywood or solid wood boards. Drawer bottoms are typically 1/4-inch plywood.

Cutting Drawer Components

For each drawer:

Two Sides
Front and Back
Bottom Panel

If using a standard drawer slide (which sits on the bottom edge of the drawer sides):

The sides should be the same height.
The bottom panel needs a groove (dado) cut into the sides, front, and back to hold it snugly. This locks the drawer square.

Drawer Assembly (The Dado Method)

Cut a groove (dado) about 1/4 inch up from the bottom edge on the inside face of the side, front, and back pieces.
Apply glue to the joints.
Assemble the four sides using screws driven through the outside of the sides into the front and back pieces.
Slide the 1/4-inch bottom panel into the grooves.
Secure the back panel with screws. The bottom panel locks the box square.

Step 6: Installing Drawer Slides and Hinges

Proper hardware installation makes the difference between smooth operation and frustration. Follow the cabinet assembly instructions provided by the hardware manufacturer closely.

Installing Drawer Slides

Most modern slides require the slide to be mounted to the inside wall of the cabinet box.

Mark the Position: For standard slides, measure up from the bottom of the cabinet box opening. Usually, you need two marks—one for the cabinet member and one for the drawer member.
Cabinet Member: Attach the wider cabinet portion of the slide to the side wall of the cabinet box using the recommended screws. Make sure the slide is level and positioned correctly relative to the drawer opening height.
Drawer Member: Attach the narrower drawer portion of the slide to the outside of the drawer box, making sure it is parallel to the drawer bottom.

Installing Hinges (For Doors)

For modern European-style (concealed) hinges, the cup is drilled into the back of the door, and the mounting plate screws onto the inside wall of the cabinet box.

Door Drilling: Use a Forstner bit to drill the hinge cup hole (usually 35mm) into the door panel, ensuring it’s the correct distance from the edge (usually 37mm or 52mm).
Mounting Plate: Screw the mounting plate onto the inside of the cabinet box according to your hinge manufacturer’s guide for adjustment.
Attaching: Clip the hinge arm onto the mounting plate.

Step 7: Finishing and Installing Kitchen Cabinets

Once the boxes are built and hardware is attached, it’s time for the final steps: finishing and hanging them up.

Preparing for Finish

Sand all cabinet boxes and doors/drawer fronts thoroughly. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and move up to 220-grit. Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth.

Painting: Apply primer first. Then apply two thin coats of high-quality cabinet paint.
Staining: Apply wood conditioner (if needed for soft wood) followed by your stain. Wipe off excess stain evenly. Finish with a durable clear coat (polyurethane or lacquer).

Installing Kitchen Cabinets

Installing kitchen cabinets is best done with two people. Base cabinets must be installed before wall cabinets.

Base Cabinet Installation

Layout: Place the first base cabinet (usually the one that meets a wall or another cabinet) in its final location. Use shims under the cabinet feet or bottom edges to get it level side-to-side and front-to-back.
Plumb and Level: Use a long level to ensure the cabinet is perfectly plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal). Adjust the shims as needed.
Secure to Wall: Locate the wall studs behind the cabinet’s top plate or back rail. Drive long construction screws (3-inch or longer) through the cabinet’s back/top rail and into the studs. Do not overtighten, or you will warp the cabinet box.
Joining Cabinets: Place the next cabinet next to the first. Clamp the two cabinets tightly together at the top and middle edges. Drill pilot holes and drive cabinet joining screws (usually 2 or 3 per connection point) through the sides of the first cabinet into the second.

Wall Cabinet Installation

Wall cabinets must be securely attached to wall studs, as they bear heavy loads.

Determine Height: Mark the height line for the bottom of the wall cabinets (usually 54 inches from the finished floor).
Install Ledger Board (Recommended): For ease, screw a temporary 1×3 board level onto the wall studs, directly beneath your height line. This board supports the weight while you work.
Hang the First Cabinet: Lift the cabinet and rest its back edge on the ledger board. Check that the cabinet is plumb and level. Drive screws through the cabinet back into the studs at the top and bottom.
Join Adjacent Cabinets: Clamp the next wall cabinet to the first. Ensure they are flush at the front edge. Drive joining screws through the sides as done with base cabinets.
Remove Ledger: Once all cabinets are secured and joined, carefully remove the temporary ledger board.

Deciphering Door and Drawer Front Attachment

The final aesthetic piece is attaching the door and drawer fronts. This is where fine adjustments happen.

Drawer Fronts

Drawer fronts are typically attached after the drawer boxes are installed with their slides.

Place the drawer box into the cabinet opening.
Place the drawer front onto the box, ensuring even gaps (reveals) around the edges. Temporary double-sided tape or small clamps can hold it in place.
From inside the drawer box, drive screws through the box front into the back of the decorative drawer front piece. Adjust the position until the reveal spacing looks perfect.

Cabinet Doors

If you used concealed hinges, the doors are already clipped on. Now you adjust them for perfect alignment using the adjustment screws on the hinge plate.

Side-to-Side Adjustment: Moves the door left or right.
In-and-Out Adjustment: Moves the door closer to or further from the cabinet frame.
Up-and-Down Adjustment: Moves the door vertically.

Take your time here. Perfect alignment of doors and drawers makes the entire project look professional. This completes the core of DIY kitchen cabinet construction.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How deep should kitchen cabinets be?

Standard base cabinets are 24 inches deep, including the door or drawer front. Wall cabinets are typically 12 inches deep, but sometimes deeper cabinets are used over refrigerators or microwaves. Always check clearances for walkways and appliance sizes.

What is the easiest joint for building kitchen cabinets?

For beginners, the simplest strong joint is the reinforced butt joint, using wood glue and screws (especially pocket screws). While dado or rabbet joints are structurally stronger, pocket holes are faster to execute with common tools and provide excellent hold when paired with glue.

Do I need a face frame on my cabinets?

Yes, face frames are highly recommended for woodworking for kitchen cabinets. They cover the rough plywood edges, provide a strong surface to hang doors and drawer slides, and give the cabinet a finished, traditional look.

How do I ensure my cabinets are level when installing?

Always use a long level (at least 4 feet long). For base cabinets, use shims placed under the cabinet base until the bubble is centered both front-to-back and side-to-side. For wall cabinets, secure them to studs and check level before driving the final screws.

Can I build cabinets using MDF instead of plywood?

You can use Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) for boxes if you plan to paint the cabinets. MDF takes paint very well. However, MDF is very heavy and does not hold screws as well as plywood, especially when subjected to the constant opening and closing of doors and drawers. Plywood is generally the preferred material for durability in building kitchen storage.