How To Paint Kitchen Cupboards: Step-by-Step

Can I paint my kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you absolutely can paint your kitchen cabinets yourself! This step-by-step guide will show you how to refinish kitchen cabinets and transform your kitchen space without a huge budget. Painting cabinets is a popular way of updating kitchen cabinets with paint and giving your kitchen a fresh, modern look. This detailed cabinet painting tutorial covers everything from prep work to the final coat.

The Big Decision: To Paint or Not To Paint?

Painting your kitchen cabinets is a major change. It can save you thousands compared to buying new ones. When done right, the results look high-end. This process is a big job, but it is totally achievable with careful planning. This is the heart of DIY cabinet refinishing.

Phase 1: Planning and Gathering Supplies

Good results start before you even touch sandpaper. You need the right tools and the perfect paint. Choosing wisely prevents many common cabinet painting mistakes.

Choosing the Best Paint for Kitchen Cabinets

What is the best paint for kitchen cabinets? The answer depends on durability and finish. Cabinets see heavy use, so the paint must be tough.

Oil-Based (Alkyd) Paints: These dry very hard and offer a smooth, durable finish. They resist wear well. The downside is the strong smell and slower drying time.
Water-Based Acrylic or Alkyd/Acrylic Blends (Waterborne Alkyds): Modern hybrids are popular. They clean up easily with water but cure nearly as hard as oil paints. They yellow less over time than traditional oils.
Chalk Paint Kitchen Cabinets: Chalk paint kitchen cabinets are very popular for a matte or distressed look. While easy to apply, they always require a durable topcoat (sealer) for kitchen moisture and grease resistance.

Paint Type	Durability	Application Ease	Cure Time
Oil-Based	Excellent	Moderate (Smell)	Slow
Waterborne Alkyd	Very Good	Good	Moderate
Latex/Acrylic	Fair to Good	Easy	Fast
Chalk Paint	Needs Sealer	Very Easy	Fast

Essential Tools Checklist

Make sure you have everything ready before you start. Running to the store mid-job slows everything down.

Screwdriver set (for removing hardware)
Mild cleaner (TSP substitute or degreaser)
Fine-grit sandpaper (120, 180, and 220 grit)
Sanding block or orbital sander (optional, for flat surfaces)
Tack cloths or microfiber towels
High-quality, angled synthetic brush
Foam or microfiber rollers (small diameter, high-density)
Painter’s tape (high quality)
Plastic sheeting or drop cloths
Primer (stain-blocking bonding primer is best)
Your chosen cabinet paint
A well-ventilated space or ventilation fans

Phase 2: Prepping Cabinets for Paint – The Most Crucial Step

This is where most people fail. If you skip good prep, your paint will peel or look uneven. Remember this: prepping cabinets for paint takes longer than the actual painting.

Removing Doors and Hardware

Label Everything: Use small pieces of painter’s tape to mark the doors and drawer fronts (e.g., “Top Left,” “Drawer 3”). This saves headaches later.
Remove Hardware: Take off all knobs and pulls. Store screws safely with their corresponding hardware.
Remove Doors: Carefully detach the hinges and remove the doors. Take off the doors from the cabinet boxes too.

Cleaning and Degreasing

Kitchen cabinets accumulate grease, oils, and grime. Paint will not stick to grease.

Use a strong degreaser. Many pros use TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) or a TSP substitute mixed with warm water.
Wipe down every surface—fronts, backs, and edges—thoroughly.
Rinse the surfaces with clean water afterward.
Let the surfaces dry completely. Damp wood drinks paint unevenly.

Sanding for Adhesion

Sanding creates a “tooth” for the paint to grip. You are not trying to strip the old finish off unless it is flaking badly.

If the existing finish is glossy: You must dull it down completely. Start with 150 or 180 grit sandpaper. Sand lightly in the direction of the wood grain.
For rough or damaged areas: Use 120 grit to smooth these spots first.
Final Sanding: Follow up with 220 grit sandpaper for a smooth feel before priming. This step is vital for professional results.
Clean Dust: Use a shop vacuum to remove most dust. Wipe every surface down with a tack cloth to grab the tiny particles. Do not skip the tack cloth!

