Yes, you absolutely can change your kitchen faucet yourself! Replacing an old, leaky, or outdated kitchen faucet is a very common and manageable faucet replacement DIY project for most homeowners. This guide will walk you through every step needed to successfully install new sink faucet hardware and make your kitchen look brand new.
Getting Ready for Faucet Replacement
Before you start tearing things apart, proper preparation makes the whole job much smoother. Think of this stage as setting the foundation for a great installation.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Gathering everything beforehand saves trips to the hardware store. You need the right gear to remove old faucet parts and secure the new one.
| Tool/Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| New Kitchen Faucet Kit | The main component! Make sure it fits your sink holes. |
| Basin Wrench | Essential for reaching nuts in tight spaces under the sink. |
| Adjustable Wrench or Pliers | For loosening and tightening supply line connections. |
| Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead) | For removing small screws or access panels. |
| Safety Glasses | To protect your eyes from debris or drips. |
| Towels and a Bucket | To catch water when disconnecting supply lines. |
| Headlamp or Work Light | Working under the sink is often dark. |
| Putty Knife or Scraper | To clean old caulk or putty off the sink deck. |
| Silicone Caulk or Plumber’s Putty | For sealing around faucet base effectively. |
| Safety Gloves | Protects your hands from sharp edges. |
Shutting Off the Water Supply
This is the most crucial safety step. Never skip it.
- Locate the Shutoff Valves: Look directly under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves, one for hot water (usually red or marked ‘H’) and one for cold water (usually blue or marked ‘C’).
- Turn Off the Water: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This closes the water flow to the faucet.
- Relieve Pressure: Turn the old faucet on (both hot and cold). Let the water run until it stops completely. This releases any built-up pressure in the lines.
- Check for Leaks: Keep an eye on the valves just in case they drip slightly after shutting them off.
Part One: How to Remove Old Faucet Fixtures
The biggest challenge in a faucet replacement DIY project is often getting the old unit out. Corrosion and tight spaces make this tricky.
Clearing the Workspace
You need space to work.
- Remove everything from under the sink cabinet. This includes cleaning supplies, garbage bins, and any shelving.
- Lay down old towels or plastic sheeting. Even with the water off, some residual water will spill.
- Position your work light so you can clearly see the underside of the sink basin.
Disconnecting the Water Supply Lines
This is where the bucket and towels become your best friends.
- Identify Lines: Find where the flexible supply lines from the faucet connect to the house shutoff valves.
- Use a Wrench: Hold the shutoff valve steady with one hand or a wrench. Use your adjustable wrench or pliers to loosen the coupling nut connecting the supply line to the valve. Turn counter-clockwise.
- Catch Spills: As the line loosens, a small amount of water trapped in the line will drip out. Position your bucket directly beneath the connection point.
- Repeat for Both Lines: Disconnect both the hot and cold supply lines from the valves.
Disconnecting Sprayers and Accessories (If Applicable)
If your old unit has a separate side sprayer or a pull-down hose:
- Sprayer Hose: Follow the hose line down. It usually connects via a quick-connect fitting or a threaded nut to the main faucet body underneath the sink. Disconnect this part.
- Weights: If it’s a pull-down model, find the small weight attached to the hose loop under the sink. Remove the screws or clips holding it in place and set the weight aside.
Removing the Old Faucet Mounting Hardware
This is often the toughest part of the job. The faucet mounting hardware—usually large mounting nuts or brackets—can be rusted tight.
- Locate Mounting Nuts: Look up at the underside of the sink deck where the faucet shank comes through. You will see one or two large nuts, or sometimes a metal bar held by screws.
- Using the Basin Wrench: This tool is designed specifically for this job. Fit the jaw of the basin wrench around the largest nut.
- Turn to Loosen: Turn the wrench counter-clockwise. You might need to apply significant force. If the nuts are very corroded, you may need to spray them with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 minutes before trying again.
- Remove Hardware: Once the nuts are loose, spin them off completely. Keep the mounting bracket, nuts, and any washers you removed; you might need them for reference, though the new unit will come with its own.
Lifting Out the Old Unit
With the water lines and mounting nuts gone, the faucet is free.
- Go above the sink. Gently lift the old faucet straight up and out of the mounting holes.
- If the faucet is stuck due to old caulk or sealant, you may need to use a putty knife to carefully break the seal around the base while pulling up gently from above. This completes the process to remove old faucet fixtures.
Part Two: Preparing the Sink Deck
A clean surface ensures the new faucet sits flush and seals perfectly.
