How To Change A Kitchen Faucet: Step-by-Step

Can I change a kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you absolutely can change a kitchen faucet yourself with basic tools and a little patience. This guide will walk you through every step for installing a new kitchen faucet smoothly.

Getting Ready for Faucet Replacement

Replacing a sink faucet might seem hard. It is not! Many homeowners can do this job. It saves money too. We will help you prepare well. Good prep makes DIY kitchen faucet installation much easier.

Choosing Your New Faucet

Before you start removing the old one, pick your replacement. Faucets come in many styles. Think about how your sink is set up.

Single Handle vs. Double Handle Faucet Replacement

This is a big choice. Do you want a single handle vs. double handle faucet replacement?

Single Handle: Mixes hot and cold water easily with one lever. They look modern. They are often simpler to clean.
Double Handle: Has separate handles for hot and cold. Some people like the classic look. They can offer more precise temperature control.

Check how many holes your sink or countertop has. Modern faucets might need one hole. Older sinks might have three or four. You might need a base plate (escutcheon) if you are covering extra holes.

Gathering the Best Tools for Faucet Replacement

Having the right tools stops frustration. Gather everything before you turn off the water.

Tool Name	Why You Need It
Basin Wrench	Reaches tight spaces under the sink. Essential for removing old kitchen faucet nuts.
Adjustable Wrench or Pliers	To loosen and tighten supply line connections.
Safety Glasses	Protects your eyes from falling debris or drips.
Bucket and Old Towels	To catch water when disconnecting lines.
Flashlight or Headlamp	Under-sink areas are often dark.
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk	To seal the base of the new faucet to the sink.
Screwdriver (Phillips and Flathead)	For removing handles or mounting clips sometimes.
Utility Knife	To cut away old caulk or putty.

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

Safety first! You must stop the water flow. If you skip this, you will have a flood.

Locating the Shutoff Valves

Look directly under your sink cabinet. You should see two small valves. One is for hot water (usually on the left). One is for cold water (usually on the right).

Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them too hard.
Test the old faucet. Turn on both hot and cold water at the handles. Little or no water should come out. A small drip is okay.

Depressurizing the Lines

Even after shutting the valves, water stays in the lines.

Turn the old faucet handles to the full ‘on’ position (both hot and cold).
Let the water drain completely. This releases pressure.
Leave the handles open for the rest of the work.

Step 2: Removing the Old Faucet

This is often the trickiest part of replacing a sink faucet. Old parts can be stuck due to rust or mineral buildup.

Disconnecting the Water Lines

Place your bucket and towels right under the connections.

Use your adjustable wrench or pliers. Hold the shutoff valve steady with one hand.
Loosen the supply line nuts connecting the faucet tubes to the shutoff valves. Turn counter-clockwise.
Some water will drip out. Let it fall into your bucket.
Once disconnected, gently move the supply lines out of the way.

Disconnecting Sprayers and Hoses (If Applicable)

If your old faucet has a side sprayer or a pull-down hose:

Look for the hose connection beneath the sink deck.
Use your wrench to disconnect this line from the main faucet body underneath.
If it’s a pull-down faucet, you may need to unclip or unscrew the weight attached to the hose.

Loosening the Faucet Mounting Hardware

The faucet is held onto the sink by large nuts or clips from below. This is where the basin wrench shines.

Get under the sink basin. Shine your light where the faucet enters the sink deck.
Locate the mounting nuts or screws. They secure the kitchen sink plumbing fixture.
Fit the basin wrench around the nut. Turn the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. It might take significant effort.
If the nuts are seized, spray them lightly with penetrating oil (like WD-40). Wait 15 minutes before trying again.

Lifting Out the Old Fixture

Once all connections and nuts are removed, the faucet should be loose.
Go above the sink. Gently lift the old faucet straight up and out of the mounting holes.
Scrape off any old plumber’s putty, caulk, or grime from the sink surface using the putty knife or utility knife. Clean the area thoroughly. A clean surface is vital for the new seal.

