Easy Steps How To Fix Leaky Kitchen Faucet

Can I fix a leaky kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you absolutely can fix a leaky kitchen faucet yourself. Most leaks stem from simple worn-out parts like washers or cartridges that are easy to access and replace, making DIY faucet repair a common and achievable household task.

Fixing a leak may seem like a job just for a plumber, but many common faucet problems are simple fixes you can handle today. A steady drip wastes water and money. Learning how to fix a leaky kitchen faucet will save you calls to the professional and give you a sense of accomplishment. We will walk through the steps to stop kitchen faucet leak issues for the most common types of faucets.

How To Fix Leaky Kitchen Faucet
Image Source: i.ytimg.com

Gathering Your Tools for the Job

Before starting any plumbing fixes for sinks, you need the right tools. Having everything ready makes the job smooth. Do not start taking things apart until you have these items ready to go.

Essential Tools Checklist

Screwdrivers: Both Phillips and flathead types. You need these for removing handle screws.
Adjustable Wrench or Pliers: Used for gripping nuts and packing nuts.
Basin Wrench (Sometimes needed): Helpful if you need to reach up under the sink.
Utility Knife or Small Flathead Screwdriver: Useful for prying off decorative caps.
Towel or Rag: To soak up spilled water.
White Vinegar: For cleaning mineral buildup.
Replacement Parts: This depends on your faucet type. You might need a new faucet washer replacement, O-rings, or a new replace faucet cartridge.
Penetrating Oil (Optional): Good for very stuck parts.

Step One: Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most crucial first step. Never try to fix a faucet while water is running to it. Turning off the water stops the leak immediately and prevents a major flood when you open the faucet body.

Locating the Shut-Off Valves

Look under your kitchen sink. You should see two small valves connected to the water lines—one for hot water and one for cold water.

Turn the handles on both valves clockwise until they stop. This closes the water flow.
Go back to the faucet. Turn the handles on the sink handle to the “on” position. Water should stop flowing completely or only trickle out a little. This relieves any pressure left in the lines.
If you cannot find these local valves, you must turn off the main water supply to your entire house. This is usually done near the water meter or where the main line enters your home.

Deciphering Your Faucet Type

Not all faucets are the same. The method for dripping faucet repair changes based on what kind of mechanism your sink uses. Knowing your faucet type helps you buy the correct replacement parts.

Faucet Type	How it Works	Common Leak Source
Compression Faucet	Uses rubber washers pressed against a valve seat to stop water.	Worn-out rubber washers.
Cartridge Faucet	Uses a movable stem or cartridge that controls water flow.	Damaged or worn O-rings inside the cartridge.
Ball Faucet	Common in older kitchens; uses a metal or plastic ball with slots.	Worn seals and springs.
Ceramic Disc Faucet	Modern, durable type using two ceramic discs to seal water.	Cracks in the ceramic discs (rare) or worn inlet seals.

Most modern kitchen sinks use cartridge or ceramic disc faucets. Older sinks often have compression types.

Fixing a Compression Faucet Leak (Washer Replacement)

Compression faucets are the easiest to diagnose when looking for how to stop kitchen faucet leak because the problem is almost always a hard, flattened washer. This type of faucet usually has separate handles for hot and cold water.

Accessing the Handle and Stem

Remove the Handle: Look for a decorative cap (often marked H or C) on top of the handle. Use a small flathead screwdriver or utility knife to gently pry this cap off.
Under the cap, you will find a screw. Use your screwdriver to remove this screw. Now, pull the handle straight up and off the faucet body.
Expose the Stem: You will see the faucet stem assembly (also called the valve stem). Use your adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut that holds the stem in place. Turn it counter-clockwise.
Carefully pull the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body.

Replacing the Washer and O-Ring

The stem holds the parts that stop the water.

Locate the Washer: At the bottom of the stem, you will see a small screw holding a rubber washer in place. This is the culprit for the drip. Remove the screw.
Take off the old washer. Take it with you to the hardware store to find an exact match for faucet washer replacement.
Replace it with a new, soft rubber washer. Secure it with the screw. Make sure the screw is snug but do not overtighten, as this can damage the new washer.
Check the O-rings higher up on the stem shaft. These prevent leaks around the handle base. If they look cracked or brittle, slip the old ones off and roll new ones into place. This is key for fixing a leaky sink tap.

Reassembly and Testing

Insert the stem assembly back into the faucet body.
Hand-tighten the packing nut, then give it a quarter-turn with the wrench. Be careful not to crush the new washer you just installed.
Reattach the handle, screw it down, and pop the decorative cap back on.
Slowly turn the water supply valves back on underneath the sink. Test the faucet. If it still drips, you may need to tighten the packing nut slightly more, or the valve seat itself might be damaged (a more advanced issue).