Cleaning the Area
- Scrape Residue: Use your putty knife or plastic scraper to gently remove all traces of old plumber’s putty, silicone, or mineral deposits from the sink surface where the old faucet sat. Be careful not to scratch stainless steel or porcelain sinks.
- Wipe Down: Clean the area thoroughly with rubbing alcohol or a mild cleaner. The surface must be completely dry before you sealing around faucet base with new material.
Preparing the New Faucet
Examine your new faucet box. Some modern faucets come pre-assembled, while others require assembly above the sink.
- Read Instructions: Always review the manual specific to your new unit. Every manufacturer has slight differences in how the faucet mounting hardware is installed.
- Install Base Gasket: Most new faucets come with a rubber or foam gasket that fits between the bottom of the faucet base plate and the sink deck. Place this gasket onto the faucet base now. If your faucet doesn’t have one, you will use plumber’s putty or silicone later.
Part Three: Installing the New Sink Faucet
This is where you install new sink faucet hardware. Working underneath the sink is still required, so keep your light positioned well.
Setting the Faucet in Place
- Feed Lines Through: If your new faucet has supply lines already attached, feed them carefully down through the faucet hole(s) in the sink deck. If the lines are separate, thread them through the appropriate openings.
- Position: From above the sink, align the faucet perfectly. Make sure the spout faces the center of the sink basin and that the handle(s) are correctly oriented (usually facing forward).
- Secure the Base: Hold the faucet steady from above while you move underneath the sink.
Securing the Faucet Mounting Hardware
Proper tightening faucet nuts is essential for stability.
- Install Mounting Components: Slide the rubber gasket, metal washer, and then the mounting nut or bracket up onto the faucet shanks underneath the sink.
- Hand Tighten First: Thread the main mounting nut(s) or securing bracket screws onto the shank by hand until they are snug.
- Align Again (Crucial Step): Before final tightening, go back above the sink. Double-check that the faucet is straight and centered. If it moves now, it will be very difficult to adjust later.
- Use the Basin Wrench: Use your basin wrench or the specialized tool provided in your new faucet kit to tighten the mounting nuts securely. Turn clockwise until the faucet feels absolutely solid and cannot wiggle. Do not over-tighten, as this can crack delicate porcelain sinks.
- Final Check: Tap the faucet gently from above. It should not move at all. This confirms successful tightening faucet nuts.
Installing Sprayer and Weight (If Applicable)
If you are installing a pull-down or pull-out model:
- Connect Hose: Attach the sprayer hose to the connection point on the main faucet body underneath the sink. Ensure the connection clicks or threads securely.
- Attach Weight: Snap or screw the counterweight onto the downward-hanging portion of the sprayer hose. The weight should be placed low enough to ensure the spray head retracts fully, but high enough not to hit the bottom of the disposal or cabinet floor.
Sealing Around Faucet Base
Now you finalize the watertight seal on top.
- Putty or Silicone? Check your faucet manual. Many modern faucets include a gasket and advise against using any extra sealant. If you see gaps or the instructions call for it:
- For Plumber’s Putty: Roll a thin rope of putty and press it around the entire base edge before setting the faucet.
- For Silicone: Apply a thin, even bead of 100% silicone caulk around the base perimeter on top of the sink deck.
Part Four: Connecting Water Lines and Final Testing
With the faucet physically installed, it is time to bring the water back on. This process ensures you have a leak-free experience when you replace kitchen faucet.
Connecting the Supply Lines
You are now connecting water lines to the shutoff valves. Many new faucets come with integrated supply lines that are color-coded (blue for cold, red for hot) or marked.
- Attach to Faucet Shanks: If the lines were separate, connect the hot and cold supply lines to the corresponding shanks coming down from the new faucet body. Hand-tighten first.
- Connect to Valves: Align the other end of the supply lines with the house shutoff valves.
- Tighten Connections: Use your adjustable wrench to gently tighten these connections. Be firm, but stop as soon as you feel solid resistance. Over-tightening these flexible hoses can damage the rubber seals inside.
Testing for Leaks
This is the moment of truth for your best kitchen faucet installation efforts.
- Prepare for Drips: Keep your towels and bucket handy just in case.
- Slowly Restore Water: Go back to the shutoff valves under the sink. Very slowly, turn the hot and cold valves counter-clockwise to open them. Listen for hissing or rushing water that might indicate a large break.
- Inspect Connections (Slowly): Once the water is fully on, immediately use your light to inspect every connection point you touched:
- Where the supply lines meet the shutoff valves.
- Where the supply lines meet the faucet body underneath.
- If you installed a separate sprayer, check that connection too.
