Quick Guide: How To Fix Leaking Kitchen Faucet

Yes, you can often fix a leaking kitchen faucet yourself without calling a plumber. Most leaks stem from worn-out internal parts like washers, O-rings, or cartridges, which are usually easy and cheap to replace.

Why Does My Kitchen Faucet Keep Dripping?

A constant drip from your kitchen faucet is more than just annoying; it wastes water and drives up your utility bill. To stop kitchen sink leak issues, you first need to know the main culprits. Leaks happen because the moving parts inside the faucet wear down over time from constant use and exposure to water minerals. These parts no longer seal tightly, letting water escape, causing that irritating drip, drip, drip.

Common Types of Kitchen Faucets and Their Leaks

Kitchen faucets come in several styles. Each style uses different internal parts. Knowing your faucet type helps immensely when you need to do a dripping faucet repair.

Faucet Type	Common Leak Source	Typical Repair Part
Compression Faucets	Worn rubber washers at the base of the stem.	Washers or Seat Washers
Ball Faucets	Worn springs, seals, or the rotating ball.	Spring and Seal Kit
Cartridge Faucets	Worn or cracked plastic/metal cartridge.	Cartridge replacement kitchen faucet
Ceramic Disc Faucets	Damaged ceramic discs or inlet/outlet seals.	Inlet/Outlet Seals

If you have a single handle faucet, it is usually a cartridge or ball type. If water drips from the spout, the internal seals are the main concern. If water seeps around the base or handle, look at the seals or O-rings first.

Getting Ready: Tools and Safety First

Before you begin any faucet valve repair, preparation is key. Having the right tools makes the job simple and quick. Safety comes first, always.

Essential Tools Checklist

Gather these items before you start taking things apart:

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head)
Pliers (needle-nose are very helpful)
Utility knife or putty knife (to pry off caps)
Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
Penetrating oil (for stuck screws)
Towel or rag
White vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning mineral deposits)

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most critical safety step. If you skip this, you will have a flood!

Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two small shut-off valves—one for hot water and one for cold water.
Turn both handles clockwise until they stop. This shuts off the water flow to the faucet.
Turn the faucet handles on (both hot and cold) above the sink. This releases any built-up pressure and drains the remaining water from the lines. Leave the handles in the open position while you work.

Step 2: Protect Your Sink

Place a towel or rag inside the sink basin. This prevents small screws or parts from falling down the drain. If you plan on removing the entire faucet later, cover the sink with a larger cloth to protect the finish from dropped tools.

Diagnosing and Fixing Common Leak Spots

Where the water leaks tells you where to focus your dripping faucet repair efforts. Leaks generally happen in two places: at the spout (the tap end) or around the base/handle.

Repairing a Leaky Faucet Handle or Spout Base

Water seeping out around the handle or base usually means the sealing components directly under the handle assembly are failing. This often requires a leaky faucet handle replacement or seal check.

For Two-Handle Faucets (Compression Style)

These older styles rely on rubber washers being pressed down to stop water flow.

Disassembling the Handle

Remove the Index Cap: Look for a decorative cap (often marked H or C) on top of the handle. Gently pry this off using a small flat-head screwdriver or utility knife.
Remove the Handle Screw: Use the correct screwdriver to remove the screw holding the handle onto the stem. Take the handle off and set it aside.
Expose the Valve Stem: You will see a large retaining nut or packing nut surrounding the valve stem. Use your adjustable wrench to carefully turn this nut counter-clockwise to remove it. Be gentle; excessive force can damage the surrounding fixture.
Remove the Stem: Lift the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body.

Inspecting and Replacing Internal Parts

Check the Washer: At the bottom tip of the stem, you will find the seat washer. Use a screwdriver to remove the small screw holding it in place. If the washer is cracked, flattened, or worn, replace it with an exact match.
Inspect the O-Rings: Higher up on the stem, you will find one or two rubber O-rings. These prevent water from leaking out around the stem when the water is running. If these look cracked or brittle, you need to replace kitchen faucet O-ring components. Lubricate new O-rings with plumber’s grease before sliding them on.
Inspect the Seat: Look down into the faucet body where the stem sat. You will see the faucet seat. This smooth brass surface needs to be perfectly flat for the washer to seal. If it looks rough, you might need a seat grinder tool, or you may need professional help for extensive faucet valve repair.

