Easy Guide: How To Refinish Kitchen Cabinet

Can I refinish my own kitchen cabinets? Yes, you absolutely can refinish your own kitchen cabinets! Refinishing cabinets is a fantastic DIY cabinet resurfacing project. It can greatly update your kitchen without the high cost of replacement. This guide will walk you through every step. We will help you achieve a professional look at home.

Why Refinish Your Kitchen Cabinets?

Refinishing cabinets is a smart choice for many homeowners. It saves money. It lets you change the style. New paint or stain transforms the whole room. It adds value to your home.

Refinishing is different from painting. Refinishing often involves deeper preparation. It might include stripping the old finish. It might involve restaining or applying a fresh, durable coat.

Deciphering the Project Scope: Refinish vs. Reface vs. Replace

Before starting, know your options.

Option	Description	Cost Level	Skill Level Needed
Refinish	Cleaning, sanding, and applying new paint or stain over the existing surface.	Low	Medium
Re-face	Keeping the box structure. Replacing the doors and drawer fronts.	Medium	Medium-High
Replace	Removing old cabinets entirely and installing new ones.	High	Varies (Contractor often needed)

For this guide, we focus on the full refinishing process. This involves deep preparation for a long-lasting finish.

Phase 1: Planning and Preparation for Cabinet Refinishing

Good planning stops problems later. This phase covers what you need to buy and where to work.

Essential Tools and Supplies Checklist

Gathering everything first makes the kitchen cabinet refinishing steps smooth.

Cleaning Supplies: Degreaser (TSP substitute is great), mild soap, clean rags, sponges.
Stripping Materials (If needed): Chemical stripper, scrapers, steel wool, gloves, eye protection.
Sanding Supplies: Orbital sander, sanding sponges, various grits of sandpaper (80, 120, 150, 220).
Repair Materials: Wood filler, wood glue, clamps.
Painting/Staining Supplies: High-quality brushes, rollers (foam or high-density), primer, paint or stain, tack cloths.
Protection: Drop cloths (plastic and canvas), painter’s tape, ventilation fan.
Hardware: Screwdrivers, drill, new cabinet hardware replacement sets (if desired).

Setting Up Your Workspace

Ventilation is key for safety. Fumes from strippers and paint are strong.

Clear the Kitchen: Remove everything from counters and inside the cabinets.
Protect Floors and Appliances: Lay down heavy drop cloths. Secure them with tape. Canvas cloths are best near paint, as plastic can be slick.
Ventilation: Open windows wide. Use fans to blow air out of the room. This pulls fumes away.
Labeling: Keep doors and drawers organized. Use numbered labels on the cabinet backs and corresponding doors/drawers. This saves huge headaches later.

Phase 2: Removing and Prepping Cabinet Components

This stage prepares the surfaces for the new finish. Proper prep ensures the best paint for kitchen cabinets sticks well.

Removing Doors, Drawers, and Hardware

Take your time here. Rushing causes damage to the wood or hinges.

Remove Doors: Use a screwdriver to detach the hinges from the cabinet frame. Support the door as you unscrew it.
Remove Drawers: Slide drawers out. Remove the slides or stops holding them in place.
Hardware Removal: Unscrew all knobs and pulls. Place all screws in a labeled plastic baggie for each door. Keeping hardware separate prevents lost parts. If you are doing a cabinet hardware replacement, set the old hardware aside for disposal or recycling.

Cleaning Kitchen Cabinets Before Painting

This step is critical. Paint will not stick to grease or grime.

Use a strong degreaser. A TSP substitute works well to cut through cooking oils. Wipe all surfaces—doors, drawer fronts, and cabinet boxes—thoroughly. Rinse with clean water and let everything dry completely.

Dealing with the Old Finish: Stripping Old Cabinet Finish

If your cabinets have thick paint, varnish, or peeling laminate, you might need to strip the finish. If you are simply painting over a good factory finish, heavy sanding (Phase 3) might be enough.

When to Strip:

The old finish is chipping or bubbling.
You are switching from a dark stain to a very light paint color.

