Can I change a kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you can absolutely change a kitchen faucet yourself by following a clear, step-by-step guide, often found in helpful YouTube videos. This task is very doable for most homeowners. This detailed guide will walk you through everything you need for a smooth kitchen faucet replacement guide. We will cover how to get started, what to take out, and how to put the new one in.
Gathering What You Need for the Job
Before you start watching videos or turning any wrenches, you must have the right gear. Having all your tools needed for faucet replacement ready makes the job much faster. You do not want to stop halfway to run to the store.
Essential Tools Checklist
Here is a list of things you should have on hand. Keep this list close!
- New kitchen faucet (Make sure it fits your sink holes!)
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench (A basin wrench is often a lifesaver for tight spots.)
- Pliers (Channel locks are great for gripping.)
- Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead might be needed.)
- Bucket and old towels or rags (Water will spill.)
- Safety glasses (Protect your eyes from drips and falling debris.)
- Flashlight or headlamp (It is dark under the sink!)
- Plumber’s putty or silicone caulk (For sealing the base.)
- Teflon tape (Also called pipe thread tape.)
- Utility knife or putty knife (To scrape off old sealant.)
Having these items ready will help you successfully complete your DIY sink tap installation.
Phase 1: Preparing the Area and Shutting Off Water
Safety first! You must stop the water flow before you touch any pipes. This step is crucial when removing and installing kitchen tap fixtures.
Finding and Turning Off the Water Supply
Look under your sink. You will see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor. These control the hot and cold water going to your faucet.
- Locate the Shutoff Valves: Find the hot (usually on the left) and cold (usually on the right) shutoff valves.
- Turn Off the Water: Turn both handles clockwise until they stop. Do not force them if they are very stiff. If they do not turn or look rusty, you may need to turn off the main water supply to your house first.
- Test the Lines: Turn on the old faucet handles above the sink. A little water might drip out, but the flow should stop completely. This proves the water is off.
Clearing the Workspace
The space under the sink is usually cramped and dirty. Make room for yourself and your tools.
- Remove everything from under the sink cabinet. Put cleaning supplies or trash elsewhere.
- Place your bucket directly under the water lines you will be disconnecting.
- Lay down towels to catch spills. A headlamp is highly recommended here.
Phase 2: Taking Out the Old Faucet
This is often the hardest part of the job—getting the old unit out. You must master how to remove old faucet hardware that has been stuck in place for years. Corrosion can make these nuts very tight.
Disconnecting the Water Supply Lines
The faucet has flexible hoses (supply lines) connecting it to the shutoff valves.
- Use the Wrench: Choose your adjustable wrench or pliers. Hold the shutoff valve steady with one hand if needed.
- Loosen the Nuts: Turn the compression nuts on the supply lines counter-clockwise. Be ready for a small amount of water trapped in the lines to drip into your bucket.
- Disconnect Both Lines: Carefully detach both the hot and cold faucet supply line connection from the valves.
Dealing with Mounting Hardware
The faucet is held to the sink or countertop by large nuts or screws from underneath. This is where the under sink wrench use comes into play.
- Identify the Fasteners: Look up at the underside of the faucet base. You will see one or two large nuts or a mounting bracket held by screws.
- Using the Basin Wrench: A basin wrench has a long handle and a gripping jaw perfect for reaching these nuts in tight spaces. Place the jaw around the nut.
- Turn Counter-Clockwise: Slowly turn the basin wrench counter-clockwise to loosen the mounting nuts. If they are stuck, spray a little penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait ten minutes. Patience helps here!
- Remove the Hardware: Once the nuts are loose, remove the entire mounting assembly.
Lifting Out the Old Fixture
With the water lines and mounting nuts gone, the faucet should be free.
- Lift Gently: Go up top and gently pull the old faucet straight up and out of the sink holes. Sometimes old plumber’s putty or caulk holds the base down.
- Clean the Surface: Use your utility knife or putty knife to carefully scrape away all the old putty, caulk, and grime from the sink surface where the old faucet sat. A clean surface is vital for a good seal with the new unit. Wipe the area thoroughly dry.
Phase 3: Installing the New Faucet System
Now for the fun part: Installing new kitchen faucet plumbing! Read your new faucet’s manual carefully, as designs vary greatly.
Pre-Assembling Components (If Necessary)
Many modern faucets come partially assembled. However, you might need to attach the deck plate (escutcheon) or install new supply lines onto the faucet body before setting it in place.
- Check Hoses: If your new faucet did not come with lines attached, screw the new supply lines onto the faucet base now. Hand-tighten them first, then give a quarter turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten plastic or brass fittings.
- Applying Sealant: This step ensures no water seeps under your fixture. This is key to sealing new kitchen faucet base.
- Option A (Gasket): If your new faucet has a thick rubber gasket for the base, you may not need putty or caulk. Just set the gasket down on the cleaned sink surface.
- Option B (Putty/Caulk): If there is no gasket, roll a thin rope of plumber’s putty and press it firmly around the bottom edge of the faucet base or deck plate.
Setting the New Faucet in Place
Carefully lower the new faucet body through the hole(s) in your sink or countertop.
- Positioning: Make sure the faucet is straight and facing the correct direction before tightening anything.
- Securing from Below: Go back under the sink. Slide the mounting washer(s) and securing nut(s) onto the faucet shank.