Reassembly

Reverse the disassembly steps. Make sure the new washer is firmly seated and the retaining nut is snug—not overly tight. Test the faucet by slowly turning the water back on under the sink.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet Leak (Single Handle Leaks)

Modern single-handle faucets often use a cartridge. If you have a leak when the handle is off, it is time for a cartridge replacement kitchen faucet. This is a common fix for a fix single handle faucet leak.

Removing the Cartridge

Locate the Set Screw: On most single-handle faucets, the handle is held by a small set screw. This is often hidden under a decorative cap or located at the back or side of the handle base. You might need an Allen wrench (hex key) for this screw. Loosen it and remove the handle.
Remove the Retaining Clip/Nut: Once the handle is off, look for a metal clip or bonnet nut holding the cartridge in place. If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to pull it straight up. If it’s a nut, unscrew it gently.
Pull Out the Cartridge: The cartridge is a self-contained unit. You may need pliers to grip it firmly and pull it straight up and out. Pay close attention to its orientation. Mark the side facing forward or take a picture before removal so you insert the new one correctly.

Installing the New Cartridge

Clean the Housing: Before inserting the new unit, wipe out any debris inside the faucet body.
Insert the New Cartridge: Make sure any alignment tabs or grooves on the new cartridge line up perfectly with the faucet body slots. Push it down firmly until it seats completely.
Reassemble: Put the retaining clip or nut back on. Reattach the handle.

If you are trying to fix running kitchen tap issues associated with a single-handle model, the cartridge is almost always the culprit.

Addressing Leaks from the Spout Tip (Aerator Area)

If water drips specifically from where the water comes out, the problem is often related to the spout assembly itself, which may need a repair faucet spout leak procedure.

For Swivel Spouts

If your faucet has a high-arc or pull-down spout that swivels, the leak is usually caused by worn O-rings where the spout connects to the main faucet body.

Remove the Spout: Depending on the model, you might need to remove the handle assembly first (as detailed above) to access a retaining nut or screw holding the spout base. On some models, the spout simply pulls straight up after the handle is removed.
Locate Spout O-Rings: At the base of the spout housing, you will find one or two rubber O-rings seated in grooves.
Replace and Lubricate: Carefully remove the old O-rings. Clean the grooves thoroughly. Coat the new O-rings with plumber’s grease and slide them into place.
Reinstall: Place the spout back onto the body, ensuring it slides smoothly. Reassemble the rest of the faucet parts.

Dealing with Faucet Base Leaks (Pervasive Leaks)

If water pools around the base of the faucet when the water is running, this indicates a failure in the seals between the faucet body and the fixture mounting, or sometimes loose mounting hardware underneath.

If the leak appears only when the handle is moved, check the seals around the stem/cartridge again. If it leaks constantly, even when the faucet is off, the internal seals are bad.

If the leak is coming from under the counter where the faucet connects to the sink deck, you need to how to tighten loose faucet connections.

Tightening the Faucet Base

Go under the sink. Locate the large mounting nut or mounting bracket that holds the faucet firmly to the sink or countertop.
Use a basin wrench (a specialized long-handled tool) to reach up and grasp this nut.
Turn the nut clockwise until it is very snug. Do not overtighten, as this can crack a granite or porcelain sink deck. The goal is to prevent any wobble, which loosens seals over time.

Advanced Repair: Fixing a Ball Faucet Leak

Ball faucets are complex, featuring a rotating metal or plastic ball that controls water flow and temperature. They often require specialized kits for repair. If you have an older model that drips, you might need a complete seal and spring kit specific to that brand.

Ball Faucet Disassembly

Remove the handle screw and handle (similar to cartridge faucets).
Unscrew the cap or collar that covers the ball assembly.
Lift out the cam assembly and the control ball itself.

Replacing Seals and Springs

Beneath the ball, you will find small rubber seals resting on springs. These are the most common failure point for a fix running kitchen tap in a ball faucet.

Use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull out the old springs and seals.
Place the new springs into the holes first, followed by the new rubber seals resting on top of them.
Reinstall the control ball, ensuring the small notch or groove on the ball lines up correctly with the tab inside the faucet body opening.
Replace the cam assembly, making sure the assembly notch lines up with the pin in the faucet body.
Screw the cap back on and reattach the handle.

Mineral Buildup: A Hidden Cause of Leaks

Hard water leaves behind white, crusty mineral deposits (limescale). These deposits can build up on valve seats, washers, or inside cartridges, preventing a tight seal even if the parts are new. This directly contributes to the need for a faucet valve repair.

