How To Repair Kitchen Faucet: DIY Guide

Can I repair my kitchen faucet myself? Yes, most common kitchen faucet problems like drips, leaks, and handle issues are simple enough for a homeowner to fix with basic tools and a little patience. This guide will show you how to handle the most frequent repairs.

Gathering Your Faucet Repair Tools

Before you start any job, you need the right gear. Having the proper faucet repair tools makes the job much faster and safer. Do not start taking things apart until you have these items ready.

Essential Tool Checklist

Here are the basic tools you will need for most small repairs:

Adjustable Wrench: This is crucial for loosening nuts.
Screwdrivers: You will need both Phillips head and flat-head types.
Allen Wrenches (Hex Keys): Many modern faucets use these to secure handles.
Pliers: Needle-nose pliers help grab small parts. Channel-lock pliers are good for bigger jobs.
Utility Knife or Small Pick: Useful for prying off decorative caps.
White Vinegar: Great for soaking and cleaning mineral deposits.
Towel or Rag: To catch water drips and protect the sink finish.
Flashlight or Headlamp: It gets dark under the sink!
Replacement Parts: Know what kind of faucet you have (cartridge, ball, disk, or compression) before you buy parts.

Diagnosing Common Faucet Problems

A faulty faucet usually shows one of a few common signs. Pinpointing the exact issue helps you choose the right fix.

Faucet Leak Types and Causes

Leak Location	Common Cause	What to Check First
Dripping Faucet	Worn-out washer or cartridge	Cartridge or seals
Leaky Faucet Spout Base	Loose connections or bad O-rings	O-rings near the base
Water Leaking Under Sink	Loose supply line connections	Water supply line nuts
Faucet Handle Leaking	Worn packing nuts or seals	Packing nut tightness

How to Fix Dripping Faucet Issues

A constant drip is annoying and wastes water. The most common reason to fix dripping faucet issues is a bad internal seal or cartridge. This fix is often the first repair homeowners tackle.

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

Safety first! You must turn off the water before you open the faucet.

Look under the sink cabinet.
You should see two shut-off valves (one for hot, one for cold).
Turn both valves clockwise until they stop.
Turn the faucet on (both hot and cold) to drain any remaining water pressure in the lines.

Step 2: Accessing the Faucet Internals

The way you access the inside depends on your faucet style. For many single-handle models, you need to remove the handle first.

Look for a small set screw, often hidden under a decorative cap (sometimes red/blue).
Use a small flat-head screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen this screw.
Gently lift the handle straight up and off the faucet body.

Step 3: Replacing the Cartridge or Seals

This is the core part of the job to fix dripping faucet woes.

For Cartridge Faucets (Most Common Single-Handle Types)

If you have a cartridge faucet, you will need to replace kitchen faucet cartridge if it is cracked or worn.

Once the handle is off, you will see a retaining nut or clip holding the cartridge in place. Remove the clip using needle-nose pliers or unscrew the nut.
Carefully pull the old cartridge straight up. Note its orientation—it must go back in the same way.
Take the old cartridge to a hardware store to ensure you buy an exact match.
Insert the new cartridge, making sure the tabs align with the slots in the faucet body.
Reinstall the retaining nut or clip firmly.

For Compression Faucets (Older Two-Handle Types)

If you have an older two-handle faucet, you likely need to replace the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem.

Unscrew the valve stem assembly.
At the bottom, you will find a small screw holding a rubber washer.
Replace the old, flattened washer with a new one of the exact same size.
If the valve seat (where the washer presses against) is rough, you may need a valve seat grinder tool to smooth it out before reassembling.

Step 4: Reassembly and Testing

Put everything back in reverse order.

Reattach the handle and secure the set screw.
Slowly turn the water supply valves back on under the sink.
Check for drips. If the drip continues, you may need to disassemble kitchen faucet again to ensure the new part is seated correctly or that the leak is not coming from the spout base.

How to Repair Leaky Faucet Spout

If water pools around the base of the spout, it means water is escaping where the spout meets the faucet body. This often means the O-rings need attention. This is how you repair leaky faucet spout.

Step 1: Removing the Spout

Shut off the water supply and drain the lines, just as before.
You must usually remove the handle assembly first to access the spout mounting hardware.
Examine the base of the spout. Some spouts pull straight up after a set screw is removed from the back or side. Others twist off. Read your faucet manual if you are unsure of the mechanism.