How to Strip:

Apply the chemical stripper liberally, following the manufacturer’s safety rules. Wear heavy gloves and eye protection.
Let it sit until the finish bubbles up or softens. This can take time.
Use a plastic scraper or coarse steel wool to gently remove the softened finish. Work with the grain of the wood.
Clean off all stripper residue with mineral spirits or water, as directed by the stripper instructions. Allow the wood to dry fully.

Phase 3: Repair and Sanding Kitchen Cabinets for Painting

Surface imperfections show through paint. Good sanding provides the necessary “tooth” for adhesion.

Minor Repairs

Fix any damage before sanding.

Fill Holes: Use wood filler for dings, deep scratches, or holes from old hardware.
Secure Joints: If any cabinet joints are loose, use wood glue and clamps to secure them while they dry. Wipe away excess glue immediately.

Sanding Kitchen Cabinets for Painting

Sanding is the most labor-intensive part of kitchen cabinet refinishing steps. It must be done right.

Sanding Grits Progression:

Initial Abrasion (If stripping was skipped): Start with 120-grit sandpaper. This dulls the existing finish. It creates a surface the primer can grab onto. If the current finish is glossy, use 100-grit briefly, then move up.
Medium Smoothing: Switch to 150-grit sandpaper. Smooth out any scratch marks left by the 120-grit.
Final Smoothness: Finish with 180-grit or 220-grit sandpaper. The surface should feel smooth to the touch, not rough.

Pro Tip for Doors: Use sanding sponges or wrap sandpaper around a small block of wood. This keeps the pressure even across flat panels.

Dust Removal After Sanding

Remove all sanding dust. Dust ruins paint jobs.

Use a shop vacuum with a brush attachment.
Wipe down every surface again using a tack cloth. A tack cloth picks up the finest particles that a vacuum might miss.

Phase 4: Priming for the Best Finish

Primer seals the wood. It blocks stains from bleeding through your new paint. It is essential for a long-lasting finish.

Choosing the Right Primer

The best paint for kitchen cabinets starts with the right primer. Oil-based or shellac-based primers are excellent for sealing wood tannins. Water-based (latex) primers are easier to clean up but might not seal as well against wood knots.

If you are staining, use a stain-blocking primer.
If you are painting, use a high-adhesion bonding primer, especially if the cabinets are laminate or very slick wood.

Application of Primer

Apply primer just as you will apply the topcoat—thin, even coats.

Brush/Roll Edges: Use a small brush for corners and edges.
Large Surfaces: Use a high-density foam roller for flat areas. Keep your coats thin. Thick primer runs easily.
Dry Time: Let the primer dry fully per the can’s instructions.
Light Sanding (Between Coats): Lightly sand the primer coat with 220-grit or higher sandpaper. This removes any raised grain or dust nibs stuck in the primer. Wipe clean with a tack cloth before the next coat. Most cabinets require two coats of primer.

Phase 5: Applying Your New Cabinet Finish

This is where the transformation happens. Choosing the right product is vital for durability.

Selecting the Best Paint for Kitchen Cabinets

The finish must handle heat, grease, and constant touching. Standard wall paint is too soft.

Types of Cabinet Finishes:

Oil-Based Alkyd Paints: Offer a very hard, durable finish. They level well, meaning brush strokes disappear. Downside: strong fumes and slow drying time.
Water-Based Acrylic/Urethane Enamels: These are the modern favorite for DIY cabinet resurfacing. They dry faster, have low odor, and resist yellowing. Look for products specifically labeled as “Cabinet and Trim Enamel.”
Lacquers: Professional choice. Very hard finish but hard to apply correctly without professional spray equipment.

Durability is Key: When selecting paint, look for high enamel content. This usually signals a more durable, scrubbable finish.

Staining Cabinets Instead of Painting

If you opted to strip the old finish to reveal natural wood, you will stain.

Applying Stain: Apply stain evenly with a rag or brush, working in small sections.
Wiping Off Excess: Wipe off the excess stain quickly using a clean, dry rag. This controls the color depth. The longer the stain sits, the darker the wood gets.
Drying: Allow several days for the stain to cure fully before moving to the top coat. Stains need time to dry completely.