Fixing Flaws and Damage

Now is the time to repair.

Use wood filler for any deep scratches or gouges. Let it dry fully.
Sand the filled areas flush with the cabinet surface.
If you have gaps where trim meets, use paintable caulk to seal them.

Phase 3: Priming – Building a Solid Base

Primer is non-negotiable when you refinish kitchen cabinets. It seals stains, blocks tannins (in wood like oak), and ensures the topcoat adheres perfectly.

Selecting the Right Primer

The best paint for kitchen cabinets needs the best partner: the primer.

For bare wood or repairs: Use a good stain-blocking primer, like an oil-based or shellac-based product. These lock down wood tannins that can bleed through latex paint later.
For previously painted surfaces in good shape: A high-adhesion bonding primer works well.

Application of Primer

Ventilation: Prime in a well-ventilated area. Many quality primers have strong fumes.
Application Method: You can brush and roll the primer on the boxes. For doors, spraying is often better if you have the equipment.
Thin Coats: Apply thin, even coats of primer. Thick primer coats hide sanding texture poorly.
Drying and Light Sanding: Let the primer dry according to the instructions. Lightly sand the primed surfaces with very fine (220 or 320 grit) sandpaper or a sanding sponge after the first coat dries. This smooths out any raised grain or imperfections. Wipe dust away with a tack cloth.

If your original cabinets are a dark color, you might need two coats of primer to ensure the dark color doesn’t show through your new, lighter topcoat.

Phase 4: Painting Techniques

This is the fun part! Consistency and thin coats are key to avoiding drips and achieving a factory-smooth finish.

Brushing and Rolling Cabinets (The Standard Method)

If you are not spray painting kitchen cabinets, you rely on brushes and rollers.

Start with the Boxes: Paint the inside surfaces of the cabinet boxes first. Use an angled brush to cut in corners and edges.
Rolling: Use a small, high-density foam roller for the large flat areas. Roll slowly and deliberately. Do not overwork the paint.
Order of Operations for Doors:
- Paint the edges and back of the door first.
- Let them dry enough that they are not sticky.
- Flip them over and paint the front.
The “Wet Edge”: Always try to keep a “wet edge.” This means overlapping your fresh paint slightly into the area you just painted. This prevents lap marks—visible lines where paint overlaps dried paint.

Spray Painting Kitchen Cabinets (The Pro Look)

If you want the absolute smoothest, most professional finish, spraying is the way to go.

Equipment: You will need an HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) sprayer. These offer better control and less overspray than traditional guns.
Safety First: Wear a high-quality respirator mask. Overspray paint particles are hazardous when inhaled. Ensure the area is fully sealed off and ventilated.
Technique: Hold the sprayer perpendicular (straight up and down) to the surface. Move your arm in a smooth, consistent motion across the door. Overlap each pass by about 50%.
Thin Coats: Spraying requires very thin coats. It looks slightly translucent after the first pass, which is normal. Build the color up over 2-3 light coats.

Painting with Chalk Paint

If you chose chalk paint kitchen cabinets, the process is slightly different. Chalk paint adheres well to almost anything.

You still need to clean and lightly scuff the surface.
Apply thin coats of chalk paint.
After the paint is fully cured (usually 24-48 hours), you must seal it. Use a high-quality polyurethane or wax designed for durability. For a kitchen, a water-based polyurethane topcoat is usually best for water resistance.

Phase 5: Curing and Reassembly

Patience now ensures longevity later.

Drying vs. Curing

Paint dries when the liquid evaporates. It cures when the chemical process finishes, making it hard.

Dry to Touch: Usually 1–4 hours.
Recoat Time: Check the can (usually 4–12 hours).
Full Cure: This can take 7 days to 30 days, depending on the paint type. Avoid heavy scrubbing or slamming doors during the first week.