Repairing a Cartridge Faucet Leak

Cartridge faucets are very common today. They use a single handle to control both temperature and flow. When they leak, it is usually because the internal replace faucet cartridge unit is failing. This is a straightforward fix for DIY faucet repair.

Disassembly

Shut Off Water: Ensure the water supply is off beneath the sink.
Remove the Handle: Look for a small screw, often hidden under a decorative cap or behind a plastic plug on the side or back of the handle. Remove the screw and pull the handle off.
Remove the Retaining Nut/Clip: Once the handle is off, you will likely see a retaining nut or a small retaining clip holding the cartridge in place.
- For a Retaining Clip: Use needle-nose pliers to carefully pull the clip straight out. It often looks like a U-shape.
- For a Retaining Nut: Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the nut.

Replacing the Cartridge

Pull Out the Old Cartridge: The cartridge might pull straight out, or you might need to use pliers to gently twist it a quarter turn left or right to loosen it before pulling. Note the orientation of the old cartridge—it must go back in the exact same way. Mark the front with a line if needed.
Take the old cartridge to the store to find an exact match.
Install the New Cartridge: Insert the new cartridge, lining up any tabs or markings so it sits perfectly in the faucet body recess. This ensures the hot and cold sides are correct.
Reinstall the retaining clip or nut securely.

Final Steps

Reattach the handle and secure it with the screw.
Slowly turn the water back on underneath the sink. Test the faucet function. This usually solves the issue of how to fix a leaky kitchen faucet when using a cartridge model.

Addressing Ball Faucets (If You Have One)

Ball faucets are recognizable by their single handle that swivels over a rounded cap. These have many small parts, making them trickier than cartridge types, but still doable for plumbing fixes for sinks.

Disassembly for Ball Faucets

Water Off: Confirm the supply valves are closed.
Remove Handle: Unscrew the handle set screw, usually found under a decorative cap or on the side, and lift the handle off.
Unscrew Cap: Use groove-joint pliers to carefully unscrew the faucet cap (the dome shape). Wrap the pliers jaws with tape to prevent scratching the finish.
Remove Cam and Ball: Lift out the cam assembly (which holds the handle down) and then lift out the rotating ball.

Replacing Seals and Springs

The leak in a ball faucet usually comes from the small rubber seats and springs located beneath where the ball sat.

Look inside the housing where the ball was. You will see small rubber seats and springs. Use a screwdriver or tweezers to remove them.
Take these small parts to buy a replacement kit designed specifically for ball faucets.
Drop the new springs into their holes (spring side down). Place the new rubber seats directly over the springs.
Reinstall the rotating ball, ensuring the groove on the ball lines up with the pin notch in the faucet body.

Reassembly

Place the cam assembly back on top of the ball.
Screw the cap back on. Tighten it firmly but do not overtighten—it needs to move smoothly for the handle to turn.
Reinstall the handle. Test the water flow. If you are still asking the best way to fix running faucet after this, the issue might be deeper within the valve body itself.

Fixing Leaks from the Spout Base (O-Rings)

Sometimes the leak doesn’t come from the spout tip but drips or pools around the base of the spout where it swivels. This means the O-rings sealing the spout body are worn out. This is a separate fix from the internal valve mechanism.

Accessing the Spout O-Rings

Ensure Water is Off: Double-check that the supply valves are closed.
Remove Handle and Cartridge/Stem: Follow the steps above for your specific faucet type to fully remove the handle and the internal moving parts (cartridge or stem). This exposes the spout base.
Remove the Spout: Depending on the model, the spout may simply lift off once the internal parts are removed. Some may have a small retaining screw or nut securing them near the base. Remove this hardware.
Carefully lift the entire spout body away from the faucet base plate.

Replacing the Spout O-Rings

Examine the base of the spout body where it connects to the faucet housing. You will see one or two rubber O-rings fitted into grooves.
Use a utility knife or small screwdriver to carefully roll or cut off the old O-rings. Be careful not to scratch the metal surface underneath.
Clean the grooves thoroughly. Mineral deposits often cause leaks when they create gaps around the seal. Use white vinegar and a cloth to clean them well.
Lubricate the new O-rings with plumber’s silicone grease (this helps them slide on easily and seal better). Roll the new rings into their grooves.
Slide the spout back onto the faucet body, making sure the O-rings seat properly.

Reassemble the rest of the faucet components. This method is crucial for fixing a leaky sink tap where the water appears to be coming from the base rather than dripping from the aerator.

Addressing Leaks at the Handle Base

If water seeps out from around the handle when you turn the water on, the problem is usually related to the components that seal the handle area, not the main valve seal.