Cleaning Components

When you take apart the faucet, clean every metal piece you remove:

Soak parts like stems, nuts, and disassembled pieces in a bowl of white vinegar for a few hours.
Use an old toothbrush to scrub away any white crusty buildup. Vinegar dissolves calcium and lime effectively.
Rinse all parts thoroughly with clean water before reassembling.

Troubleshooting Specific Leak Scenarios

Sometimes the problem isn’t obvious. Here’s how to approach trickier leaks.

My Faucet Drips Only When Hot or Only When Cold is Used

This points directly to a problem in one side of the valve mechanism.

Cold Drip: The cold water washer, O-ring, or cartridge seal for the cold side is failing.
Hot Drip: The hot water washer, O-ring, or cartridge seal for the hot side is failing.

Focus your disassembly and replacement efforts entirely on the components associated with the leaking temperature line. For two-handle faucets, this means replacing the washer on the specific stem (hot or cold) you removed. For single-handle units, the entire cartridge likely needs replacing, as the internal seals for hot and cold share the same housing.

Fixing Leaks on Pull-Down Sprayers

If your faucet has a pull-down sprayer head, leaks often occur where the hose connects to the main body under the sink, or within the hose itself.

Check the Spray Head Connection: If water leaks from the head when the sprayer is activated, the internal diverter valve inside the sprayer head is likely faulty. Some heads can be disassembled to clean or replace the diverter seals.
Check Under the Sink Hose: The heavy counterweight attached to the flexible hose pulls the sprayer back into place. If the connection point of this hose to the faucet body is loose, tighten it carefully. If the hose itself has a pinhole leak, you must replace the entire flexible hose assembly, which often means removing the faucet entirely from the countertop.

When to Replace the Entire Faucet

While most leaks are fixable with new seals or a cartridge replacement kitchen faucet, there are times when replacement is smarter than repair.

Consider replacement if:

The faucet body itself is heavily corroded or visibly cracked.
The metal parts are so seized with mineral deposits that you cannot disassemble them without risk of breaking something critical (like the connections under the sink).
You cannot find replacement parts specific to your older, obscure faucet brand.
The finish is badly worn, and you want a fresh look.

Replacing the whole unit is often just as time-consuming as a major repair, but it gives you a completely new, leak-free system.

Final Check Before Turning Water On

Before celebrating your successful dripping faucet repair, follow these crucial final steps:

Ensure all handles are returned to the “off” position.
Slowly turn the hot water shut-off valve back on under the sink. Listen for immediate rushing water—if you hear any, shut it off immediately and recheck your seals.
Slowly turn the cold water shut-off valve back on.
Slowly turn the faucet handles on (both hot and cold) to flush out any air or debris left in the lines. Let them run for about 30 seconds.
Turn the faucet off completely.
Observe the spout for several minutes. If there is no dripping, congratulations! You have successfully managed to stop kitchen sink leak troubles yourself.
Check under the sink one last time for any hidden leaks around the supply lines.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Repair

How long should a kitchen faucet cartridge last?

A quality faucet cartridge should last between 10 and 15 years under normal use. High mineral content in the water or aggressive scrubbing can shorten this lifespan.

Do I need to drain the whole house water supply to fix my faucet?

No. You only need to shut off the hot and cold water supply lines directly beneath the sink. For the repair, ensure the faucet handles are open to release trapped air pressure.

I tried replacing the O-rings, but the faucet still leaks around the base. What now?

If replacing the O-rings did not solve the base leak, you likely need to how to tighten loose faucet mounting hardware underneath the sink. If tightening doesn’t work, the main body gasket (the seal between the faucet base and the countertop) might be damaged and needs replacement, or the faucet body itself may be cracked.

Can I use plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) when fixing a leaky faucet handle?

Teflon tape is typically used on threaded pipe connections, not usually on internal washer or cartridge seats. For internal faucet parts like O-rings and cartridges, use plumber’s grease to help seal and lubricate, not Teflon tape.

My single-handle faucet drips, but I don’t know the brand. How can I get the right replacement cartridge?

Take the old cartridge with you to a plumbing supply store. Most plumbing supply centers can visually match the old cartridge to the correct universal replacement or brand-specific part. Often, the brand name is stamped on the side of the faucet body or handle base.