Applying Topcoats for Extra Protection

Even the best cabinet paint benefits from a clear protective coat, especially over cabinets painted with chalk paint or if you used a standard interior latex paint.

Use a clear satin or semi-gloss polyurethane.
Apply 1–2 thin, even topcoats using the same smooth rolling or spraying technique used for the color coats. Lightly sand with 320 grit between clear coats for maximum smoothness.

Reassembly

Once the final coat is dry and cured enough to handle (usually 24 hours), you can begin reassembly.
Reattach hinges and handles.
Hang the doors back onto the boxes.
Adjust doors so they hang straight and close properly. This may involve adjusting the hinge screws.

Common Pitfalls: Avoiding Cabinet Painting Mistakes

Knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do. Here are major cabinet painting mistakes to avoid.

Skipping Degreasing: The number one cause of peeling paint. Grease repels paint.
Not Sanding Enough: Glossy surfaces need a dull finish for paint to grab onto.
Using the Wrong Tools: Cheap brushes leave bristles marks. Cheap rollers leave fuzz behind. Invest in quality application tools.
Applying Coats Too Thick: Thick coats sag, drip, and take forever to cure properly, leading to a soft, easily damaged finish. Thin coats build to a hard finish slowly.
Rushing the Cure Time: If you load a drawer full of heavy dishes the day after painting, the paint will stick to the dish and peel off the drawer bottom. Allow for full cure time before heavy use.
Not Using Primer on Wood: Tannins in wood like oak or cedar will bleed through light paint colors, creating yellow or brown spots over time. Primer stops this.

Professional Cabinet Painting Tips for the DIYer

What advice do the pros give for achieving that flawless look? These professional cabinet painting tips elevate your DIY finish.

Work in Sections: Don’t try to paint the entire kitchen at once. Finish one cabinet box, then move to the next. Complete all doors before you stop for the day.
Temperature Control: Paint performs best in moderate temperatures (around 70°F or 21°C) with low humidity. Avoid painting in direct sun or when the AC/heat is blasting.
Drawer Fronts Separate: Always paint drawer fronts flat on saw horses, not while they are still slightly attached inside the box.
Use an Extension Pole for Boxes: When using a roller on the inside of the cabinet boxes, use a short extension pole. This keeps you farther back, allowing you to see the roller marks better and apply smoother pressure.

If you decide the sheer volume of work is too much, remember that hiring experts for professional cabinet painting tips implementation can still be cheaper than replacement, though more costly than DIY cabinet refinishing.

FAQs on Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Q: How long does it take to paint kitchen cabinets?
A: For a standard kitchen (15–20 doors/drawers), expect the entire process—prep, priming, and 2 coats of color plus clear coat—to take 4 to 7 full days, mostly due to drying and curing time between steps. Active work time is usually about 2–3 full days.

Q: Should I remove the doors or paint them in place?
A: Always remove the doors and hardware. Painting them while installed leads to uneven coverage, drips on hinges, and makes it nearly impossible to paint the edges properly.

Q: What is the best roller nap thickness for cabinet painting?
A: For smooth finishes, use a high-density 1/4 inch (or sometimes 3/8 inch) nap roller made specifically for fine finishes or cabinets. Thicker naps leave too much texture.

Q: Can I paint laminate cabinets?
A: Yes, you can paint laminate cabinets, but preparation is extra crucial. You must use a high-adhesion bonding primer (often shellac-based or specific bonding primer) after thoroughly cleaning and scuff-sanding the slick surface.

Q: Do I need to remove the cabinet boxes from the wall?
A: No. Only remove the doors, drawers, and hardware. The cabinet boxes stay mounted to the wall. You will need to tape off the interiors and countertops thoroughly.

Q: What is the difference between painting and refinishing kitchen cabinets?
A: While often used interchangeably, “painting” refers strictly to applying a coat of new color paint. “Refinishing” is a broader term that includes painting, staining, or applying specialized sealers to restore or change the look of the existing wood surface. DIY cabinet refinishing usually implies a full paint job in modern context.