Step 2: Inspecting and Replacing O-Rings

Once the spout body is free, look at the faucet body underneath where the spout sat. You will see one or more rubber O-rings seated in grooves.
Use a small pick or utility knife to gently roll the old O-rings out of their grooves. Be careful not to scratch the metal underneath.
Take the old O-rings to the store for an exact match. Faucet repair kits often contain various sizes.
Coat the new O-rings lightly with plumber’s silicone grease (this helps them seal and last longer).
Roll the new, greased O-rings back into the grooves.

Step 3: Reattaching the Spout

Carefully slide the spout back over the faucet body, making sure the new O-rings are not pinched during insertion.
Reinstall any screws or locking mechanisms.
Turn the water back on and test for leaks around the base.

Troubleshooting Faucet Handle Issues

When the handle is loose, hard to move, or won’t stay in place, you need to troubleshoot faucet handle issues. This usually involves checking the set screw or the internal mechanism connecting the handle to the valve stem or cartridge.

The Handle is Loose

A loose handle means the set screw that holds it onto the faucet body has slipped.

Locate the set screw. It’s usually found underneath the handle, sometimes hidden by a decorative button.
Use the correct Allen wrench or screwdriver to firmly tighten this screw. Do not overtighten, as you could strip the threads or crack the handle base.
Test the handle operation.

The Handle is Stiff or Hard to Turn

If the handle takes too much force, friction is the problem.

Remove the handle completely (see previous steps).
Examine the part the handle attaches to (the splined stem or cartridge top).
Wipe away any grit, dirt, or mineral deposits from the stem or cartridge.
If you have a ball-type faucet, the friction is often due to worn tension springs or cam washers located right under the ball assembly. Replacing these components will smooth the movement.
Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the stem or cartridge before reattaching the handle.

Fixing a Noisy Faucet: Eliminating Annoying Sounds

If your faucet makes humming, buzzing, or banging sounds when running, you have a fix noisy faucet situation on your hands. This noise is almost always caused by water moving too fast or vibrations in the components.

Causes of Faucet Noise

High Water Pressure: If the noise happens with all faucets in your house, the overall home water pressure might be too high. You may need a pressure regulator installed by a plumber.
Worn Washers/Seals: Loose or damaged washers or seals inside the faucet body vibrate when water passes over them, creating a humming sound. Replacing the internal seals or replace kitchen faucet cartridge often solves this.
Loose Connections: A loose supply line or faucet base can vibrate against the sink or cabinet wall.

Steps to Quiet the Noise

Tighten Everything: Go under the sink and check that the supply lines and the mounting nuts holding the faucet to the sink deck are tight. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten loose faucet connections.
Check Aerator: A restricted flow due to a clogged replace kitchen faucet aerator can cause internal pressure fluctuations leading to noise. Clean or replace the aerator (see dedicated section below).
Replace Cartridge/Stem: If tightening does not work, follow the drip repair steps above to replace the internal parts. New, firm components should stop internal vibration.

Cleaning and Replacing the Kitchen Faucet Aerator

The aerator is the small screen piece at the very tip of the spout. It mixes air with water to give a smooth flow. If the flow is weak or sprays erratically, you need to clean or replace kitchen faucet aerator.

Cleaning the Aerator

Hold the faucet spout firmly.
Use pliers (wrap the jaws with a rag to prevent scratching the finish) or turn the aerator counter-clockwise by hand. It should unscrew easily.
If it is stuck, soak a rag in white vinegar and wrap it around the aerator tip for 30 minutes. The acid helps break down mineral buildup.
Once removed, soak the aerator screen assembly in a cup of white vinegar for several hours.
Scrub any remaining debris gently with an old toothbrush.
Rinse well and screw it back onto the spout, hand-tightening only.

When to Replace the Aerator

If cleaning doesn’t restore a smooth stream, the screen mesh might be damaged or permanently blocked. Simply buy a new aerator that matches the thread size of your faucet (usually 15/16 inch or 55/64 inch for male threads).

Complete Faucet Replacement: How to Install New Kitchen Faucet

Sometimes, a faucet is too old, too damaged, or you simply want a new look. Learning how to install new kitchen faucet is a great way to upgrade your kitchen.

Preparation for Installation

Shut Off Water: Turn off both hot and cold supply lines under the sink.
Clear the Area: Remove everything from under the sink cabinet to give yourself room to work.
Disconnect Supply Lines: Use your adjustable wrench to disconnect the flexible water supply lines from the shut-off valves. Have a small bucket ready for residual water.
Remove Old Faucet Mounting Nuts: Look up under the sink deck where the faucet enters the counter. There will be large mounting nuts or brackets securing the faucet base. Use a basin wrench (a special long-handled tool) or a large socket wrench to loosen and remove these nuts.
Remove Old Faucet: Go above the sink. Lift the entire old faucet assembly straight up and out of the mounting hole.
Clean the Surface: Scrape off any old plumber’s putty or caulk residue from the sink deck using a plastic scraper or putty knife.

