Can I sharpen my own kitchen knives? Yes, you absolutely can sharpen your own kitchen knives! Sharpening your knives is a vital skill for any home cook. Dull knives are hard to use and can even be more dangerous than sharp ones. This guide will teach you the best ways to keep your blades ready for action. We will cover several methods, from simple touch-ups to full edge restoration.
Why Keeping Your Knives Sharp Matters
A sharp knife cuts food easily. It makes cooking faster and safer. Dull knives slip. They crush food instead of slicing it cleanly. Learning proper knife honing techniques will save you time and effort in the kitchen. Sharp knives also let you do more delicate work, like peeling thin skins or mincing herbs finely.
Honing vs. Sharpening a Knife: What’s the Difference?
Many people mix up honing and sharpening. They are two separate actions. Knowing the difference is key to proper knife care.
- Honing is straightening the very fine, tiny edge that gets bent over during use. Think of it like brushing your hair. It puts the edge back in line. You should hone often—even daily if you use a knife heavily.
- Sharpening is actually removing metal from the sides of the blade to create a new, sharp edge. This is done when honing no longer fixes the problem. Sharpening removes metal, so it must be done less often than honing.
Tools for Knife Sharpening
You need the right tools to get a good edge. Different tools suit different needs and budgets.
The Sharpening Steel: Your Daily Tool
A sharpening steel (often mistakenly called a honing steel) is crucial. It is not for making a dull knife sharp. It is for aligning the edge.
How to Use a Sharpening Steel
Using the steel correctly is part of good sharpening steel use. Hold the steel tip down firmly on a cutting board. Hold the knife loosely in your other hand. The angle matters greatly here. Aim for the best angle for knife sharpening, which is usually 15 to 20 degrees for most kitchen knives.
- Place the heel of the blade against the top of the steel.
- Draw the blade down and across the steel in one smooth stroke. Keep that angle steady.
- Repeat this motion on the other side of the steel.
- Do 5 to 10 light strokes per side.
This simple action keeps the edge aligned between full sharpening sessions.
Whetstone Sharpening Guide: Mastering the Stone
For real edge restoration, you need a whetstone. This is the traditional and most effective method for achieving a razor sharp edge. Whetstones come in different grits, which tell you how coarse the stone is. Lower numbers mean coarser grit (more metal removal). Higher numbers mean finer grit (polishing).
Choosing the Right Whetstones
You usually need at least two stones: a coarse stone and a medium stone. Some experts use three for a perfect finish.
| Grit Number Range | Purpose | Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Coarse (120–800) | Heavy material removal | Restoring a dull knife edge or fixing chips. |
| Medium (1000–3000) | Primary sharpening | The main workhorse stone for general sharpening. |
| Fine (4000+) | Polishing and refining | Creating a very smooth, highly polished edge. |
A combination stone (e.g., 1000/6000 grit) is great for beginners.
Water Stone Sharpening Methods
Water stone sharpening methods require soaking the stone before use.
- Soak the Stone: Place your water stone in water until bubbles stop rising. This usually takes 5 to 10 minutes. Keep the surface wet while working.
- Establish the Angle: Place the knife flat on the stone. Lift the spine until you reach your desired angle (aim for 15–20 degrees). A helpful trick: imagine you are trying to shave off a very thin layer of the stone.
- Sharpening Stroke: Push the knife away from you across the stone, using moderate, even pressure. You are aiming to create a “burr.” A burr is a tiny wire edge that forms on the opposite side of the stone contact.
- Check for the Burr: Lightly feel the opposite side of the edge with your thumb (away from the sharp edge, of course!). If you feel a slight roughness, you have raised a burr. This means you have worked that side enough.
- Switch Sides: Flip the knife and repeat the strokes on the other side until you raise a burr on the first side.
- Move to Finer Grits: Once the edge feels consistent on the medium stone, switch to the finer stone (e.g., 3000 or 6000 grit). Repeat the process, using lighter pressure. This refines and polishes the edge.
Electric Knife Sharpener Review: Speed vs. Control
Electric sharpeners are fast and easy. They are great for quick touch-ups or for people who struggle with freehand angles. However, they remove metal quickly and require careful use.
Pros and Cons of Electric Sharpeners
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Very fast sharpening. | Can remove too much metal quickly. |
| Easy to maintain a consistent angle. | Often lack fine finishing stages. |
| Good for beginners to start with. | Can overheat the blade if used too long. |
If you choose an electric unit, look for one with multiple stages (coarse, medium, fine). Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. An electric knife sharpener review often shows that high-end models offer better control over the finished edge.
Oil Stones vs. Water Stones
While this guide focuses mostly on water stone sharpening methods, it is worth mentioning oil stones (Arkansas stones).
- Oil Stones: These use mineral oil as a lubricant. They are harder and wear down slower than water stones. They generally sharpen slower and polish less fine than water stones.
- Water Stones: These require water. They cut faster and are preferred for achieving the sharpest finish because they release abrasive particles easily.
Deciphering the Best Angle for Knife Sharpening
The angle at which you hold the knife against the abrasive surface is the single most important factor in sharpening. The wrong angle leads to a weak, quickly dulling edge, or no sharpness at all.
Common Angles for Kitchen Knives
Different knives require different angles based on their intended use and hardness.
