Can I refinish my own kitchen cabinets? Yes, you absolutely can refinish your own kitchen cabinets! Refinishing kitchen cabinets is a great way to update your kitchen without the huge cost of replacement. This detailed guide will walk you through all the essential cabinet refinishing steps to give your kitchen a fresh, new look using DIY cabinet painting or staining techniques.
Why Refinish Your Cabinets?
Updating old cabinets makes a big difference. Refinishing saves money. It lets you pick your perfect style. You get brand new looking cabinets for less money than buying new ones.
Refinishing is better than replacement when:
* The cabinet boxes are still sturdy.
* You want a specific color or finish.
* Your budget is tight.
Prepping for Success: Planning Your Project
Good planning prevents problems later. Before you start, you need to choose your method and gather supplies.
Choosing Your Finish: Paint vs. Stain
You must decide if you want to paint or stain your cabinets. This choice depends on the wood type and your desired look.
| Finish Type | Best For | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Painting | Almost any cabinet (wood, laminate) | Hides wood grain well; wide color choice | Shows wear easily; requires very careful prep |
| Staining | Real wood cabinets (oak, maple) | Enhances natural wood beauty; durable | Cannot hide wood flaws; limited color change |
If you have old cabinets with a tough finish, kitchen cabinet resurfacing might be an option, but usually, refinishing covers it.
Deciphering Choosing Cabinet Paint Colors
Color choice matters a lot for your kitchen feel. Think about your countertops and flooring.
- Light Colors (White, Cream): Make small kitchens look bigger. They feel bright and clean.
- Dark Colors (Navy, Charcoal): Add drama and sophistication. They hide minor scuffs well.
- Gray Tones: Offer a modern, neutral backdrop.
Always get small samples first. Test the paint color in your kitchen light. Natural light and artificial light change how colors look.
The Essential Supplies Checklist
Gathering everything first makes the job much smoother. Here is what you will need for most cabinet refinishing steps:
- Screwdriver set (for removing doors/drawers)
- Degreaser or TSP substitute
- Sandpaper (various grits: 80, 120, 220)
- Orbital or pole sander (optional, but helpful)
- Tack cloths
- Painter’s tape and plastic sheeting
- Best cabinet primers (oil-based or shellac-based)
- High-quality cabinet paint or stain
- Brushes (high-density foam or angled sash)
- Rollers (3/8-inch nap for smooth finish)
- Ventilation equipment (fans, respirator)
Step 1: Complete Cabinet Removal
Start by emptying the cabinets. Take everything out. Label shelves and doors if you plan to reuse them inside.
Taking Doors and Hardware Off
- Close the door.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the hinge screws. Keep all screws organized.
- Place doors face up on a clean, protected surface (like sawhorses covered with drop cloths).
- Label the back of each door (e.g., “Upper Left,” “Drawer 3”). This stops mix-ups later.
- Remove all knobs and pulls now. Keep hardware separate if you plan to reuse it, or set it aside for cabinet hardware replacement.
Step 2: Deep Cleaning is Crucial
Grease and grime stop paint or stain from sticking. This step is vital for lasting results.
Use a strong cleaner. TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) works well, but a TSP substitute is safer for the environment and your hands.
Wipe down every surface—doors, drawer fronts, and the cabinet boxes themselves. Rinse surfaces with clean water. Let them dry completely. If they feel sticky, clean them again.
Step 3: Surface Preparation and Sanding Kitchen Cabinets
This is the hardest work, but it ensures a professional look. Surface prep determines how well your finish sticks.
Dealing with Old Finishes
If you are using a paint or stain that bonds well (like specialized cabinet paint), light sanding might be enough. If the old finish is peeling or glossy, you need more aggressive prep.
For tough finishes, you might need cabinet stripping and staining.
Stripping Old Finishes
If paint or varnish is thick, chemical stripping may be necessary before sanding.
- Apply the stripper according to the can directions. Work in a well-ventilated area.