Installing the New Faucet

New faucets usually come with clear instructions, but the general steps are similar.

Step 1: Mounting the New Faucet Base

If your new faucet uses plumber’s putty (most do not anymore; they use a rubber gasket), roll a thin rope of putty and place it around the base plate (escutcheon). If it uses a gasket, place the gasket on the bottom of the faucet base.
Feed the supply lines and mounting shafts of the new faucet down through the mounting hole(s) in the sink deck.
From below the sink, slide the washers and mounting nuts (or mounting bracket) onto the shafts.
Hand-tighten the nuts first. Check the alignment of the faucet above the sink to ensure it is straight.
Use your basin wrench or socket wrench to firmly tighten the mounting nuts. They need to be snug so the faucet does not swivel, but do not overtighten until you crack the sink material.

Step 2: Connecting Water Lines

Connect the new flexible supply lines from the faucet base to the hot and cold shut-off valves.
Ensure you connect hot to hot (usually the left side) and cold to cold (usually the right side).
Use an adjustable wrench to tighten these connections. These connections should be snug but do not wrench them too hard, as you can damage the plastic threads on the supply lines.

Step 3: Final Checks

Make sure the handle is in the ‘off’ position.
Slowly turn the hot and cold water supply valves back on under the sink. Listen for immediate leaks.
Let the water run for a minute, alternating between hot and cold, checking under the sink again for drips.
Test the handle operation.

Deciphering Your Faucet Type: Parts Comparison

Knowing what kind of faucet you have is key to effective repair. Faucets generally fall into four main categories based on their internal mechanism.

Faucet Type	Internal Mechanism	How It Works	Common Issue
Cartridge	Movable plastic or brass cartridge	Turns to align holes for water flow.	Leaks when cartridge wears out.
Ball (Single Handle)	Rotating metal or plastic ball with slots.	Ball swivels to control flow and temperature.	Springs and seals wear down, causing drips.
Ceramic Disk	Two ceramic disks—one fixed, one rotating.	The disks slide over each other to control water.	Very durable; failure usually requires full disk replacement.
Compression (Two Handle)	Rubber washer pressed down onto a valve seat.	Turning the handle compresses the washer to stop water.	Washer wears out, leading to drips.

To know which part to order when you disassemble kitchen faucet, look closely at what you pull out. Cartridge faucets have a cylindrical plastic or brass part. Ball faucets have a distinct dome shape containing the ball.

Maintaining Your Faucet for Longevity

Regular, light maintenance prevents major repairs. Focus on keeping the moving parts clean and lubricated.

Regular Cleaning Tips

Wipe down chrome and stainless steel surfaces weekly with a soft cloth and mild soap. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can damage the finish.
Monthly, briefly unscrew the replace kitchen faucet aerator and rinse it to keep flow strong.
If you notice mineral buildup (white or green crust), soak the affected area in vinegar.

Lubrication Schedule

Every six months, perform these simple checks to tighten loose faucet connections or lubricate parts:

Check the handle tightness.
If you have a single-handle faucet, briefly remove the handle and apply a thin layer of plumber’s silicone grease to the outside of the cartridge before reassembling. This keeps the handle movement smooth and prevents premature wear.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Repair

Q1: How do I know if I need to replace the cartridge or just the O-rings?

A: If the water is dripping directly from the spout when the faucet is off, the problem is almost certainly the internal seals within the cartridge or the washer. If the leak is around the base of the spout or the handle stem, then the O-rings or packing seals are the likely culprits.

Q2: Can I replace just one part of a ceramic disk faucet?

A: Ceramic disk faucets are very robust. If they fail, it is usually because the ceramic disks themselves are chipped or the seals around them have hardened. It is often easiest and most effective to replace the entire ceramic disk cartridge assembly rather than trying to source individual internal seals for this type.

Q3: Why does my kitchen faucet make noise even when the water is fully off?

A: If you hear an occasional noise (like a faint humming or clicking) when the faucet is completely closed, this is usually not a true leak but rather pressure fluctuation in your home’s water lines, possibly caused by a malfunctioning pressure regulator elsewhere in the house. This requires checking overall home water pressure to fix noisy faucet effectively.

Q4: My faucet handle is stuck and I can’t remove the set screw. What should I do?

A: If the screw is stripped or corroded, try applying penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the screw head and letting it sit for 15 minutes. If that fails, you may need a screw extractor kit designed for small screws, or you might have to carefully drill out the head of the set screw to free the handle. Always use the correct size Allen wrench to avoid stripping it in the first place.