Step 3: Preparing the New Faucet

Your new faucet comes with parts. Read the manufacturer’s guide closely. Every brand installs slightly differently.

Attaching Supply Lines (If Not Pre-Attached)

Many modern faucets come with supply lines already connected to the faucet body.

If yours are separate, thread the new hot and cold supply lines into the faucet base. Hand-tighten them first. Then, give them a small turn with a wrench to ensure a snug fit. Do not overtighten.

Installing the Gasket and Base Plate

Place the new gasket (a rubber ring) onto the bottom of the new faucet body. This seals the gap between the faucet and the sink.
If you are covering extra holes, place the escutcheon (base plate) over the holes now, with its gasket underneath.

Mounting the Faucet Shank

Feed the new faucet’s tailpieces (where the water lines connect) and any spray hose lines down through the hole(s) in your sink deck.
Make sure the faucet is facing the correct direction above the sink. You can adjust this before tightening.

Step 4: Securing the New Faucet

This secures the faucet firmly to the sink.

Installing the Faucet Mounting Hardware

Work from underneath the sink again.

Slide the rubber washer, followed by the metal washer, up onto the faucet’s threaded shank(s).
Thread the mounting nut onto the shank. Hand-tighten it first.
Use your basin wrench or the specialized tool provided by the manufacturer to tighten the nut.
Critical Check: Before final tightening, check the alignment of the faucet above the sink. Is the spout pointing straight forward? Once you tighten it fully, it cannot be easily moved. Tighten until the faucet does not wobble, but avoid crushing the sink material.

Sealing the Base (Optional but Recommended)

Some modern gaskets are excellent seals. Others benefit from extra sealing material.

If your faucet did not come with a heavy rubber gasket, apply a thin bead of plumber’s putty or silicone caulk around the base plate or directly under the faucet base before setting it down in Step 3.

Step 5: Connecting a Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

Now we link the faucet to the home’s water source.

Connecting to Shutoff Valves

Take the new faucet’s hot supply line (usually marked red or for the left valve).
Connect the end of this line to the corresponding hot shutoff valve.
Use your adjustable wrench to tighten the connection gently. Make it snug, but do not muscle it. Overtightening these compression fittings can cause leaks or damage the valve seat.
Repeat this process for the cold water line.

Installing Weights and Hoses (For Pull-Down Faucets)

If you have a pull-down sprayer, there is one more crucial connection.

Attach the weight provided with your kit to the loop of the faucet hose. The weight helps the sprayer retract smoothly into the spout.
Place the weight about 6 to 8 inches above the bottom curve of the hose loop when the sprayer is fully extended into the sink. Follow the manual for exact placement, as it varies by model.

Step 6: Final Checks and Testing

The moment of truth! Do not turn the water on fully right away.

Purging Air and Checking for Leaks

Ensure the new faucet handles are in the “Off” position.
Slowly turn the hot and cold shutoff valves back on (turn them counter-clockwise). Listen and watch for immediate leaks at the supply line connections. If you see drips, turn the water off quickly and gently tighten that specific connection a tiny bit more.
Once the lines are open and drip-free, turn the faucet handles on (both hot and cold) fully.
Let the water run for several minutes. This clears air pockets from the lines. The water might sputter at first. This is normal.
Watch all connections under the sink one last time while the water runs hard. Look for drips near the shutoff valves and where the supply lines meet the faucet shank.

Testing Functionality

Test the hot and cold temperatures.
Test the spray feature if you have one.
If you installed a single handle faucet, check that it moves smoothly through its range of motion.

Troubleshooting Common Installation Issues

What if things go wrong during installing a new kitchen faucet?