- Let the chemical work until the finish bubbles or softens.
- Scrape off the softened finish using a plastic scraper. Avoid digging into the wood.
- Clean residue off thoroughly with mineral spirits or water, as needed by the stripper instructions.
The Sanding Process
Proper sanding kitchen cabinets creates “tooth” for the primer to grab onto.
- Start with Rough Grit (80 or 100): Use this only if you need to remove deep scratches, heavy texture, or residual finish after stripping. Use sparingly.
- Move to Medium Grit (120 or 150): This levels the surface after rough sanding or removes minor sheen from glossy finishes.
- Finish with Fine Grit (180 or 220): This final pass smooths the surface before priming. Do not use anything finer than 220 grit if you plan to paint, as it can make the paint look too slick and not adhere well.
Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Wipe away all sanding dust with a vacuum, then a damp cloth, and finally a tack cloth. No dust should remain.
Refinishing Laminate Cabinets
Laminate cabinets pose a unique challenge because they are non-porous. You cannot use standard stain or paint without special prep.
For refinishing laminate cabinets:
1. Clean thoroughly (Step 2).
2. Lightly scuff the surface with 220-grit sandpaper. You are not trying to remove the laminate, just dull the shine.
3. Wipe clean.
4. You must use a bonding primer designed for slick surfaces, like a shellac-based primer or a liquid deglosser followed by a high-adhesion primer.
5. Apply high-quality cabinet paint formulated for difficult surfaces.
Step 4: Priming for Durability
Primer seals the wood, blocks stains, and gives the topcoat something to stick to. Never skip primer, especially when painting.
Selecting the Best Cabinet Primers
The right primer depends on the substrate (what you are painting over) and the topcoat.
- For Bare Wood: Use a stain-blocking primer (like oil-based or shellac). This stops natural wood tannins from bleeding through white paint.
- For Previously Finished or Laminate: Use a bonding or adhesion primer. These are designed to grip slick surfaces.
- For Painting Dark to Light: A high-hiding, tinted primer (often tinted gray) will help your final topcoat require fewer coats.
Apply the primer thinly and evenly. Allow the full recommended curing time. Lightly sand (220 grit) between primer coats if the manufacturer suggests it, followed by a tack cloth wipe.
Step 5: Applying the Finish (Painting or Staining)
Now for the fun part—applying the color!
DIY Cabinet Painting Techniques
DIY cabinet painting requires patience. Thin coats are always better than thick coats. Thick coats run, sag, and take forever to dry.
- Tools Matter: Use a high-quality brush for cutting edges and corners. Use a small foam roller (3/8-inch nap) for flat panels to get a smooth finish.
- First Coat: Apply a thin, even coat. Don’t try to cover everything perfectly in the first coat. Let it dry fully.
- Sanding Between Coats: After the first coat is dry (usually 4–6 hours, check your can), gently “de-nib” the surface with 320-grit sandpaper or fine sanding sponges. Remove all dust.
- Second Coat: Apply the second coat slightly heavier than the first, but still evenly. This coat usually provides full coverage.
- Third Coat (Optional): If the color is bold or coverage is patchy, apply a third thin coat after light sanding.
Allow the paint to cure completely before moving the doors or reinstalling hardware. This can take several days, depending on the paint type (oil-based takes longer than latex).
Cabinet Stripping and Staining
If you chose to stain, you are working with wood grain.
- Apply Wood Conditioner (If needed): Soft woods like pine soak up stain unevenly. Use a pre-stain wood conditioner first if your wood is blotchy.
- Apply Stain: Wipe the stain on liberally with a rag or foam brush, moving with the grain.
- Wipe Off Excess: Wait the recommended time (usually 5–15 minutes). The longer you wait, the darker the color. Wipe off all excess stain completely. If you leave excess stain, it cures sticky and unevenly.
- Curing: Let the stain dry fully (often 24–48 hours).
Topcoats for Stained Cabinets
Stain itself offers no protection. You need a protective clear coat for durability.