- Western/German Knives (Softer Steel): These knives are usually thicker and more durable. They handle a slightly wider angle well, often between 18 and 22 degrees per side. This wider angle makes the edge tougher for heavy-duty chopping.
- Japanese Knives (Harder Steel): These blades are often thinner and rely on a very acute, steep angle for extreme sharpness. Angles typically range from 10 to 15 degrees per side. These edges are brittle and require gentler treatment.
Tip: If you have a standard chef’s knife, aim for 17 degrees. To visualize 17 degrees: hold the knife perpendicular (90 degrees) to the stone. Halve that to 45 degrees. Halve that again to about 22.5 degrees. Now, just drop it slightly below that point.
Angle Consistency is Crucial
Whether using a stone or an electric device, consistency is vital. If you alternate between 15 degrees on one stroke and 25 degrees on the next, you will create a rounded edge that will never be truly sharp. Many sharpening systems use angle guides to help novices maintain the correct angle mechanically.
Advanced Sharpening: Restoring a Dull Knife Edge
When a knife has been heavily used, neglected, or even chipped, you need to go beyond simple honing. You need aggressive material removal to reshape the edge geometry.
Dealing with Chips and Nicks
If your knife has a visible chip, you must remove metal until the chip is gone, even if it means grinding back several millimeters of the edge.
- Start Coarse: Mount your coarsest stone (e.g., 400 grit).
- Aggressive Grinding: Apply firm, steady pressure and focus your strokes directly on the damaged area. You must grind until the burr rolls over the entire length of the blade, signifying you have met the original edge angle.
- Assess: Once the chip is gone, inspect the edge. If it feels reasonably sharp, you can move up to the medium stone. If it is still rough, keep working the coarse stone.
This process is essential for restoring a dull knife edge that has suffered heavy impact.
Thinning the Blade Profile
Sometimes a knife isn’t dull—it’s just too thick behind the edge. This makes it wedge through food instead of slicing. This process, often called “de-bulking” or “thinning,” is more advanced. It involves grinding the upper part of the bevel (the main angled face of the blade) at a very shallow angle relative to the stone, just behind the cutting edge. This is usually reserved for seasoned sharpeners or done by a professional knife sharpening service.
The Final Polish: Achieving a Razor Sharp Edge
After the primary sharpening on medium stones (1000–3000 grit), you must polish the edge to remove the fine scratches left by the previous stone. This polish is what allows you to experience true sharpness.
Stropping: The Final Step
Stropping uses leather, wood, or specialized synthetic materials loaded with very fine abrasive compounds (often diamond or chromium oxide). Stropping does not sharpen in the traditional sense; it refines the edge to an incredibly smooth state.
- Apply Compound: Rub the leather strop with a very fine abrasive paste (e.g., 0.5 micron diamond paste).
- Stropping Motion: The motion is different from sharpening. You must pull the knife away from the edge (trailing edge) across the strop. Pushing into the strop can cut the leather.
- Light Pressure: Use extremely light pressure—imagine you are just trying to wipe dust off the blade.
- Alternate Sides: Do 10 to 20 strokes per side, alternating frequently.
This final step is what separates a “sharp” knife from one that can easily shave hair—it’s the key to achieving a razor sharp edge.
When to Use a Professional Knife Sharpening Service
Even with the best tools and knowledge, sometimes sending your knife out is the smartest option.
When Professional Service is Best
- Very Expensive or Rare Knives: If you own high-end Japanese knives (like Damascus steel) or vintage blades, a mistake can be costly. Professionals have specialized equipment to handle delicate steels.
- Major Damage: If a knife is severely chipped or bent, and you lack coarse stones, a pro can repair it quickly.
- Time Constraints: If you don’t have hours to spend learning the technique, a professional knife sharpening service can return your knives factory-sharp in days.
Professionals can often achieve finer angles or more consistent results on high-grit stones than most home cooks can manage consistently.
FAQ: Common Questions About Sharpening
How often should I hone my knives?
You should hone your knives every time you use them for an extended period, or whenever you notice the edge feeling slightly less keen during use. It’s a quick, daily maintenance task.
Can I use sandpaper instead of a whetstone?
Yes, you can use sandpaper glued to a very flat surface (like glass) as a substitute for whetstones in a pinch. You would use increasing grits of sandpaper (e.g., 600, 1200, 2000) just as you would stones. However, true whetstones are generally more durable and effective for long-term sharpening.
Will sharpening damage my knife?
Sharpening removes metal. If done incorrectly (wrong angle, too much pressure, or too frequently), it will wear the blade down faster than necessary. However, when done correctly using proper knife honing techniques and appropriate stones, the wear is minimal and extends the useful life of the knife.
What is a burr in sharpening?
A burr is a thin wire of metal that folds over the opposite side of the edge during sharpening. It confirms that you have successfully worked the entire thickness of the metal down to the edge on that side. If you cannot raise a burr, you are not hitting the correct angle or you are not using a stone coarse enough.
Is it better to use a pull stroke or a push stroke on a whetstone?
Both strokes are used. The push stroke (away from you) is often used to raise the burr initially because it feels more aggressive. The pull stroke (toward you) is often used for refinement and final passes. The most important thing is using both sides of the stone evenly to maintain symmetry on the blade.