For compression faucets, this is the packing nut seal. For cartridge faucets, this is often the O-rings around the cartridge housing or the retaining nut not being tight enough.

If you have a compression faucet:
1. Turn off the water.
2. Remove the handle.
3. Try to how to tighten a loose faucet stem packing nut slightly (a quarter turn). If it stops leaking, you are done.
4. If tightening doesn’t work, you likely need to replace the packing string or O-ring around the stem shaft, as described in the compression faucet section.

For cartridge faucets, if water leaks around the handle, ensure the retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge is very secure. If it is, the O-rings inside the cartridge body are failing, requiring you to replace faucet cartridge entirely.

Cleaning Mineral Deposits: An Important Part of Repair

Hard water leaves behind mineral deposits (limescale). These deposits can prevent new washers from seating correctly or stop smooth-moving parts from sealing shut. Cleaning is vital for effective dripping faucet repair.

Cleaning the Valve Seat

In compression faucets, the valve seat is the metal surface the washer presses against. If this surface is pitted or rough, a new washer won’t seal perfectly, leading to a slow drip.

With the stem removed, inspect the inside of the faucet body where the stem screws in.
Use a specialized valve seat dresser/grinder tool (available at hardware stores) if the pitting is bad. This tool grinds the metal seat flat again. Use it gently!
If you don’t have a dresser, try cleaning the seat surface with a cloth dipped in white vinegar to remove soft scale.

Cleaning the Aerator

If the water stream is spraying unevenly or sputtering, the aerator (the screen tip at the very end of the spout) is clogged. This isn’t a leak, but it’s a very common related issue when you are already working on your sink.

Unscrew the aerator tip by hand or with pliers (wrap the tip in cloth first).
Soak all the small pieces in a bowl of white vinegar for several hours.
Rinse thoroughly and reassemble. This clears up flow issues, making it the best way to fix running faucet problems related to poor stream quality.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While most leaks are manageable through DIY faucet repair, some situations require a professional touch.

Call a plumber if:

You cannot locate or shut off the water supply valves.
The faucet body itself (the main metal housing) has a visible crack or corrosion leak.
The valve seat in a compression faucet is severely pitted and cannot be smoothed with a dresser tool.
You have replaced all relevant washers and cartridges, but the leak persists, suggesting a deeper internal issue within the piping or mixing chamber.
You are attempting to how to tighten a loose faucet that is fixed directly to the countertop, and the mounting nuts are inaccessible or broken.

Summary of Best Practices for Faucet Repair

To ensure your repair lasts and to minimize frustration when tackling common faucet problems, follow these best practices:

Always Shut Off Water First: This cannot be stressed enough.
Identify Your Faucet Type: Using the wrong repair kit guarantees failure.
Replace Matching Parts: If you replace one O-ring, replace all of them. If you replace one washer, replace all washers.
Use Plumber’s Grease: Apply silicone-based plumber’s grease to all new O-rings and threads before reassembly. This prevents friction and wear, which is essential for the long life of your dripping faucet repair.
Don’t Force Parts: If a screw or nut won’t turn, stop. Forcing it often leads to stripped screws or broken metal pieces, escalating a simple fix into a major repair. Use penetrating oil if needed.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: My faucet is dripping slowly. Do I need to replace the whole faucet?
A: No, a slow drip usually means you only need a faucet washer replacement (for compression faucets) or a new cartridge (for cartridge faucets). Avoid replacing the entire fixture unless the faucet body itself is damaged beyond repair.

Q: How do I stop the water completely if I can’t find the shut-off valves under the sink?
A: You must locate your main water shut-off valve for your house. This is usually near your water meter, in the basement, or where the water pipe enters the house from the street. Turn this off until the repair is complete.

Q: What is the purpose of the plumber’s grease I used during my DIY faucet repair?
A: Plumber’s grease (silicone grease) lubricates the moving parts, like O-rings and cartridges. This reduces friction, helps the parts slide into place correctly for a tight seal, and prevents the rubber parts from drying out and cracking prematurely.

Q: I tried tightening the handle screw, but the handle is still loose. What now?
A: If tightening the screw doesn’t work, the issue might be how you are trying to how to tighten a loose faucet. Check if there is a small set screw underneath the handle that needs tightening instead of the top screw. If both are tight and the handle wobbles, the handle itself might be cracked or stripped internally and may need replacement.

Q: How often should I expect to perform faucet maintenance?
A: In areas with hard water, you might need minor maintenance (like cleaning the aerator) every six months to a year. Major repairs, like replacing a cartridge or washers, should last several years, often 5 to 10 years, depending on faucet quality and usage.