- Polyurethane: This is the standard choice. Use oil-based for maximum durability or water-based for faster drying and less odor. Apply 2–3 thin coats, sanding lightly (320 grit) between coats.
- Conversion Varnish: Professional grade; very hard finish, but hard for DIYers to apply perfectly.
Step 6: Cabinet Restoration Techniques for Repairs
While you are prepping, look for damage. Good cabinet restoration techniques hide flaws.
- Dents and Gouges: Use wood filler matching the stain color (if staining) or a general wood putty (if painting). Sand smooth before priming.
- Scratches on Wood Doors: If staining, deep scratches can be disguised using dark wax crayon or a furniture marker lightly applied before the final topcoat.
- Worn Edges: If painting, sanding might have exposed bare wood on the edges. Ensure these areas get extra primer and potentially an extra topcoat for wear protection.
Step 7: Reassembly and Cabinet Hardware Replacement
Once the finish is fully cured (this means hard to the touch and resistant to light scratching—wait at least a week for maximum hardness), you can put everything back together.
Reattaching Doors and Drawers
- Install hinges onto the doors first, if they were removed.
- Carefully align the hinges with the cabinet box mounting plates.
- Attach the doors. It is common for them to need adjustment.
- Adjust the hinge screws (usually the side and depth screws on modern European hinges) until the gaps between doors are even and they close smoothly.
Cabinet Hardware Replacement
If you chose new pulls or knobs, now is the time to install them.
- Tip: Use the old holes if possible. If your new hardware has different hole spacing, you will need to drill new holes. Drill from the inside of the door out to prevent splintering the exterior finish.
Considering Kitchen Cabinet Resurfacing vs. Refinishing
Sometimes, the surface is too far gone for just paint or stain. Kitchen cabinet resurfacing usually means applying a new, thin layer over the existing surface, often using specialized laminates, vinyl wraps, or thick enamel coatings applied professionally.
Refinishing (paint or stain) is changing the look of the wood itself. Resurfacing is covering the wood entirely with a new skin. For most DIYers, refinishing via paint or stain is the more achievable project.
Final Curing Time
Even when dry to the touch, cabinet finishes need time to harden fully. This is called curing.
- Paint: Wait 3–7 days before placing heavy items inside or wiping down vigorously.
- Stain/Polyurethane: Wait 1–2 weeks before heavy use, especially for the clear coat.
Treat your newly refinished cabinets gently for the first month to ensure maximum longevity.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long does it take to refinish kitchen cabinets?
A: The time varies greatly based on the size of your kitchen and your chosen method. If you rely on DIY cabinet painting and apply 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint, expect 4 to 7 days minimum, allowing for necessary drying times between every single step. Stripping old finishes adds significant time.
Q: What is the most durable paint for kitchen cabinets?
A: Oil-based enamel paints or high-quality two-part acrylic urethanes offer the hardest, most durable finish. For water-based options, look for “Cabinet and Trim” specific paints, which usually contain added hardeners to mimic oil performance.
Q: Can I use a paint sprayer instead of brushing and rolling?
A: Yes, spraying yields the smoothest finish, often superior to brush and roll. However, spraying requires a much higher level of prep, proper ventilation, and specialized equipment (HVLP sprayer). It also uses more material. If you choose to spray, use very thin coats and be prepared to spend time masking the entire kitchen to contain overspray.
Q: Do I need to remove the cabinet boxes from the wall?
A: No, for standard refinishing, you only need to remove the doors, drawers, and hardware. You will clean, sand, prime, and paint the fixed cabinet boxes in place.
Q: What if my cabinets are already painted but chipping?
A: If the paint is chipping, you must remove the failing paint first. Scrape off loose areas. Then, lightly sand the entire surface (using 120 or 150 grit) to dull the shine. Use a strong bonding primer over the entire surface before applying your new topcoat. This ensures the new paint sticks where the old paint was failing.