Quick Guide: How To Fix A Dripping Kitchen Sink Faucet

Can I fix a dripping kitchen sink faucet myself? Yes, you absolutely can fix a dripping kitchen sink faucet yourself with basic tools and a little patience. This guide will walk you through the steps for leaky kitchen faucet repair, helping you stop that annoying drip for good.

Fixing a running sink tap is one of the most common household plumbing jobs. A steady drip wastes water and can hike up your water bill. Knowing how to perform dripping faucet troubleshooting will save you time and money. We will cover the most common types of faucets and the parts you need to replace.

Why Do Kitchen Faucets Drip?

A faucet drips because a seal inside has worn out or broken. Water is supposed to be stopped completely when you turn the handle off. If a part is damaged, water sneaks past the tight seal. This leads to the slow drip kitchen faucet fix becoming necessary.

Different faucet designs use different parts to stop water flow. The part that wears out most often is the washer, gasket, or the cartridge.

Tools and Materials You Need for DIY Faucet Repair

Before starting any DIY faucet repair, gather your tools. Having everything ready makes the job much smoother. You do not need specialized plumbing tools for most simple fixes.

Essential Tools:

Adjustable wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head)
Pliers (Needle-nose are very helpful)
Basin wrench (sometimes needed for tight spots under the sink)
Utility knife or putty knife (to pry off decorative caps)
Rag or towel (to catch water)
Safety glasses

Materials to Have On Hand (Depending on Faucet Type):

Replacement faucet washers
New O-rings
Replacement cartridge or stem assembly
Plumber’s grease (silicone-based)
Vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning mineral deposits)

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most critical first step. You must cut off the water before you take anything apart. If you skip this, you will have a flood!

Locating the Shut-Off Valves

Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor. One controls the hot water, and the other controls the cold water.

Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This closes them.
Turn the faucet handles on (both hot and cold). Let any remaining water drain out. This relieves the pressure in the lines.
If you cannot find the shut-off valves under the sink, you must turn off the main water supply to your entire house. Find your main shut-off valve, usually near the water meter or where the water line enters your home.

Checking if the Water is Off

After draining the lines, watch the faucet opening. If water stops completely, you are ready to proceed. If it still drips or trickles, the under-sink valves are not working, and you must shut off the main house supply.

Deciphering Your Faucet Type

The method for stopping a dripping faucet depends entirely on what kind of faucet you have. There are four main types:

Faucet Type	How It Works	Common Dripping Cause	Handle Appearance
Compression	Uses rubber washers pressed against a valve seat.	Worn-out rubber washer.	Separate hot and cold handles that must be tightened down.
Cartridge	Uses a movable cartridge to control flow.	Worn O-rings or a cracked cartridge.	Usually one or two handles that move up/down or side/side smoothly.
Ball	Found mostly in older single-handle sinks; uses a rotating metal or plastic ball.	Worn seals or springs.	Single handle sitting on a rounded base.
Disc (Ceramic)	Uses two ceramic discs that slide over each other.	Damaged ceramic discs or inlet seals.	Single handle, wide cylindrical body.

Most modern kitchen faucets are cartridge or ceramic disc style. Older homes often have compression faucets.

Fixing a Compression Faucet Leak (Washer Replacement)

Compression faucets are the oldest and most common type requiring faucet washer replacement. They drip because the washer gets hard, cracked, or worn down from constant pressure.

Removing the Handle

Find the Screw Cap: Look for a decorative cap (often marked ‘H’ or ‘C’) on top of the handle. Pop this off gently using a utility knife or small flat-head screwdriver.
Unscrew the Handle: You will see a screw underneath. Use the correct screwdriver to remove the screw. Lift the handle off.
Access the Stem: Under the handle, you will see a packing nut. Use an adjustable wrench to carefully loosen and unscrew this nut. This allows you to pull out the stem assembly (sometimes called the spindle).

Replacing the Washer

Locate the Washer: At the very bottom tip of the stem you just removed, you will find the rubber washer held in place by a brass screw.
Remove the Old Washer: Unscrew the brass screw. Pry out the old, damaged washer. Note its size and shape—you must match this replacement exactly.
Install the New Washer: Place the new washer onto the stem tip and secure it with the brass screw. Do not overtighten the screw; just make sure the washer is snug.
Inspect O-Rings (If Applicable): While the stem is out, check the O-rings near the top of the stem body. If they look worn, remove them (sometimes they slide right off) and replace them. Lightly coat new O-rings with plumber’s grease before sliding them on.