Applying the Top Coat

The types of cabinet finishes you choose dictate the application method. Spraying gives the smoothest results, but brushing and rolling are achievable for beginners.

First Color Coat: Apply the first coat thinly. Use the same technique as the primer (brush edges, roll flats). Avoid overworking the paint.
Drying and Sanding: Let the first coat dry completely. Lightly sand with 220-grit or fine sanding sponge. Clean dust thoroughly.
Second Color Coat: Apply the second coat. For most projects, two color coats are enough for full coverage.

Choosing a Durable Top Coat for Cabinets

Even high-quality paint benefits from an extra layer of protection, especially on high-use areas like drawer fronts and sink cabinet doors.

Polyurethane (Oil or Water-Based): Offers great protection against scratches and moisture. Oil-based poly adds an amber tint; water-based stays clear.
Conversion Varnish: Used by professionals. Extremely tough but requires professional application.

For DIY cabinet resurfacing, a high-quality, clear water-based polyurethane applied over your cabinet enamel offers excellent protection without drastically changing the color. Apply one or two thin top coats only to the doors and drawer fronts, if desired, for maximum longevity.

Phase 6: Reassembly and Final Touches

The project nears completion once the finish is cured.

Curing Time is Important

Paint needs time to dry, but it needs longer to cure. Curing means the solvents have evaporated and the finish has hardened completely. Cabinet refinishing tips always emphasize patience here.

Dry to Touch: Usually a few hours.
Recoat Time: Usually 4-24 hours.
Full Cure: Can take 1 to 4 weeks depending on the product. Wait at least one week before reinstalling hardware or slamming doors.

Cabinet Hardware Replacement

Install your new knobs and pulls now. This is the time to personalize your look. If you drilled new holes, use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw threads to ensure a tight fit.

If you kept the old hole spacing, installation is simple: screw the new hardware onto the doors and drawers.

Reattaching Doors and Drawers

Hang Doors: Reattach the hinges to the cabinet frames. Align the doors carefully. Adjust the hinge screws (usually the side and depth screws) until the doors hang straight and close flush with each other.
Insert Drawers: Reinstall the drawer slides or mounting hardware. Slide the drawers back into place.

Essential Cabinet Refinishing Tips for Success

Follow these final tips to ensure your hard work lasts for years.

Temperature Matters: Paint and stripper work best in moderate temperatures (around 70°F). Avoid very high humidity, which slows drying significantly.
Never Skip Primer: Primer bridges the gap between the old surface and the new paint. Skipping it leads to peeling paint.
Thin Coats Rule: Thin coats dry faster and level better than thick coats. Two thin coats are always better than one thick, messy coat.
Use Proper Tools: Cheap brushes leave bristles and streaks. Invest in high-quality angled sash brushes for detail work and excellent foam rollers for large panels.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Cabinet Refinishing

Q: How long does it take to refinish kitchen cabinets?
A: For an average-sized kitchen (15-20 doors/drawers), the actual hands-on work takes 4 to 7 days, spread out due to drying times. If you include curing time before heavy use, plan for 2 to 3 weeks total.

Q: Can I paint over stained cabinets without stripping?
A: Yes, if the stain is in good condition (not peeling or flaking). You must clean thoroughly, sand heavily (using 120-grit minimum), and use a high-quality, stain-blocking bonding primer. This is a common method for DIY cabinet resurfacing.

Q: What grit sandpaper should I use for the final sanding before the top coat?
A: After the final primer or color coat, use very fine sandpaper, like 220-grit or higher (e.g., 320-grit) sanding sponges. You are just knocking down dust nibs, not removing much material.

Q: Is it better to spray or brush/roll kitchen cabinets?
A: Spraying provides the smoothest, factory-like finish because paint dries instantly and doesn’t touch any surface except the cabinet itself. However, brushing and rolling are perfectly fine if you use high-quality tools and apply thin coats.

Q: What is the most durable paint finish for cabinets?
A: High-quality acrylic-alkyd hybrids or specialized cabinet enamels offer the best balance of durability, ease of application, and low odor for the home DIYer. A durable top coat for cabinets like clear polyurethane adds further scratch resistance.