The Leak Under the Sink

If you have a drip:

At the valve connection: The connection is loose. Turn off the water. Tighten the nut slightly. Test again.
At the faucet body: The mounting nut might be too loose, or the gasket didn’t seal well. Turn off the water. Tighten the mounting nut. If the leak persists, you might need to remove the faucet, apply plumber’s putty under the base, and remount it.

Faucet Handle Feels Loose or Stiff

Stiff Movement: The mounting hardware under the sink might be overtightened, pinching the faucet body. Slightly loosen the main mounting nut.
Loose Handle (Single Handle): Most single-handle faucets have a small set screw (often under a plastic cap on the handle base) that needs tightening to secure the lever onto the cartridge stem.

Water Flow is Weak

This usually means air is still trapped, or debris entered the lines during the switch.

Let the water run for longer (up to 10 minutes).
If it remains weak, check the aerator (the screen at the tip of the spout). Unscrew it and check if any grit is caught inside. Rinse it clean.

When to Call a Professional

While DIY kitchen faucet installation is often straightforward, some situations require expert help. If you are fixing a leaky kitchen faucet that is decades old, the shutoff valves themselves might be corroded and fail to close completely. If you cannot turn the water off safely, stop immediately and call a licensed plumber. Also, if your sink material (like granite or porcelain) cracks during tightening, a professional plumber or installer should handle the final steps.

Deciphering Faucet Types and Installation Nuances

The way you approach installation changes based on your faucet design.

Ball-Type Faucets (Common in Older Single-Handle Models)

These use a slotted metal or plastic ball to control flow and temperature. When replacing a sink faucet of this type, pay close attention to the spring assemblies and rubber seats inside the faucet body if you are repairing instead of replacing. For a full replacement, the installation process remains similar to the steps above, focusing heavily on securing the base plate correctly.

Cartridge Faucets (Most Common Modern Type)

These use a self-contained plastic or brass cartridge. When installing a new kitchen faucet with a cartridge, ensure the cartridge is seated perfectly according to the manufacturer’s guide before snapping the handle onto it. Misalignment causes leaks or poor temperature control.

Ceramic Disc Faucets

These are highly durable. They use two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control water. These are usually the easiest to install because they require minimal maintenance. The primary focus during installation is ensuring the tight seal between the base and the sink deck, as these systems handle high pressure very well internally.

Maintenance for Longevity

Once your new faucet is installed, simple care keeps it working well.

Wipe down the faucet body frequently with a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the finish.
Periodically check the supply line connections under the sink to ensure they remain tight. A quarter-turn every six months can prevent future leaks.
If you live in an area with hard water, periodically unscrew the aerator and soak it in white vinegar to remove mineral deposits, which restores good flow.

Changing a faucet might feel daunting at first. By breaking the job down—preparation, removal, installation, and testing—you can successfully complete this home improvement project. Mastering the DIY kitchen faucet installation process gives you confidence for future home repairs.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it usually take to change a kitchen faucet?

For an experienced DIYer, replacing a sink faucet can take 1 to 2 hours. For a beginner, especially if the old faucet is rusted or hard to reach, it might take 3 to 4 hours, allowing time for problem-solving.

Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone caulk?

Most modern faucets come with a thick rubber gasket that acts as the primary seal. If the gasket is present and looks thick, plumber’s putty might not be needed. However, if you are installing a faucet onto an uneven surface or want extra insurance against water seeping under the base plate, a thin bead of 100% silicone caulk offers a very strong, waterproof seal.

What if my new faucet requires only one hole but my sink has three?

You need an escutcheon plate (also called a deck plate). This wide metal plate covers the two extra holes while allowing the single-hole faucet to mount securely in the center. Make sure the plate matches the style and finish of your new faucet.

Why is my new faucet leaking after connecting a kitchen faucet?

The most common cause is a loose supply line connection. Turn the water off. Dry the area completely. Then, gently tighten the leaking compression nut a tiny bit more. If the leak is from the base of the faucet (above the sink deck), the mounting hardware is likely too loose, allowing water into the mounting threads.