- Use a Dry Paper Towel: Press a dry paper towel against each joint. If the towel stays dry after a minute, you have a good seal. If it gets damp, turn the water off immediately and gently tighten that specific connection just a quarter turn more. Repeat the test.
Flushing the Aerator
New faucets often have debris (solder, metal shavings) stuck in the lines from manufacturing or installation.
- Remove Aerator: Unscrew the small screen (aerator) located at the very tip of the faucet spout. You may need pliers wrapped in a cloth to avoid scratching it.
- Run Water: Turn the faucet on full blast (both hot and cold) and let it run for about two minutes. This flushes out any debris into the sink basin.
- Reinstall Aerator: Turn the water off. Clean the screen if necessary, and then screw the aerator back onto the spout tightly.
Finalizing the Seal
If you used silicone caulk for sealing around faucet base:
- Use a wet finger or a damp cloth to smooth the bead of caulk, creating a clean line between the faucet base plate and the sink deck.
- Allow the caulk to cure according to the manufacturer’s directions (usually several hours) before exposing it to heavy water use or harsh chemicals.
Deciphering Common Faucet Issues
Even the best DIY efforts can run into minor snags. Here is quick help for post-installation troubleshooting.
Table of Common Problems and Fixes
| Issue | Likely Cause(s) | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Faucet Wiggles or Feels Loose | Insufficient tightening faucet nuts underneath. | Turn off water, tighten mounting nuts firmly using basin wrench. |
| Water Leaking at Supply Valve | Connection not seated correctly or seal failed. | Dry connection thoroughly. Tighten connection slightly more (1/8 turn). |
| Low Water Pressure | Clogged aerator or debris in lines. | Remove, clean, and reinstall the aerator. Run water for several minutes. |
| Water Flowing from Base (Top Side) | Poor sealing around faucet base (old putty/gasket failure). | Turn water off, remove faucet slightly, apply new plumber’s putty/silicone, and remount. |
| Pull-Down Sprayer Doesn’t Retract | Weight is missing or incorrectly placed. | Check that the weight is securely attached to the lowest part of the hose loop. |
Choosing the Right New Faucet
Selecting the right fixture is key to a successful upgrade. The process to replace kitchen faucet changes slightly based on the type you choose.
Faucet Types and Hole Requirements
Modern sinks are drilled for specific configurations. You must match your new faucet to your sink’s pre-drilled holes.
- Single-Hole Faucets: Need only one hole. These often come with an optional deck plate (escutcheon) if you are covering two or three existing holes.
- Centerset Faucets (4-Inch Spacing): Require three holes close together.
- Widespread Faucets (8-Inch Spacing): Require three separate holes spaced farther apart for the spout and two separate handles.
If your new faucet requires fewer holes than your sink has (e.g., replacing a three-hole faucet with a single-hole unit), you must use a deck plate to cover the unused holes. Ensure the deck plate comes with your new unit or purchase one separately.
Single-Handle vs. Double-Handle
Modern trends heavily favor single-handle faucets due to ease of use.
- Single-Handle: One lever controls both temperature and volume. This simplifies the install new sink faucet process as you only deal with one main body unit.
- Double-Handle: Separate controls for hot and cold. This requires more careful alignment of the separate components during installation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long does it take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer who has all their tools ready, replacing a kitchen faucet can take as little as one to two hours. For a first-timer, expect the job to take three to four hours, especially if you encounter difficulty trying to remove old faucet nuts that are stuck.
Q: Do I need a plumber to install a new kitchen faucet?
A: Most homeowners can handle this project. If you are dealing with very old, corroded pipes, rusted shutoff valves, or if you are uncomfortable working in the cramped space under the sink, calling a professional plumber is the safer choice.
Q: Can I install a single-hole faucet on a three-hole sink?
A: Yes, you can. You will need to use the deck plate (or escutcheon) that often comes with the new single-hole faucet. This plate covers the two extra holes around the main fixture opening.
Q: What is the difference between plumber’s putty and silicone caulk for sealing around faucet base?
A: Plumber’s putty is soft and easy to mold; it creates a seal but doesn’t cure hard. It’s great for items that might need future removal. Silicone caulk cures hard, offers a more permanent, waterproof seal, and is often recommended for stone countertops. Always check your faucet manufacturer’s recommendation.
Q: Why do I need a basin wrench to replace kitchen faucet?
A: A basin wrench has a long shaft and a swiveling jaw, allowing you to reach and turn the large mounting nuts located far back and high up underneath the sink bowl—spaces that standard wrenches cannot reach easily. It is essential for successfully tightening faucet nuts in tight spots.