Reassembly and Testing

Reinsert the stem assembly back into the faucet body.
Tighten the packing nut securely with your wrench.
Reattach the handle and replace the decorative cap.
Slowly turn the water supply valves back on under the sink.
Test the faucet. If the drip is gone, congratulations! If it still leaks around the handle base, you may need to tighten the packing nut slightly more. This process is central to compression faucet repair.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet Leak

If you have a single-handle faucet that moves up and down for flow and side to side for temperature control, you likely have a cartridge faucet. Cartridge-style faucet leak usually requires replacing kitchen faucet cartridge.

Accessing the Cartridge

Remove the Handle: Handles are often held by a small set screw. This screw is usually hidden under a decorative cap or located on the side or back of the handle base. Use an Allen wrench or small screwdriver to loosen this set screw. Pull the handle off.
Remove the Retaining Clip/Nut: Look down into the faucet body. You will see the top of the cartridge held in place either by a retaining nut or a small metal clip (U-shaped pin).
- If it’s a nut, use pliers or a wrench to unscrew it.
- If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers or a small screwdriver to gently pull the clip straight up and out. Keep this clip safe!

Replacing the Cartridge

Pull Out the Old Cartridge: Grasp the top of the exposed cartridge with pliers. You may need to turn it slightly (about a quarter turn) back and forth to break its seal before pulling it straight up. Take note of its orientation—it must go back in the same way.
Inspect the Housing: Before inserting the new one, wipe out the inside of the faucet housing to remove any debris. Look for any damaged seals inside the housing.
Install the New Cartridge: Line up the new cartridge exactly as the old one was positioned. Press it firmly down into the housing.
Secure the Cartridge: Reinstall the retaining clip or tighten the retaining nut. This secures the new unit.

Final Assembly

Reattach the faucet handle and tighten the set screw.
Turn the water back on slowly under the sink. Check for leaks, especially around the base of the handle.

Fixing a Ball Faucet Leak

Ball faucets are recognizable by their single handle that pivots over a round base. These use springs, seats, and a rotating ball. Fixing these can be tricky, so many plumbers recommend buying a complete repair kit specific to the brand (like Delta).

Disassembly

Use an Allen wrench to loosen the handle screw and remove the handle.
Unscrew the cap or dome covering the ball assembly.
Lift out the cam assembly, packing, and the rotating ball.

Repairing the Seats and Springs

The drip is almost always caused by the rubber seats and springs located beneath the ball.

Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the small rubber seats and springs from the faucet body chambers.
Replace them with the new ones provided in your repair kit. Make sure the pointed end of the spring faces down toward the water inlet.
Wipe down the rotating ball, or replace it if it appears damaged.

Reassembly

Place the ball back in. Ensure the small slot or groove on the ball lines up correctly with the pin inside the faucet body.
Replace the cam assembly and packing on top of the ball.
Screw the cap back on, then reattach the handle.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet Leak

These are the most durable faucets, often only leaking due to damage to the inlet seals or the ceramic discs themselves.

Accessing the Cylinder

Remove the handle, usually by loosening a set screw hidden under a cap.
Unscrew the escutcheon cap (the wide metal ring) covering the cylinder.
Remove the screws holding the ceramic disc cylinder in place.

Replacing Seals or the Cylinder

Carefully lift out the cylinder assembly.
Check the inlet seals (small rubber gaskets) at the bottom of the cylinder housing. If they are dirty or flattened, replace them. Apply plumber’s grease to the new seals.
If the discs inside the cylinder appear cracked or scratched, you must replace the entire cylinder unit. These are often sold as non-repairable units.
Reinstall the cylinder, making sure it sits perfectly flat.
Replace the screws, cap, and handle.

Inspecting and Cleaning Aerator Deposits

Sometimes the faucet isn’t dripping internally; the flow looks erratic, or it seems like water is escaping unevenly. This is often due to mineral buildup, or lime scale, at the aerator. An aerator is the screen tip at the end of the spout.