- Tightening: Use your basin wrench or the special tool supplied with your faucet to tighten the mounting nuts. Tighten them firmly, but stop when you feel strong resistance. Over-tightening can crack porcelain sinks or damage countertop material. Check above the sink to ensure the faucet hasn’t shifted while you tightened it.
Connecting the Water Lines
This involves making the faucet supply line connection to your home’s shutoff valves.
- Identify Lines: Match the new supply lines (hot to hot, cold to cold) to the corresponding shutoff valves under the sink.
- Apply Teflon Tape: Wrap a few layers of Teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the shutoff valve threads before attaching the supply line nuts. This helps create a tight seal.
- Hand Tighten First: Screw the supply line nuts onto the valves by hand until they are snug.
- Final Tightening: Use your wrench to gently tighten the nuts another quarter to half turn. Be very careful not to crush the fittings.
Phase 4: Final Steps and Testing
You are almost done! It is time to check your work for leaks before you call the job finished.
Installing the Sprayer or Side Spray (If Applicable)
If your new unit has a separate sprayer or soap dispenser, install it now according to the manufacturer’s directions. This usually involves feeding a hose down through an extra hole and connecting it to a quick-connect fitting under the faucet body.
Checking for Leaks
This is the moment of truth for your replacing kitchen mixer tap project.
- Slowly Restore Water: Go back to the shutoff valves under the sink. Slowly turn the handles counter-clockwise to turn the water back on. Do this slowly to avoid sudden pressure surges.
- Immediate Visual Check: While turning the water on, watch the connections you just made. Look closely at the nuts connecting the supply lines to both the faucet and the valves.
- Test the Faucet: Go above the sink and turn on the hot and cold water fully. Let the water run for a minute or two to clear any air from the lines.
- Inspect Underneath Again: While the water is running, use your flashlight to look closely at all connections—especially where the supply lines connect and around the mounting nuts.
- Fixing Small Leaks: If you see a tiny drip at a connection point, try tightening that nut just a little bit more. If the leak persists, you might need to turn the water off, drain the lines, and reapply Teflon tape.
If everything stays dry after five minutes of running water, congratulations! You have successfully completed the removing and installing kitchen tap process. You can now clean up your tools and enjoy your new faucet.
Comparing Faucet Types for Replacement
Different faucets have different installation steps, especially when it comes to the mounting hardware. Knowing what type you are installing helps you find the right video tutorial.
| Faucet Type | Typical Holes Needed | Key Installation Challenge |
|---|---|---|
| Single-Handle Mixer | 1 to 3 | Connecting the cartridge assembly securely. |
| Two-Handle Widespread | 3 (separate handles and spout) | Aligning all three components perfectly. |
| Centerset Faucet | 3 (all in one base plate) | Sealing new kitchen faucet base plate evenly. |
| Pull-Down/Pull-Out | 1 to 4 | Connecting the weighted hose return mechanism correctly. |
Advanced Tips for Tough Removal Jobs
Sometimes, the old faucet is truly cemented in place by rust and mineral deposits. Here are some extra tips for how to remove old faucet hardware that won’t budge.
Dealing with Corroded Nuts
If the mounting nuts are so rusted that the basin wrench slips or won’t grip:
- Rust Penetrating Oil: Apply a generous amount of penetrating oil. Let it soak for hours, or even overnight, re-applying periodically.
- Heat (Use Caution!): For metal nuts (not plastic), you can sometimes use a small handheld propane torch to carefully heat the nut. Heat causes metal to expand, sometimes breaking the rust bond. Never use heat near plastic lines or near flammable materials. Always have a fire extinguisher handy if using this method.
- Cutting the Nut: If all else fails, you may need a specialized oscillating tool with a metal-cutting blade or a small hacksaw to carefully cut the nut in half without damaging the sink threads or the sink itself.
Handling Old Caulk or Putty
If the old faucet body is stuck because of sealant:
- Gentle Prying: With the hardware removed, try rocking the faucet gently side to side.
- Putty Knife Leverage: Carefully slide a very thin putty knife between the faucet base and the sink. Work it around the perimeter, slowly breaking the seal. Do not pry up hard enough to chip the sink surface.
Maintaining Your New Faucet
Once your DIY sink tap installation is complete, a little care keeps it looking great.
- Wipe down the faucet regularly with a soft, damp cloth.
- Avoid abrasive cleaners, as they can scratch the finish.
- Periodically check the faucet supply line connection under the sink—maybe once every six months—to ensure no slow drips have started.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: How long does it usually take to change a kitchen faucet?
A: For someone following a video guide for the first time, the entire process usually takes between one and three hours. The removal of the old faucet often takes the longest time.
Q2: Do I need to shut off the main water supply to the house?
A: Usually, no. You only need to turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves directly under the sink. Only shut off the main house supply if those under-sink valves are broken or do not work.
Q3: What is the specialized tool called that helps reach nuts under the sink?
A: That tool is called a basin wrench or an under sink wrench use tool. It is designed specifically for gripping nuts in tight, hard-to-reach places around plumbing fixtures.
Q4: Can I reuse my old faucet supply lines with a new faucet?
A: It is strongly recommended that you use the new supply lines that came with your new faucet. Old lines might be worn, and connecting them to new fittings can sometimes cause leaks.
Q5: My new faucet has a deck plate. Do I still need plumber’s putty for sealing new kitchen faucet base?
A: Most modern deck plates come with a foam or rubber gasket attached to the bottom. If a gasket is present, you generally do not need plumber’s putty or silicone caulk. Check your faucet’s specific instructions first.