This is a common issue when fixing a running sink tap where the issue seems minor but annoying.

Unscrew the aerator from the tip of the spout. You can usually do this by hand or using pliers protected by a rag to avoid scratching the finish.
Take the aerator apart into its small screen pieces.
Soak all the small pieces in a small cup of white vinegar for at least 30 minutes. The acid in the vinegar dissolves mineral deposits.
Scrub any stubborn residue with an old toothbrush.
Rinse everything thoroughly and reassemble the aerator. Screw it back onto the spout.

Dealing with Leaks Under the Sink (Supply Lines)

If you have performed dripping faucet troubleshooting and you realize the drip is not coming from the spout but from under the sink where the water connects, the problem is the supply line connection, not the faucet mechanism itself.

Inspecting Supply Line Connections

Ensure the water is off.
Feel the connections where the flexible supply lines meet the faucet shank (the pipe coming down from the faucet body) and where they meet the shut-off valves.
If you see moisture or dripping, try gently tightening the connection nut using an adjustable wrench. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the threads or the rubber gasket inside the coupling.
If tightening does not work, you must replace the supply line hose. Supply lines are inexpensive and easy to swap out, but ensure you buy the correct length and thread size for your specific setup.

Preventing Future Leaks: Maintenance Tips

Once you have completed your leaky kitchen faucet repair, follow these tips to keep the faucet working smoothly for years to come.

Turn Handles Gently: Whether it’s a compression faucet or a cartridge model, excessive force wears parts out faster. Turn handles firmly, but never yank them shut.
Flush Regularly: If you have hard water, flush the aerator every three to six months to prevent mineral buildup.
Use Plumber’s Grease: Every time you open a compression faucet for maintenance or replace a cartridge, apply a thin coat of silicone plumber’s grease to the O-rings and any threads. This keeps moving parts lubricated and helps seals last longer.
Address Minor Drips Immediately: Don’t ignore a faucet that drips occasionally. Catching a small issue early prevents wear from spreading to other components, making your slow drip kitchen faucet fix easier later on.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While most drip repairs are manageable for a dedicated DIYer, there are times when calling in a professional is the wisest choice:

Inability to Locate Shut-Off Valves: If you cannot find the water shut-off valves and are hesitant to turn off the main house supply.
Corrosion or Stuck Parts: If components like retaining nuts or stems are severely corroded and will not budge, forcing them can break the faucet body itself, leading to a much more expensive replacement.
Faucet Body Damage: If you find cracks in the metal housing or the leak persists even after replacing all internal parts, the main fixture body is compromised.
Specialized Faucets: If you have a very high-end, proprietary faucet system that requires unique tools or specific brand parts that are hard to source.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Repair

Q: How long should a replacement faucet washer last?

A: A good quality rubber or silicone washer in a compression faucet should last anywhere from three to ten years, depending on water quality and how often the faucet is used.

Q: My faucet drips from the handle, not the spout. What part is causing this?

A: If the drip comes from around the handle base when the water is on, this usually means the O-rings around the stem or cartridge are worn out, or the packing nut (in compression faucets) is loose. This requires addressing the seals higher up on the assembly.

Q: Can I replace an old compression faucet with a new cartridge style?

A: Yes, you can replace an entire faucet assembly. This is often a good upgrade for better longevity and smoother operation, though it requires disconnecting the supply lines from the existing faucet shank and installing the new one, which is a more involved process than simple DIY faucet repair.

Q: Do I need to replace the whole cartridge if only one seal is bad?

A: For cartridge or ceramic disc faucets, it is highly recommended to replace the entire cartridge unit, even if you only see one worn O-ring. Cartridges are usually sealed units, and replacing just one small part can void the effect, as the internal plastic or ceramic components are likely stressed as well.

Q: What is the difference between plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) and plumber’s grease?

A: Plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) is used to seal threaded pipe connections, like where the supply line screws onto a valve, to prevent leaks there. Plumber’s grease is a silicone lubricant used on rubber O-rings, washers, and moving parts inside the faucet mechanism to ensure smooth operation and protect the rubber from drying out during your leaky kitchen faucet repair. They serve very different functions.